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The Skagway News

Serving the Gateway to the Klondike since 1897

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Skaguay Alaskan 2023

Cover of Skaguay Alaskan 2023
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MOST RELIABLE NEWS SKAGUAY Look for the Cone at 5th & Broadway Open 10-9 Daily ICE CREAM & CANDIES Homemade Fudge 70 Chocolates & Candy Free Fudge Coupon page 6 SKAGWAY FISH CO. KING CRAB FISH & CHIPS Fresh Alaskan Seafood Friendly Atmosphere And the most STUNNING View in Town! 907-983-FISH HELICOPTER TOURS Dog sledding Flightseeing Glacier Landings Temsco Helico 907,983-290m BIKE TOURS AND RENTALS SEE SKAGWAY BY BIKE! H.æu-ly-LQgjIy-E2L!.g.I-Rg.tes 2 o Hybrid, road, mountain, & 2023 THE KLONDIKE DOUGHBOY ALASKAN FRY BREAD! ALASKA JAMS g JELLIES REINDEER SAUSAGE Located just off Broadway on 3rd Ave. BAR O GRILL . Where the Locals Eat! Serving Lunch & the Best Fish & Chips in Southeast, Alaska! 4th Avenue (907)983-2200 0 Happy Endings Ilome of Alaska's ISt Cornhole Arena! Corner of State St. 8 4th Ave. glacialcoffeehou•.com ALASKAN FREE Skagway staff be- friend, placate ghosts Three local businesses that coexist with their specters By Melinda Munson Skagway has a plethora of ghosts — perhaps it's the stark amount of violence and illness that sent many to early graves during the gold rush. Join The Skagway News for a brief tour of Skagway ghosts, with three stops. Lydia: The Red Onion's favorite prostitute Skagway's most famous ghost, Lydia, resides at Red Onion Saloon on Second and Broadway, a 10-minute walk from all three cruise ship berths. Stories of Lydia's footsteps, pranks and temper fill the restaurant/ brothel museum, built in 1897 and moved to its current location in 1914. Originally used as a dance hall and brothel, the restaurant walls are adorned with antique bed pans and vintage pictures of barely cov- ered bosoms. "Lydia is like a spiritual hum that is constantly here," explained Liz Lavoie, general manager and Red Onion employee since 2002. "I've never seen her physical form. It's a mojo, you know, it's an awareness that you're not alone." Many have heard Lydia's heeled footsteps upstairs in the brothel mu- seum when the second floor is empty. Some have actually seen the de- ceased sex worker, known in her day as a "soiled dove." Cori Giacom- azzi, Skagway resident since 2002 and Red Onion museum curator/ 336 3rd Avenue 4 E—bikes for rent I.Qus-DeægctjngDALly. Full-service bike shop 907-983-3223 907-983-2851 @ STH AVE. BETWEEN BROADWAY AND STATE WWW.SOCKEYECYCLE.COM REPONNSALOON BROTHEL MUSEUM TOURS O SIO for 20 minutes Tour times posted in window corner or 2'1 a Broadway Brothel Tour Today! WILD YUKON FURS 555B Broadway Tlingit owned and operated Visit us online at wildyukonfurs.com 83 Open DAILY 6 a.m. - 3 p.m. Serving breakfast & lunch. Fresh baked goods, organic espresso & fresh fruit smoothies. (Left on 3rd & Broadway) LEGAL CANNABIS ALASKA'S FIRST LICENSED MARIJUANA RETAIL STORE OPEN DAILY II a.m. -7 p.m 3073rd Ave REMEDY SHOPPE SKAGWAY,AK 33a WIDE SELECTION • PRE-ROLLS • VAPES EDIBLES • FLOWER • FULL LINE OF CBD REMEDYSHOPPE907.COM (90 612-1420•307 3RD AVE Subscribe to THE SKAGWAY NEWS SCAN ME skagwaynews.com Support local journalism costume designer, has witnessed Lydia's physical manifestation multiple times. "I don't tell people what she looks like," Giacomazzi said. "So that way, if they think they see her, they describe her. They can't fake it." Lydia demands respect, some- thing she didn't receive in her lifetime. Legend states Lyd- ia's face was branded after she contracted a sexually transmit- ted infection. She subsequently committed suicide — an act of desperation, perhaps better than starving. continued on page 3 SKAGWAY BREWING COMPANY 59a Halibut Fish & Chips, Alaskan Golden King Crab, Hand-Crafted Ales Skaguay Alaskan 2023 Published every summer. To advertise, contact [email protected] The Skagway News PO Box 244, Skagway, Alaska 99840 www.skagwaynews.com Copyrighte 2023 by Taiya Communications, LLC — Summer 2023, First Edition — SKAGUAY ALASKAN Klondike Gold Rush Park Programs............... P. 2 Skagway Facts Arctic Brotherhood Hall Visitor Center P. 6 Popular Hiking Trails — The Best View in City Services . WP&YR Train Guide . P 8 Skagway Visitor Attractions Chilkoot Trail Guide p. 11 Dyea History p. 12 Local Shopping Guide ......p. 13 The Corset Maker.... ..p.13 The First People... p. 14 The Dog Bus ...p. 14 Skagway Historical Timeline..... — p. 16-18 Peace and Laughter on Broadway...... ...p. 19 Golden Circle Adventure Racing . ..p. 19 Skagway Geographic Gems . p. 20 Fish This! . p. 21 Klondike Highway Log — ...P. 22-23 Map/Directory of Historic Skagway p. 24 Lodge. 92 Welcome 'l/iJiting ClhJ LODGE OPENS DAILY AT NOON CORNER OF STATE & 6TH ST. S UAY NEWS DEPOT- ALASKA BOOKS Maps - Mags News - Journals 3rd and Broadway Photo Cards across fronl AB Hall Totes & More Open all year • www.skagwaybooks.com 35

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SKAGUAY ALASKAN KLONDIKE COLD RUSH NATIONAL PARK SICHTS Page 2 Visitor Center and Museum: Open daily 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., the National Park visi- tor center and main park museum are located in the restored 1898 railroad depot at 2nd & Broadway with free admission and activities for all ages. Want to learn more about histo- ry's last great gold rush? Ranger presentations bring the events of 1898 to life through story- telling, photographs and scenic footage. The museum's interactive exhibits showcase gold rush era characters and their hardships and ad- ventures. Visitors can experience the journey by smelling sourdough and eulachon oil, step- ping into a muddy boot print on the trail and by "rafting" the Yukon River. Ask about up- coming programs and special events includ- ing guest speakers and performing artists. Moore Homestead: Open daily 9 a.m. to noon, I p.m. to 3 p.m., the historic Moore Homestead is located on 5th & Spring Street. The Moore Cabin and restored Moore House feature the story of Skagway's founding fami- ly and share the story of life in Skagway before and after the gold rush. The picturesque Moore Cabin is the oldest structure in Skagway. The Moore House is a free, fully furnished house and museum with exhibits depicting the life of an Alaskan pioneering family: Ben Moore, Klinget-sai-yet and their children. Victorian games will be offered outside the homestead daily from 11-11:30 a.m. Jeff Smith's Parlor Museum: Free tours are available daily at IO a.m., 10:15 a.m., 2 p.m., 2: 15 p.m., 4 p.m. and 4:15 p.m. Explore how gold rush outlaw Jeff "Soapy" Smith be- came a town legend and inspired a museum of curiosities, which is now one of the most un- SUMMER 2023 Photo by Melinda Munson Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Dancers from Haines and Klukwan performed outside of the National Park Service Moore Homestead. usual treasures of the National Park Service. The saga unfolds through gold rush artifacts, Martin Itjen's wacky creations and many de- cades of Skagway curiosities. Now restored to its 1960s glory, come see "the greatest attrac- tion in the world." Tours are free. Tickets are distributed on a first come, first served basis at the park visitor center on the day of the tour and tours start in front of Jeff Smith's Parlor Museum on Second Avenue. Trail Center: Open daily 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., the Trail Center is located on Broadway be- tween 5th & 6th Avenue. The Trail Center provides current trail conditions, maps and videos. Backcountry permits are issued here for the international Chilkoot Trail, the most famous trail in the North. *The U.S. side of the Chilkoot Trail is closed through August due to flooding damage. For more information about Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, visit: https:// www. nps.gov/klgo/index.htm, or call the park at (907) 983-9200. Welcome to Skagway How to locate our advertisers The Skaguay Alaskan is supported by the commercial en- tities of our city through advertising dollars. This allows the paper to be circulated free of charge by our newsies, under the watchful eyes of Melinda and Gretchen, who try to keep the paper to an historic 1898 format, hence no color adver- tising. It is also circulated on the ferries, the airport, SMART Bus and at various locations around Skagway, Alaska and the Yukon. To locate our advertisers, simply note the map key number in the ad, then find the establishment on the back map SKAGWAY MUSEUM OPEN DAILY • IN THE HISTORIC DISTRICT SEVENTH AND SPRING STREETS SMART BUS SERVICE TO THE MUSEUM page of the Alaskan. Alaska Liquor Store 290 Ave. Open Daily 9 a.m. - 11 p.m. Large Selection of Wine, Beer and Spirits 0 983-3888 O SMART Skagway Shuttle Bus Service All Cruise Ship Docks to Downtown 7:00 A.M. - 9:00 P.M. $3 per ride or $5 all day pass ADA Accessible Vehicles P"6Cic Radio for tac upper tynn CanaC News Explore Skagways unique history as the Gateway to the Yukon and interior Alaska in the McCabe College building, which served as a school, chapel, U.S. Court House, jail, and since 1961 , as City Hall and Skagway Museum. On Display • Haida Canoe • Cutter Sleigh • Bering Sea Kayaks • WWII history Klondike Gold Rush Supplies • Alaska Native Baskets • Beadwork • Cawings (907) 983-2420 [email protected]

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 3 Eerie shadows, sensations haunt businesses continued from page I "You have to acknowledge Lydia when you walk into the brothel " Giacomazzi said. "If you don't acknowledge her, she can make the rest of your day a little bit difficult. We have that big safe at the back door downstairs in the bar. An employee came in one morning trying to get the money out of the safe. And the damn thing wouldn 't open. And then she realized she forgot to say good morning to Lydia. And the minute she did, the safe opened ... she never forgot again." Red Onion employees show Lydia immense consideration. Lavoie said in the winter, when she's alone, she sings to the spirit and often speaks to her. Sometimes Lydia gets fan mail, particularly after a Red Onion documentary airs. Lavoie or Giacomazzi will read the mail out loud. Once a man sent Lydia a teddy bear as a comfort item. The two women left it upstairs in the brothel museum for Lydia to see. Occasionally, Lydia will become upset. Lavoie described a time the cook was playing loud music early in the morning. She and two other employees stood by the bar, considering how to ask him to Nuggets of information Population: Skagway has 1,240 residents according to the 2020 Census, although numbers generally fluctuate from about 800 in January to more than 2,500 in July with the influx of sum- mer workers. The largest minority, about 7% of residents, is His- panic or Latino. Native Alaskans of mostly Tlingit origin make up the second largest minority group at 5.5% of the population. Government: Skagway was the first incorporated city in Alas- ka on June 28, 1900, and remained that way until June 5, 2008, when it voted to become the state's initial first class borough, the Municipality of Skagway. The muni elects a mayor and six as- sembly members, with five community members serving on the school board. The borough collects property tax (7 mills at the highest), 5% sales tax (3% winter) and an 8% room tax. Skagway Traditional Council, a sovereign tribal government, has over 100 enrolled members, comprised mostly of Tlingit and Haida Alaska Natives. The council has been growing steadily since 1999. School: Skagway School has an enrollment of about 130 stu- dents in grades K-12. Test scores averaged the highest of any dis- trict in Alaska last year. Mascot: Panthers. Land/Elevation/Power: Skagway is in a classic U-shaped gla- Cial valley that is slowly "rebounding" by 1-2 inches a year. Ele- vation ranges from sea level on the coast to peaks reaching nearly 7 ,000 feet. The municipality stretches from the Canada border to the Haines Borough, encompassing 452.4 sq. miles of land and 11.9 sq. miles of water. Power comes from three nearby AP&T hydroelectric facilities. Climate: Average summer temperatures range from 45 to 67 F, although it occasionally reaches the 90s. On the summer solstice there are nearly 19 hours of daylight. Average winter temps are 18 to 37 F, but occasionally it will dip below zero. With a north wind, it can feel like 50-below. Skagway receives just 26 inches of rain a year and 39 inches of snow in town, although more than 20 feet can fall on White Pass each winter. Summer Visitation: In 2019 the borough welcomed 1.1 mil- lion cruise ship passengers. The next year, cruise ships did not enter the port due to COVID-19. In 2021, the town celebrated a tiny recovery with less than 100 ,000 cruise passengers. This year, expectations are for an estimated 1.1 million visitors. Economy/Values: Median household income, according to the 2020 Census, was $71 ,875 , with average per capita income of $41 ,842. About 3.8% live below poverty level. Largest employ- ers are the visitor and transportation industries and government. The largely seasonal economy gives Skagway the distinction of having one of the lowest unemployment rates in the state in sum- mer (2-3%) and one of the highest in winter (22-27%). Skagway is actively marketing its year-round port to attract more shippers from Yukon mines and boost winter employment. A copper mine currently uses the port. The Basics: In early May, the price of unleaded gas was about $5.50 a gallon, milk approached $8 a gallon and houses were list- ing at over $500,000. turn the volume down when suddenly, the iPod flipped off the shelf and disconnected from its cord. Seconds later, three jars of hot sauce were tipped off the bar counter, one by one. There are a handful of accounts of Lydia giving men slight pushes down the stairs. Former Red Onion Head Madame, "Madame Spitfire," outlined to NPR's podcast Snap Judgment: Spooked (S2 El 2), a time when a man was aggressive to his wife in the restaurant. Mysteriously, his chair flew out from under him and a boot print appeared on his shirt. Server Don Nelson told a more lighthearted tale. A woman was at lunch in the Red Onion's secluded upstairs room with two of her friends. When Nelson presented the bill, she recognized him from the night be- fore when the Red Onion hosted a strip show. She jokingly turned around and put cash behind her back for Nelson to take. He retrieved the mon- continued on page 4 Whale Watching • Juneau Tour • Eldred Rock Lighthouse • Glaciers Fjord ExpressT0Juneau DAY CRUISE PACKAGE FROM SKAGWAY OR HAINES $ 18912-hour, Round Trip Tour $165 TICKETS: online • Haines Fjordiines Office • Skagway Book co. 264 Broadway 1-800-320-0146 • www.alaskafjordlines.com ANNIVERSARY Presented by Gold Rush Productions Up to 4 Shows Daily BUY YOUR TICKETS NOW! 88 www.thedaysof98show.com Scan the QR Code for more info 6th & Broadway • 907-983-2545

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Page 4 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 Historic ghosts keep local businesses on playful edge continued from page 3 ey and watched the receipt on his tray mysteriously rise up and slip between the woman's fingers. "Oh my god, are you a magi- cian?" the friends asked. Nelson replied "yes" and ske- daddled. "I just took the credit for that. I had nothing to do with it," he said. How does the Red Onion staff react to tourists who don't believe in ghosts or are skeptical of Lydia? With respect of course. But most staff members leave space for the inexplicable. "I think it would be real hubris to think that because we haven't experienced it ourselves, it doesn 't exist. Clearly, we are all still learn- ing," Lavoie said. Young soul demands poetry: Skaguay Books Just across the street from the Red Onion is Skaguay News De- pot & Books, an establishment that houses a lesser known Skagway spirit. The historical building is leased from the National Park Service. The shop features artifacts from bygone days of old newspapers and printing. It peddles books unique to Alaska life such as preserving salmon and fictional murder mys- teries that take place in the Arctic. Denise Welch, sales associate for the bookstore since 2000, thought the store was haunted from almost the beginning of her tenure. "I suspected probably the sec- ond year that I was working here," Welch said. "It kind of felt differ- ent sometimes." While Welch "never felt anybody here, really," the problem was with moving books. Welch often played a CD the store stocked, Robert Service po- etry performed by local character, Buckwheat Donahue. "I got to noticing that if I didn't play the tape at least once a day, that books would fall off the shelf occasionally," Welch said. "And it always seemed to be a Robert Ser- vice Book. It just was one of those weird things that it never failed to be a Robert Service book." "I've moved bookshelves around since I've worked here. And no matter where the Robert Service books were, that was what fell," she added. Welch said the phenomenon con- tinued for five or six years, until the Park Service refurbished the wood floors around 2012. "After they redid all the floors, I never had books drop. It just doesn 't happen anymore," she said. According to Welch, during the goldrush the upstairs apartment aEXPLORESh'AGWA 0000 A DAY IN SKAGWAY ENJOY THE AUTHENTIC ALASKAN EXPERIENCE TUCKED IN THE BRIGHT GREEN VALLEY OF SHGAGWEI. WWW.SHAGWAY.COM was home to a family that had a young boy that was sick. She theorizes that like many in the time period, he didn't survive to adulthood. "Rumor is that he liked Robert Service's poetry," she said. Visitors can find a selection of Robert Service books at Skaguay News Depot. Reading a portion of his poems out loud certainly wouldn 't hurt the ambiance. The Ornery Days of '98 Ghost: Eagles Hall Three blocks farther north on Broadway and Sixth sits the Ea- gles Hall. It's home to The Days of '98 Show, the longest running theater production in Alaska (1923), and a more malignant spiritual presence. Built in 1899, the building smells of old wood and fresh popcorn. During show hours, the hall bustles with can-can danc- ers, catchy tunes belted across the stage and tourists leaning forward, eager to learn more about Soapy Smith, Skagway's most notorious bad guy. When the lights are turned off and visitors go home, there's a different feel. The wind assails the aged structure which creaks and groans as the velvet stage curtains sway, and the sounds from the nearby Eagles bar feel distant. This is the atmosphere where show co-owner Charity Pomeroy does most of her be- hind-the-scenes work. Pomeroy first appeared in Skagway in 2001 as a new cast member. She witnessed Jim Richards, former Days of '98 owner, habitually buying a shot of whiskey for the resident ghost. "I thought it was all hogwash," Pomeroy said. She rolled her eyes at the tradition, until she had her first experience with the entity. She was in the back of the empty dim theater, headed to the stage to reset her props for the next day, when she saw a migrating mass of darkness she couldn't explain. "I just looked at that upstairs corner of the backstage area and it was extremely black — like Vantablack — and then the blackness moved," Pomeroy said. "The blackness itself just slowly moved straight across the theater. And then I could see back in that [original] corner. It was still dark, but it wasn't pitch black. It was so bizarre. I stood there trying to figure out how is this happening, and what's hap- pening. I just felt all the weird, crazy, horrifying feelings when you can't explain something . It was enough that 20 years lat- er, it still makes me shake a little bit." Today, Pomeroy sometimes feels unsettled when she's alone in the upstairs office. She de- scribed a "bizarre sensation that comes out of nowhere." "I can be listening to an audio- book and all of a sudden I feel this pressure," Pomeroy said. "It always comes from the the- ater and it comes from the same direction. It feels like when you hold your hand up next to your head and you talk, and you can hear the difference. It feels like this crazy malevolent feeling of, 'Get out! ' It's not words. It's just a feeling. And it's terrifying." Pomeroy said that even though she pays rent for the Eagles Hall, when she feels this partic- ular sensation, she packs up and leaves. "I can't work through it," she said. One day last year, Pomeroy shut herself in the office to re- pair costumes. When she turned around, her arm loaded with costumes, the door to the the- ater was wide open. She put the materials down and closed the door again, this time witnessing the mechanisms click. When she walked into the dressing room, she heard the door fly open. She closed the door once more and commenced repairs. "I sat down, my sewing ma- chine faces that door," Pome- roy said. "It's right in front of it. And as soon as I sat down, once again, I swear to you, the doorknob moved and the door slammed open, BAM!" She hustled downstairs to check if it was windy outside, hoping that a draft could be blamed — and to seek out the safety of other hu- mans at the Eagles' social club. There was no wind. Pomeroy described The Days of '98 ghost as a "malevolent male presence." "We are not yet friends," she said. Pomeroy plans to purchase honorary whiskey shots this sea- son, in an attempt to smooth re- lations. Melinda Munson is co-owner of The Skagway News. PLEASE RECYCLE. 31 CONTACT SKAGWAY VISITORS CENTER [9071-983-2859

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SUMMER 2023 CELEBRATIING 41 YEARS Alaska Moose Magnet SKAGWAY _ SKAGUAY ALASKAN St. 98 Page 5 FAMILY OWNED, YEAR-ROUND Open Daily 9am-7pm Check out Skagway's best selection ofexclusively designed Fraser L. Mot;ntai" Cito Gold:Rush tiQnal Hiserit Park Ilhi River Show this ad to receive your Alas a Maynet! I per perso per ad/ per visit Only at Klothes Rush! *while supplies last. Limit I magnet perfamily/customer. E,Wres 10/31/2023 KioTÅis 71 ON TAVE Shop ONLINE year-round •www.klothesrush.com Levrs Souvenir T-Shirts! lint Texas Cute? Cute? also Featuring: • Alaska Apparel & Souveniers • Skagway's Largest Footwear Selection • Casual Clothing, Jewelry, Gifts, & More! On the CORNER of 5th & Broadway • 1-800-664-2370 • PO Box 211, Skagway, AK 99840 Look for the Cone at 485 Broadway Open Daily 10 am - 8 pm ICE CREAM & CANDIES FUDGE Made in Store Fresh Roasted Nuts 80 of Fresh Bulk candy I Buy 2 squares I get 1 FREE One per person. Expires 10/31/2023 SHOP on THE BEST SHOPPING in SKAGWAY! YEAR-ROUND, FAMILY OWNED Open Daily at loam on 5th Ave next to Grizzys General Store Getyour CHILK00T T-SHIRTS BACKCOUNTRY OUTFITTERS 73 Quality Outdoor Gear for Any Adventure! • OUTDOOR APPAREL & FOOTWEAR TENTS BACKPACKS • SLEEPING BAGS • LUGGAGE ELECTRONICS • CONVENIENCE • DRUG STORE Open 9am-9pm Daily • over-the-counter medications • ice cream, f'real, etc. ON 5THAVE OFF BROADWAY 5TH AVE SHOPPING CARDS HONORED HERE! GRizzLVS Home of we now carry Broadway Video Costco products Rental & Sales WE CARRY ALL YOUR ELECTRONIC NEEDS! • GRAB & GO FOOD • HEADPHONES & SPEAKERS • MEMORY CARDS • BATTERIES & CHARGERS .TOYS & CABLES ADAPTERS & MORE CAMPING SUPPLIES Shop the SALES LOFT Where there is ALWAYS a GREAT DEAL! Hydro Flask• (907)983-3562 www.duffsbackcountry.com S Skullcandy 5TH AVE SHOPPING CARDS HONORED HERE! RadioShack canon SONY. YOUR ONE-STOP SNACK SPOT! i FREE - BUY 1 GET 1 1 POPCORN F I Just for Coming in! Any Size Fountain Drink! I limit 1 per coupon Exp. 10/31/2023 1 Exp. 10/31/2023 74 GRIZZLYSGENERAL.c0M 907-983-3399

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Page 6 By Gretchen Wehmhoff The Skagway News Above the Skaguay News De- pot on Broadway is the Skagway News office. During the summer months, without the storm win- dows, the window sashes open tall enough for me to lean out to take in a view that stretches from the tall ships at the harbor all the way to the mountains in the north. There is something fitting about the office being upstairs in down- town. When I am there I feel like I'm almost in the middle of the action, which was certainly the case this Independence Day. Normally, I would walk around town with my camera and capture the day, but recent medical issues have me monitoring my activity. We were awakened by Jeff Brady's voice starting the Skag- way 5K Run-Around. After a cup of coffee, I pulled a chair up to the front window as the Kid- die Parade began. Someone said "go" and a group of 4-year-olds tore down the block leading the short parade. The rest of the pa- rade took a slower pace with wag- ons pulling teddy bears, scooters decked out in red, white and blue ribbons and costumes from fairies to bumble bees. One child sat in a wagon full of picture books read- ing "one more page" as her father towed her down the street. SKAGUAY ALASKAN The best view in town Thirty minutes later the main parade would start. I leaned out for a picture to- wards the port. Two ships tow- ered above the town and a White Pass & Yukon Route locomotive positioned itself across the street. The train whistle blew, the engine backed up and floats, vehicles and marchers crossed the tracks to- wards the crowd. Parade participants tossed can- dy to the children. The street, lined with locals, Yukoners and people from around the world came alive with energy. The police, border patrol, park service and fire de- partment had their rigs cleaned up. A large group of marchers wore black and carried signs in protest of the recent decision to overturn Roe v. Wade. That group seemed to get the most applause and women along the parade path stood up to clap. After the parade, chalk drawing started right below my window. More cute kids. The Red Onion's Pizza Toss be- gan just to the left of me with Deb Potter handling the competition and Reba Hylton dishing extra sauce on the pizzas. The crowd loved it — cheering and clapping when the dough was caught and letting out loud sighs if one hit the ground. The egg toss, an event that has earned Skagway an entry in the Guinness Book of World Records, was next. People stretched down Broad- way for blocks. Parents toss- ing with their kids, kids tossing with kids, strangers tossing with strangers. The line had to be one of the most international , yet casu- al games I've seen. Taking photos from the street last year was fun, but this view gave me a feel of the crowd. As eggs dropped and the line diminished, the crowd gath- ered around the last dozen or so teams. A few were experienced egg tossers who sent the eggs fly- ing high and far, again, with the crowd breathing cheers of relief and sighs of loss over broken eggs. SUMMER 2023 Some of the best views from the window are when things are finished. I think my favorite is watching dogs pull at their leash- es to lick up the egg from the street and the crows fighting over pizza crust. In a way, the animals were the first line of quiet Skagway street cleaners. The next morning the city's street cleaning machine finished off the job and the crows cawed their displeasure. Even now, there's a trace of chalk and a bit of egg to remind me of the energy outside the window on the street where Skagway plays. Gretchen Wehmhoffis co-owner of The Skagway News. The annual Skagway Independence Day egg-toss. Photo by Gretchen Wehmhoff Skagway Visitor Center At A.B. Hall Welcomes All Two Popular Hiking Trails Within Minutes of Downtown Dewey Lakes Trail System • Walk east on 3rd Ave. by the Westmark Inn until the railroad tracks. Trail begins on the other side of the tracks. Follow signs to Lower Dewey Lake (0.7 miles), Icy Lake (2.5 miles), Upper Reid Falls (3.5 miles), Stur- gill's Landing (4.5 miles), Upper Dewey Lake (3.5 miles), and the Devil's Punch Bowl (4.2 miles). The trail to Lower Dewey Lake and return is a pleasant hour's walk, though the switchback trail can be a bit steep in sections. Trails around the lake are fairly flat. Continuing north to Icy Lake and Reid Falls or south to Stur- A.B. Hall Skagway News archives Skagway's Visitor Information Center is located at Arctic Brotherhood Hall (Broadway between 2nd and 3rd). A unique building built in 1899 and covered in thousands of pieces of driftwood, the AB Hall Visitor Center is open daily, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pick up a Skagway Visitor Guide, walking tour map or trail map to explore all that Skagway has to offer. Friendly and helpful staff is on hand to answer any questions. Watch for special programs and displays in the main hall. Visit www.skagway.com for community infor- mation and utilize the messenger feature to get questions answered by a local. gill 's (an old wood camp by the bay) will add 2-3 hours. Camping and picnic sites abound. The hike to Upper Dewey Lake and Devil's Punch Bowl is much steeper, great for a day hike or overnight trip. The cabin at Upper Lake may be booked at skagwayrecreation. mg. Lakes are stocked with trout. Skyline Trail to AB Mountain • Trail begins at Mile 3 on the Dyea Road and as- cends AB Mountain. Allow at least five hours round trip for this often strenuous hike. Beautiful views of Skagway, Dyea, Lynn Ca- nal, Haines and Chilkat Range. For detailed information about these and other more remote trails, pick up a Skag- way Trail Map/Brochure at the A.B. Hall or Klondike Gold Rush NHP visitor centers in downtown Skagway. 11 i SCAN ME This QR Code takes you to the Skagway Trail Map PDF where you will see several local trails of varying difficulty from easy to strenuous.

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN City Services Guide Page 7 PHONES: Skagway has good cell service in town but reception is spotty on the Dyea Road and cuts out a mile up the Klondike Highway. There is service in all Yukon towns. See page 18 for Wi-Fi map. PUBLIC RESTROOMS: Located on Congress way Sea walk, Shore- line Park, at National Park Service and AB Hall Visitor Centers, Mascot Saloon, Mollie Walsh Park, Pullen Park, Skagway Bazaar, ferry terminal and Small Boat Harbor parking lot. MEDICAL/CLINIC: Skagway's Dahl Memorial Clinic is located at the Rasmuson Health Center at 14th and Broadway, 907-983-2255. Clinic is open weekdays, 8 a.m. to 5p.m. For after-hours medical emergencies call 911 , or contact the on-duty provider by calling dispatch at 907-983-2232. POLICE: Phone 911 for emergency or 907-983-2232 for business. Locat- ed in Public Safety Building, 18th and State. FIRE/AMBULANCE: Phone 911 for emergency or 907-983-2300 for business. Located in Public Safety Building 18th and State. COUNSELING: Counseling services are located on the west side of the Rasmuson Health Center at 14th and State. Call 907-983-2255. SKAGWAY CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU: Headquartered on Broadway in the Arctic Brotherhood Hall. Address correspondence to Tourism Director, P.O. Box 1029, Skagway, AK 99840; phone 907-983- 2854; email: [email protected]; website: www.skagway.com SKAGWAY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: Phone 907-983-1898; P.O. Box 194, Skagway, AK 99840; [email protected]: www. skagwaychamber.org KLONDIKE GOLD RUSH NATIONAL PARK: Located at 2nd & Broadway. Visitor Center open daily, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. in the summer. Call 907-983-2921 or write for brochure: P.O. Box 517, Skagway, AK 99840; www.nps.gov/klgo. SKAGWAY TRADITIONAL COUNCIL: Office in Tribal Community Center on Broadway and I I th. Phone 907-983-3615, website: www.skag- waytraditional.org NEWS: The Skagway News is published online twice monthly. Visit www.skagwaynews.com, call 907-983-2354 or write to P.O. Box 244, Skagway AK 99840-0498. RADIO/TV: KHNS-FM: 91.9 FM, public radio for Haines-Skagway, also available online at www.khns.org; KIN Y-FM: 104.7 FM radio, Ju- neau; TV: 1 public, 35 cable channels, hundreds more via satellite dish. SKAGWAY PUBLIC LIBRARY: located at 8th and State. open week- days, IO a.m. to 7 p.m., weekends, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. Watch for special programs. Wi-fi is available outside of the library daily from IO a.m. to IO P.m. ASSEMBLY OF GOD Church: Located at 8th and State. Sunday morn- ing service at 11 a.m. Call 907-983-2350. CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER DAY SAINTS: Located at 11th and State. Sunday Sacrament Meeting at 10 a.m. Call 1-867-332- 1299. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH: Located at 5th and Main. Sunday Service at 1 1 a.m., www.fpcskagway.org. Call 907-983-2260. ST. THERESE CATHOLIC CHURCH: Located at 9th and State. Mass celebrated on Sundays at 4 p.m. and 7 p.m., and Mondays and Tuesdays at 12:10 p.m. Call 907-983-2271. B.P.O.E. ELKS LODGE #431: Located at 6th and State. Meets second and fourth Thursdays at 7:30 p.m. Club room open for members at noon on weekdays and I I a.m. on weekends. Emblem Club #1 II meets third Thursday at 7 p.m. Call 907-983-2235. F.O.E. EAGLES AERIE & AUXILIARY #25: Located at 6th & Broad- way. Aerie meets first and third Wednesday at 7:30 p.m. Auxiliary meets second and fourth Tuesdays at 7 p.m. Club room open daily for members at 11 a.m. Call 907-983-2234. WHITE PASS LODGE #1 F.&A.M.: Located on 4th near Broadway. Meets first Saturdays at 12 p.m. Call 907-612-0025. z ALASKA COMMERCIALCO. Serving Alaskans Since 1867 • SERVING ALASKA • 1861 Classic Doritos nACHO CHEESE iNERG Welcome to Skagway! AC Fairway Market is your one-stop shop for groceries, drinks, snacks, health and beauty products. utc Colgate AC Fairway Market, 53 Hours of Operation: Monday- Friday 8:00 AM - 8:00 PM Saturday-Sunday 9:00 AM - 8:OOPM 377 State st, Skagway, AK 99840 PANTENE DEEP CLEAN

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Page 8 SKAGUAY ALASKAN WP&YR TRAIN GUIDE By Steve Hites The map of the railroad shows general characteristics of the route from Skagway to Bennett. Use the numbers to follow points of interest along the way. For further informa- tion about your location, railroad milepost markers are set up alongside the tracks at window height and are placed exactly one mile apart. Stations and points of interest also are marked with signs. Now that you're set, enjoy your ride on the "Scenic Railway of the World." 1 (Mile 0) • White Pass co. Wharf/Broad- way Cruise Ship Dock/Ore Dock. The "Sum- mit Excursion" departs from these docks and the WP&YR depot daily during the summer. Newsies in 1898 costumes usually greet the ships and give the train a send-off. Look for restored Steam Engines No. 73 and 69, which pull some trains from the docks to town, or takes special steam excursions to Bennett and Fraser. Diesel engines will take most trains up the mountain. 2 (Mile 0.3) • Skagway, Alaska, USA / White Pass Depot. "Gateway to the Klond- ike." A city of 10-20,000 in 1898, Skagway's downtown Historic District retains the flavor of the era. On 2nd Avenue stand the new and old White Pass depots. The new one serves as a company office and passenger terminal. Trains heading to Fraser, Bennett and Carcross leave from here. The old depot was restored by the National Park Service and serves as the Visitor Center and headquarters for Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. 3 (Mile 0.5) • Pullen House Grounds. One time "Best Hotel in Alaska," run by the plucky Harriet Pullen who owned packhorses on the White Pass Trail in '98. President Warren G. Harding gave a brief speech here on his Alas- kan tour of 1923. Mrs. Pullen's grave rests above the tracks on the hillside. 4 (Mile 2.0) • White Pass Shops. All nar- row gauge repairs and maintenance of engines and rolling stock are done here. New metal shops building replaced old roundhouse de- stroyed in the fire of 1969. Older buildings were constructed by the U .S. Army during its World War II operation of the railroad. 5 (Mile 2.5) • Gold Rush Cemetery. Out- law Soapy Smith and town hero Frank Reid, who shot it out in '98, are buried here along with many other stampeders and early day residents. A quick eye will catch the "Largest Gold Nugget in the World" chained to a tree for protection from thieves by early tourist promoter Martin Itjen. 6 (Mile 5.8) • 5A Bridge & Denver Glacier Trail. A favorite local hike for many years, U .S. Forest Service trail leads three miles to an old hunting cabin and then to the bottom of the receding glacier. The caboose serves as a U .S. Forest Service cabin. Railroad crosses East Fork of Skagway River. 7 (Mile 6.9) • Rocky Point. An excellent view down the lower valley to Skagway. The town, wharfs and ships tied in port can be seen in the distance with Mt. Harding and Hard- ing Glacier forming a dramatic backdrop. The Brackett Wagon Road of '98 crossed the rail- road in the narrow cut at Milepost 7. 8 (Mile 8.6) • Clifton. Passing siding and section shack. A section gang lived in a two-story building here for many years. Name derived from large rock ledge overhanging the north switch. Sign below tracks identifies Brackett Road. The "On to Alaska with Bu- chanan" sign on the far wall of the canyon was painted by a Buchanan Boys tour group from Cleveland, which operated in the late 1920s and 1930s. Highway skirts the canyon above the rock. 9 (Mile 9.0) • 9A Bridge & Pitchfork Falls. Easy to miss unless you're quick with a camera pointing toward the mountainside. A landmark on the Trail of '98, the falls were once an excursion stopping place. 10 (Mile 10.4) • Black Cross Rock. During blasting of the right-of-way on August 3, 1898, a 100-ton granite slab buried two rail- road workmen. The cross was set on the rock to mark the site, a memorial to the more than 30 men killed during construction of the WP&YR. 11 (Mile 11.5) • Bridal Veil Falls. Across the valley, several dozen cataracts can be seen in peak runoff season. The water comes down off the Mt. Cleveland glaciers, goes under the highway, and tumbles down to the Skagway River. 12 (Mile 11.5) • White Pass City. Below sprang a gold rush tent town on the White Pass Trail in '98. Other views of the town site, now covered by brush, can be had from the "High Line." 13 (Mile 12.8) • High Line View. Several good breaks in the trees afford views of the 15 Mile High Line on the opposite mountain- side. Michael Heney, WP&YR construction contractor in '98, called this the "weak link" in the survey route. Blasting out the narrow roadbed required men hanging from ropes off the smooth rock faces, and his grade crossed many wintertime snow slide chutes. Rotary snowplows kept the line open year-round in the age of steam. Now bulldozers, with help from Rotary , perform the annual snow re- moval ritual each spring. 14 (Mile 14.1) • Glacier Station. Passing siding and site of former section house. Once two water tanks quenched the thirsts of steam engines on the uphill trains here, spaced so as to water a lead locomotive and the "helper" engine at the same time. A U .S. Forest Service hiking trail by the south end of 14A Bridge winds up to Laughton Glacier, where a NFS cabin offers overnight shelter. To reserve the cabin see park rangers at the Visitor Center. Tickets can be purchased for Glacier, but re- member to let the conductor know to stop the train. 15 (Mile 15.0) • Glacier Loop High Line. Enjoy the sensation of "flying by train." View back to Glacier and the tracks below. Look for moose that sometimes feed in the valley. The track here was blasted across solid granite fac- es. 16 (Mile 16.0) • Isc Trestle & Old Tun- nel. The engineer sounds his whistle to alert passengers to one of the high-point views of the trip. The railroad spans across "Glacier Gorge," a yawning chasm in the cliffside, and then buries into Tunnel Mountain. With all the obstacles in the way, the 1898 construction re- quired only this one tunnel. 17 (Mile 17.0) • Inspiration Point. Have your cameras ready! A lofty look at the Pacific Ocean. On a clear day the unparalleled view SUMMER 2023 sweeps down to Skagway, with Mt. Harding showing across the bay, and the distant Chilk- at Range beyond Haines, some 45 miles away. Excursions in the steam era stopped here for photos and to read the plaque on the monu- ment at trackside dedicated to the 3,000 pack animals that died in the mad stampede of '98. The plaque has been relocated to the depot. 18 (Mile 18.6) • Steel Bridge. When con- structed in 1901, this bridge was the tallest steel cantilever in the world. It replaced a dizzying switchback, which had been neces- sitated by the depths of Cutoff Canyon; trains had to head up the gorge and then back uphill across a timber trestle to the summit. 19 (Mile 18.8) • 19A Bridgermnel & Trail of '98. New locomotives and heavier tonnage brought about the new bridge and tunnel in 1969. Excellent photo opportuni- ty of train on "horseshoe" curve across the bridge and entering tunnel. Be ready as the train emerges into daylight for a view down the upper reaches of Dead Horse Gulch on the Trail of '98. As the track curves out of 19 Tun- nel, travelers can peer over the cliff side at the visible remains of the White Pass Trail. Pri- marily a route for horses and pack trains, the Skagway trail competed against the Chilkoot Trail from Dyea to Lake Bennett in 1897-98. A sign marks the trail and several bleached horse skulls offer mute testimony to the hard- ships of the stampede. 20 (Mile 20.4) • White Pass Summit/ln- ternational Boundary/Summit Lake. A narrow notch brings the railroad up to White Pass, elevation 2,865 feet above sea level and Skagway. Two flags fly during the summer on a rise to the west to mark the boundary be- tween the United States' Alaska and Canada's British Columbia. White Pass station once boasted a detachment of North West Mounted Police sent to "show the flag" and hold the line on their rule that each stampeder have a ton of gear and supplies before entering the country enough to live unaided in the North for a year. A sliver of B.C. divides Alaska and the Yukon at the top of Southeastern Alaska. The continued on page II

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN CELEBRATING 125 YEARS OF HISTORY ABOARD THE SCENIC RAILWAY OF THE WORLD. BE A PART OF HISTORY' Page 9 O Wfieiäss}alhrba-a.s wpyr.com 1-800-343-7373 DEPOT GATEWAY THE YLJXON las YEARS Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites from the comfort of vintage rail cars. Visit the downtown Skagway Depot located on 2nd Ave for excursion timing and tickets. Explore our - Train Shoppe for a large selection of WP&YR memorabilia, exclusive gifts and souvenirs Tickets available on 2nd Ave at the downtown White Pass Depot. THE TRAIN SHOPPE Be Sure to Visit The Train Shoppe for: Hats • DVDs • Clothing • Coffee • Books • Artwork • Train Models • Rail Spikes • Kitchenware • Jackets • Calendars 1-800-343-7373 22

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Page 10 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 SO MANY GREAT SICHTS IN A SMALL ALASKA TOWN Use the map on back page to help find these attractions. MUSEUMS & EXHIBITS Corrington Museum of Alaskan History This museum, located at 3rd and Broadway, adjacent to the old Golden North Hotel, tells the history of Alaska from pre-historic times to the present. More than 40 engraved wal- rus tusks and other exhibits detail events that shaped the evolution of the 49th state. Alaska 360's Dredge Town Located along the river about a quarter-mile after crossing the bridge, this attraction features a reassembled gold dredge that worked the Sixtymile District near Dawson City. It first arrived in the north in Skagway in 1941 and was transported on the railroad and steamers to the Klondike. It returned to its home port of Skagway in 1999- 2000. Dredge Town will transport you back to the days of 1898 with costumed guides. There's a sled dog demonstration with time to interact with dogs and puppies, gold panning, a 40-below Zero Experience, a restaurant and gift shop. McCabe Building — Skagway Museum and Archives Located at the east end of 7th Avenue, this granite building was constructed in 1899-1900 as a Methodist college-prepara- tory school and was later sold to the federal government in 1901 when legislation provid- ed public schools for Alaska. It served as the U.S. Court House until obtained by the city for a museum and offices in 1956. The U.S. Marshal's office, the U .S. Commissioner's of- fice and the jail occupied the first floor. Dis- trict Court was held on the second floor in the former chapel of McCabe College. In 2000, the City of Skagway celebrated its centennial at the McCabe Building, which has served as City Hall and Skagway Museum since 1961. After a two-year renovation project, the mu- seum moved back into the first floor and city offices into the second floor. Across Spring Street is Veterans Memorial Park with a World War II Quonset hut and a monument dedicated to Skagway servicemen who lost their lives in World War II and the Korean War. Nearby on the 7th Avenue boardwalks are a Gold Rush Diorama and information panels on the Gar- den City of Alaska and Alaska Native culture. Across Pullen Creek on a trail leading south to 6th Avenue is a panel about the old Pullen House, a grand early hotel with nothing left in the woods but its stone fireplace and chimney. SS Princess Sophia Exhibit New in 2018 at the Skagway Museum, this exhibit tells the story of the SS Princess Sophia, which left Skagway on Oct. 23, 1918 and then struck Vanderbilt Reef in a storm early the next morn- ing. It was hoped the ship would float free, but the storm prevented any rescue and she broke apart and sank on Oct. 25. All 350-plus souls aboard, save a dog that swam ashore, perished, making it the worst marine disaster in the Pa- cific Northwest. Skagway Public Library On 8th and State, read about the library's history from its orga- nization through the Skagway Women's Club to present day. Old Skagway newspapers are available to peruse. Rotating displays in the glass case in entryway. Skagway Centennial Park Located at 1st A visiting drag show performs at Dedman Stage in Seven Pastures in 2021. Photo by Gretchen Wehmhoff and Broadway, this park features the city's centennial statue of a Tlingit packer leading a prospector up the trail in 1897 , Rotary Snow- plow #1 , a time capsule, monuments, orienta- tion signs, covered waiting area, water foun- tain, benches and native plants. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Visitor Center at 2nd and Broadway Pullen Creek Park & Stream Walk Park between the small boat harbor and the railroad depot for a sweet area to picnic and fish. King salmon run begins in late May, followed by pinks in August and silvers in September. A stream walk follows the creek. At one time the school managed a hatchery on the creek, and it was even named Alaska Vocational Educa- tion Program of the Year in 1989. Footbridge to Yakutania Point & Smug- glees Cove Located south of the airport ter- minal (see map), the bridge spans across the Skagway River to waterfront trails with out- standing views, an exercise course, picnic spots and the cherished Pet Cemetery. Mollie Walsh Park Located at the east end of 6th Avenue, this play park was named for a woman who befriended miners on the trail at Log Cabin. Ex-Iover Jack Newman placed a bust here after Mollie left with another man and met an untimely death. Gold Rush Cemetery & Reid Falls About 1.5 miles from the Historic District, head north on State Street. Look for a sign just be- fore the bridge. Follow signs a half-mile past the railroad shops to the graveyard. A ceme- tery guidebook can be purchased a the local bookstore, which tells the history of the ceme- tery and some of the characters buried therein, including desperado Soapy Smith and town hero Frank Reid. The falls, named for Reid, are a short walk up the hill. Seven Pastures Park Located just across the Skagway River highway bridge and also reached by the Pat Moore memorial foot- bridge, this large park features two softball fields, a soccer field, a disc golf course, bike- cross area, picnic grounds and Dedman Stage that opened in 2015. Watch for signs about music acts at this outdoor facility. Skagway Overlook This turnoff and plat- form, located at Mile 2 on Dyea Road, af- fords a wonderful view of the downtown area, waterfront and peaks above Skagway. It was originally built by the U .S. Army during World War 11. Dyea Unit - Klondike NHP The Dyea val- ley is accessed by an 8-mile mostly gravel road from Skagway. Turnoff is at Mile 2.1 on the highway. Narrow Dyea road is not recom- mended for long or wide vehicles. It passes a turnoff to Yakutania Point (Mile 3) and swings around Nahku or Long Bay (Mile 5), home of the remains of the bark "Canada" (seen at very low tides), and then winds around the point to the old townsite. Dyea was as large as Skag- way during the gold rush, but all that's left now is a cemetery and the scattered remains of a wharf and buildings in the old townsite (see Dyea article page 12). Favorite stops are the Chilkoot Trailhead, Dyea Flats and Slide Cemetery, where 40 graves bear the date of the Palm Sunday ava- lanche on the Chilkoot Trail in 1898. If continuing on the road out to Dyea Flats, stay on marked roadways. There is an infor- mation kiosk about the flats environment with photos of what the area looked like during the gold rush. The Municipality of Skagway con- trols most of the flats from the trees to tidewater. There is a small campground in the trees with a self-registration kiosk. Stay in numbered sites.

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SUMMER 2023 WP&YR TRAIN GUIDE Yukon is about 25 miles down the tracks on Lake Bennett. The end of the line is 90 miles away in downtown Whitehorse along- side the Yukon River. The Sum- mit Excursion turns around here at White Pass the engines will switch to the back of the train and then take passengers back down the mountain. The train to Fraser keeps going. To the west of the railroad is Summit Lake, one of a series of headwater lakes in the Yukon River system. 21 (Mile 23.0) • "Top of the World". Stunted trees, glacial boulder fields and pothole lakes contrast with lush forests on the coast only a few miles away. In winter the White Pass Summit country can be a raging hell or a scene out of "Dr. Zhivago" with vistas of white peaks and valleys. Excellent cross-country skiing. 22 (Mile 28.0) • Fraser, B.C. Long a water stop for the rotary fleet battling the pass, Fraser had a balloon loop track in the mead- ow south of Bernard Lake, and engines and plows were turned here. The old two-story water tank building remains, the last such structure on the railroad. Canadian Customs and a Yukon Highways maintenance facility appear to the west. This is the bus SKAGUAY ALASKAN CONTINUED PROM PAGE 9 transfer point either the begin- ning or the end of the rail portion of your journey between Skag- way and Whitehorse. 23 (Mile 30.5) • Portage. Sev- eral fishing cabins and "boxcar homes" line the stream between two lakes. Famous view east- ward toward Teepee Valley and distant lakes as you ascend Log Cabin Hill. Gold discovered on Lake Atlin in '98 caused a major construction shutdown when rail workers left en mass for the new diggings, taking most of the com- pany's picks and shovels. Most returned upon discovering the claims were already staked out. 24 (Mile 32.0) • Log Cabin. Tracks cross the Klondike High- way at site of Log Cabin, a tent city in '98 and Mounted Police Customs house. At one time a substantial depot and section house were here, but now only two small sheds remain at the south siding, which is the highest point on the railroad at 2,916 feet above sea level. There's no log cabin. Chilkoot Trail hikers walk eight miles up the tracks to Log Cabin from Lake Bennett to catch a ride. 25 (Mile 34.0) • Thirty-Four Flats. Meadows here are large and populated with beaver on the north end and occasionally by wandering caribou or moose. If you don't see an animal, remem- ber they aren't usually about at the height of the day. 26 (Mile 36.5) • Beaver Lake. Beaver lodges can be observed at the lake's edge. Tracks begin high above the lake and drop to lakeside at the north end. Visible at Mile 39.0 is Lake Lindeman. A tent city of 10,000 camped here during the gold rush, but the rapids to Lake Bennett wrecked many hastily built boats. 27 (Mile 40.6) • Bennett. The winter of '97-'98 found 30,000 stampeders camped here on the shores of the lake, named after New York Herald editor James Gordon Bennett. The ice broke on May 26, 1898, and 7,000 home- made boats set sail down the lake to float down the Yukon to Daw- son City. The railroad arrived in June of '99, and after construct- ing permanent facilities, operated a station/eating house until 1982. The old depot still stands, as does the old Bennett Church on the hill above the lake. Trails lead to the church, campsites and old graveyard. This area is now part of Canada's new Chilkoot Trail National Park. The trail ends here. For highlights along the route Page II between Bennett and Carcross, consult the "All Aboard" train guide on your rail excursion. While braking on the WP&YR in the 1970s, local balladeer and historian Steve Hites scribbled this train guide. He has written and recorded many songs about the North and has entertained thousands. Steve also operates the Skagway Street Car Tour. The Alaskan makes a great souvenir. If you don't take it home with you, PLEASE PASS IT ON OR RECYCLE. Dispatches from the Chilkoot Trail - World's Longest Museum "The eye catches the movement. The mountain is alive. There is a continuous moving train; they are perceptible only by their movement, just as ants are.... They are human beings, but never did men look so small." — Tappan Adney, reporting for Harper 's Weekly, September 1897 University of Washington photo By Jeff Brady The above description by our gold rush col- league more than a century ago paints the im- age that he saw as he approached the Scales, looking up to the summit of the Chilkoot Pass. The long line of some 40,000 men and wom- en, captured in many photographs, continued for another year. The history of that incredible journey is pre- served today by the park services of the Unit- ed States and Canada. One can still hike the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, which begins at Dyea and ends at Lake Bennett. Hiking the Chilkoot is something the former editor of this sheet does at least once every five years to "help bring Skagway back into its historical perspective, and to preserve the sanity." And believe it, the latter is a tall order. The trail is not only good therapy an escape from the hustle and bustle of the Skagway metropolis it's an enriching experience that perfectly blends history and beautiful scenery. The Chilkoot, selected as Alaska's first U .S. Millennium Trail, is a museum of the Klond- ike Gold Rush. And like most museums, one is allowed to observe, but not touch. If caught taking an artifact, the penalties are stiff. But what's different about this museum is how participants go through it - retracing histo- ry with a heavy pack on their backs. The best way is to plan ahead, be prepared and take it slow. Trail information can be secured at the Chilkoot Trail Center in the restored Boss Bakery Building on Broadway between 5th and 6th. It is open daily 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Those hiking the entire trail must obtain a backcoun- try permit and pay a registration fee and res- ervation fee. For permit pricing information, stop by the Trail Center or call 1-800-661- 0486 for reservations. Local shuttles can pick up hikers by the Trail Center and drive them over the nine-mile road to Dyea (best to travel in a group to save money). The trailhead is to the right, just be- fore the road crosses the Taiya River bridge. The trail is well-maintained and historical photograph trail markers help interested par- ties compare the views of 1897-98 with the ones seen today. When undertaking an inaugural Chilkoot, it's best to take four to five days and absorb it all. This hiking correspondent, a veteran of more than a dozen Chilkoot missions, recom- mends camping stops at Finnegan's Point or Canyon City (glacier views, shelter and ru- ins), Sheep Camp (shelter, ruins and ghosts), Happy Camp (cooking shelter and sharing summit stories) and Bare Loon Lake (swim- ming) on the first trip. For a faster three-day hike, plan camping stops at Pleasant Camp (nice tent sites), Happy Camp or Deep Lake (good water and berry picking) and either Lin- deman (shelters and tent museum) or Bennett (old church, depot and interpretive exhibits). Don't miss the little tent museum at Linde- man. Inside, visitors will receive a certificate naming them as one of the 2,000 or more who hiked the Chilkoot this year. At trail's end, adventurers will have sore feet and a need for a shower. But the discom- fort is worth it, and hikers will probably want to do the Chilkoot again some time, and take along more friends. And if they're made of the same stuff as this retired editor, they may keep coming back until they have their ton of gear packed over the pass. Due to weather damage, the U.S. side of the Chilkoot Trail is closed through August. Jeff Brady is an author/historian, editor/publisher and bookstore owner who writes from Dyea. .11 i The most vivid image of the Klondike Gold Rush was this never-ending line of men and women hauling their year S supply of goods up and over the summit of the Chilkoot Pass. This hike is just a strenuous today, but you only have to carry what you need for a few days. — University of Washington

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Page 12 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 DYEA HISTORIC BOOMTOWN NOW A PLACE op BEAUTY Skagway bustles today in the summer like the boomtown it was in 1897-1898, but a few miles away, and a couple of valleys over to the northwest, lies a place that local residents and visitors cherish for its quiet beauty. This place is Dyea (pronounced Di-eee) and for a short time it was just as big and booming as old Skagway. Dyea's history as a settlement actually is much older than its rival gold rush city. At the foot of the Chilkoot Trail, Dyea was estab- lished several centuries ago as a summer camp by the Tlingit from more populated villages down the inlet near present-day Haines. These Chilkoots built the trail over the mountains to facilitate trade with Yukon and Alaska interior First Nations tribes. Dyea and Taiya are real- ly the same word (Deiyaa) in the Tlingit lan- guage, meaning "to pack." The Tlingit's camp on the Taiya saw its first visitors from afar after the United States pur- chased Alaska in 1867. The U.S. Navy had exerted control in the area and convinced the Tlingit to allow others over the Chilkoot Pass. George Holt was the first documented white man to cross it in 1874, and Alaska Natives began a commercial packing operation a few years later. Westerners John J. Healy and Ed- gar Wilson established a trading post on the site in 1884, while other coastal and interior tribes vied for control of the trade. It culmi- nated in a Native packers battle in 1888 that resulted in the deaths of two chiefs and a truce of sorts. More and more white people kept crossing over the next decade. Dyea had a post office by 1896, the year Tagish trader and frequent Dyea visitor Skoo- kum Jim discovered the Klondike gold 600 miles from here. Nearly a year later, in July 1897, the first ships of stampeders arrived, and a city of IO ,OOO went up among the spruce and hemlock forest at the edge of a long tidal flat, connected by two mile-long wharves to the ships in the inlet. During its yearlong heyday, Dyea boasted 150 businesses, including 19 freighting com- panies, 48 hotels, 47 restaurants, seven real estate agents and two newspapers. Taverns outnumbered churches 39 to I. But as quickly as it boomed, Dyea suddenly dwindled and almost disappeared. Two events played into its doom: an avalanche on the Chilkoot Trail in April 1898 that killed more than 60 stampeders, and the start of construc- tion of the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad out of Skagway in May of that year. Dyea had boasted its own tramline and a future railroad of its own, but in 1899 the WP&YR owners bought it and shut it down. Business owners from Dyea flocked to Skagway, taking many of their buildings with them, and by 1900 the city of 10,000 was a mere village again of 250. Three years later, there were just six people living in the Dyea valley. Dyea did not go away. Original homestead- ers Emil Klatt and William Matthews lived and worked there, and Harriet Pullen ran a dairy farm in the valley for her hotel in Skagway for many years. A few braved the Chilkoot Trail, even scouting it for a film in the 1920s. But what was left of the old gold rush buildings gradually crumbled into busted foundations by the middle of the century. Dyea became a destination again after the valley was connected by an eight-mile-long coastal road from Skagway in 1947. It became a favorite recreation area for local residents, and a few more residents built cabins there. The tourists came too. In the late 1970s, much of the Taiya River valley was absorbed into the Dyea-ChiIkoot Unit of the new Klondike Gold Rush Nation- al Historical Park. The historic trail was re- stored, as were some of the trails through the woods where the Dyea town site once stood. Today, visitors can take a walking tour through the old town site and to the Slide Cemetery, where many of the 1898 avalanche victims were buried. There also are a limited number of commercial tours operating in the valley, but for the most part Dyea is there for the independent traveler to explore and photo- graph. Wild irises bloom in mid-June on the Dyea Tide Flats, and fireweed join them in July and August. Currants and cranberries are found as well, when in season, and blueberries at high- er elevations on the Chilkoot and Lost Lake trails or up West Creek Road (remote old log- ging road, 4WD vehicles only). Birding is very popular on the Flats, espe- cially when the eulachon (pronounced hooli- gan, a tiny smelt) run in the Taiya in May and during the arrival of pink salmon in Nelson's Slough and other valley streams in August. Eagles, great blue heron and other birds seek 3 the spawning fish along with the occasional grizzly and black bear. Observe bears from a distance and pack bear spray for hiking. Also be mindful of the changing tides, which can catch an unobservant hiker or parked vehicle off guard on the Flats. Adventurers looking for a spot to spend the night and see Dyea at its best in the early light have a few options. The Dyea Flats area, man- aged by the Municipality of Skagway, has its own campground. Another campground, lo- cated in a wooded area along the river at the entrance to Dyea (and closer to the Chilkoot Trailhead), is managed by the National Park Service. For those who want a bed and meal cooked for them, there are nice cabins to rent at the outpost at the entrance to Dyea. The main thing about enjoying Dyea is not to rush through it. Those days were left behind in 1898. SOURCES • "Skagway: City of the New Century, The True Story of Skagway, Alaska including the White Pass, Dyea and the Chilkoot Trail, " Jeff Brady, ed., Lynn Canal Pub- lishing, 2013, 2019. • "Dyea, Alaska: The Rise and Fall ofa Klondike Gold Rush Town," MJ. Kirchhoff, 2012. • "Legacy of the Gold Rush: An Administrative His- tory of Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, " Frank Norris, 1996. Jeff Brady is an author/historian, editor/pub- lisher and bookstore owner who writes from his cabin in Dyea. Dyea, a study in contrasts. Remnants of abandoned buildings and boats can be seen from a bluff after the gold rush, and the quiet of the serene beauty of the tidal flats today. - USGSJB

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN A crash course in Skagway's corsets By Melinda Munson Cori Giacomazzi is in the busi- ness of breasts. Her high quality corsets have been cradling and lifting the bosoms of Skagway's working ladies since 2000. Compared to the rest of the country, a disproportionate num- ber of Skagwegians are familiar with the ribbons and stays of a corset as they perform seasonal jobs for a town whose economy is centered around portraying the Yukon Goldrush of 1896-1899. Tamar Harrison wore a corset for her job as a server and "ma- dame" at the Red Onion Saloon and brothel museum for 10 years. She swears corsets are comfort- able and is thrilled to be taking a Giacomazzi creation home when she moves back to her native United Kingdom. "I feel attractive now, in it. I be- come a different person," Harri- son said when Giacomazzi laced her into a black silk corset with red flowers. There was slight grunting and flailing throughout the process but Harrison assured the room she was just being dramatic. Giacomazzi met her first corset in the mid 1990s while attending fashion school. Her assignment was to make a reproduction of the original early 1800s piece. To date, she has made around 130 corsets. Giacomazzi said she loves cor- sets because, "they celebrate the female form." According to the artist, they are not as uncomfort- able as people imagine and the historical idea of an 18-inch waist "was not fact." (Men, too, wore corsets and some of Skagway's male residents have donned the contraptions .) Each of Giacomazzi's corsets are numbered. The structure of the textiles closely resemble their early counterparts, although Gia- comazzi adds three inches to ac- count for today's taller women. The coutil, or corset cloth, is from England, as is the spring steel which is used for the boning. "These are made correctly," Gi- acomazzi said. They are designed to withstand tugging, pulling and many, many days and nights of work and play. Some of the pat- terns are more traditional like Harrison's red blossomed corset. Another model features Carhartt fabric with pockets. Giacomazzi's last corset show was in 2015, which featured local women as models. "I'm a huge fan of real bodies," Giacomazzi said. The show highlighted a corset entitled, "Look into my eyes," with bold eyes fashioned over the black bodice, complete with eyelashes. Giacomazzi said she designed the piece for her sister, who felt like men were always looking at her chest. A string at- tached to the eyelashes made one eye wink. The crowd roared. "They lost it. It was fantastic," Giacomazzi said. Two of Giacom- azzi's corsets, including "Look e Page 13 photo by Melinda Munson Cori Giacomazzi laces up Tamar Harrison in a handmade corset. into my eyes," were displayed at the Skagway Museum. Normally, Giacomazzi works for the Red Onion on costumes, graphic design and as museum curator. During to the COVID-19 downturn, she accepted a job at the library. "Museum work translates really well to library work," Giacoma- zzi said. The artist also runs Lilith Moon which sells handmade clothing constructed from upcycled ma- terials. She has an Etsy site, but doesn't sell her corsets there. Each corset takes 8-12 hours to construct and prices start at $360. "I love to see a woman discover herself," Giacomazzi said as she told the story of a business wom- an who ordered a corset to wear discreetly under her business suits so she would feel powerful. "Everyone should try one," Gi- acomazzi said. Cooper Hays, a recent trans- plant and new hire at the Red On- ion is enjoying her Giacomazzi corset. "It's not ideal for breath sup- port," the singer said, who tried wearing a corset "because it was so beautiful" at a recent show. But Hays said she enjoys wearing the corset at work and it helps her posture. She sees the piece as a symbol of independence. "It's taking back a Victorian mi- sogynistic restraint," she said. Melinda Munson is co-owner of The Skagway News. ALASKA'S PREMIERE,SHOPPLNG EXPERIENCE 43 Glacial Coffeehouse Serving fresh baked goods, organic espresso, & fresh fruit smoothies. Breakfast & lunch available. 3rd & Broadway A Fine Line Alaskan Gins Representing 36 Alaskan artists SSS @ SKAGWAY Authentically renovated turn of the century buildings bring the excitement of the Gold Rush era back to life BROADWAY Alaska Artworks Showcashg Iocd Skag• way. Alaskan 510 Broadway b/w 6th. Alaska Knife Ulu vcyiety of Alaksa USA mode knives & uus. NE o' 7th & Broadway Bearllead Photography Gallery Alaskan nature photos by Nationd toga phet. Bcrrett Hedges. 7th Broadway Corrington History Of Alaska Scrimbhaw 3d Broadway h Golden Nath Ho tel Skaguay News Depot & Books Locd hdepe ndent bookstcye feahring AJaska/Yukon books. 208 @ Skagway Outlet Store FREE Iron Whatle with 7th & Skaguay News Depot • Alaska Artworks • gway Outlet Store • Bearhead Photography • ÄlåSkåKnife & Ulu • • Corrington Museum • A Fine Line

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Page 14 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 Skagway Traditional Council: Modern Tribal Government in Historic Setting By Dr. X'unei Lance Twitchell The history of Skagway is com- plex. Like many places throughout the United States, what is viewed as discovery and opportunity for wealth from the perspective of American culture is in reality the invasion of the traditional territo- ry of an indigenous population. Many organizations celebrate the gold rush of Alaska without ever recognizing that it marks a time of tremendous suffering, loss and the onset of oppression for Skag- way's first people. Despite this, the Tribe is attempting to bridge the gaps that exist in and around our community from a tribal per- spective; many of which originat- ed with the gold rush. Over the last hundred years, the geological and cultural landscape of Skagway has changed dramat- ically. Once a small valley full of trees and natural streams; modern Skagway is a collection of his- toric facades, gravel landfill and sizable docks that stretch out like fingers towards oncoming tour- ists. This place was once a vital bridge between coastal and inte- rior indigenous groups, who re- lied upon routes into the interior to trade the riches of the sea for those of the land. Inland groups savored preserved salmon, fish and seal oils and sea vegetation; and bartered with invaluable cop- per, moose and caribou meat and hides. To this day, trade continues with coastal and inland tribal groups. These activities, until re- cently, had all but subsided be- cause of the United States-Can- ada border, which effectively separated families, tribes and tra- ditional relationships due to regu- lations and a reluctance to recog- nize cross-boundary indigenous rights and relationships. Recent meetings between the Skagway Traditional Council (STC) and the Carcross-Tagish First Nations have begun to address and resolve cross-border issues including tra- ditional trading practices, histori- cal migration patterns and the use and ownership of the Chilkoot Trail. The STC is a federally recog- nized Indian Tribe pursuant to the Indian Reorganization Act of 1934, and is the governing body for Alaska Native and American Indian activities in the Skagway area. This means that the STC is a domestic sovereign body within the United States that has an in- herent right to govern activities involving tribal members and the traditional tribal territory of Skag- way's indigenous Tlingit popula- tion. The Tribe has been strongly active since 1999, and recently constructed a 3,600 square foot Native community center. The building was given the " twot' . Photo by Melinda Munson The STC sponsors many community initiatives. Here, STC Environmen- tal Technician Eliza Myers works near the airport removing invasive white sweet clover. name: Héen Agunatåani Hit, which is "whitecaps on the Water House," referring to an interpre- tation of the name Shgagwéi. To commemorate the event, the STC distributed 100 white baseball caps with the name of the build- ing embroidered on the front. The dedication of the building was a true celebration, as the entire community helped breathe life into the only structure the Native community has owned in over a hundred years. In all things, there is progress, and our people have always lived our life by the tides. The tide had gone out on our people in our ancestral land, but it has now re- turned. It is a wonderful time to be alive; to see young people learn- ing our endangered language, to see them dancing and understand- ing who they are by their heritage. And the sharing of this helps our entire community grow. Thank you for visiting, and for taking time to learn about Skagway's first people. Dr. X*unei Lance Twitchell, raised in Skagway, is an Alaska Native language associate pro- fessor at the University of Alas- ka Southeast. He is a storyteller, poet and formline artist. He also serves on the organizing faculty of Skagway's Northwords Writers Symposium. Mountain Mutts capture hearts, attention of Internet By Melinda Munson It's raining cold, large drops that pool on the treacherous ice, making it the kind of day that discourages dog walking. Regardless, Mo Mountain Mutts pulls up to Seven Pastures in their shiny white mini bus and nine dogs of varying sizes disembark. They shed their leashes and head to Skagway River under the direction of Mo and Lee Thompson, forging their own path through the foliage. Once the pets reach the sand, they sprint, sniff, wrestle and socialize. Mo offers advice for introductions with the canines whose names range from Whiskey to to Tater. "Don 't stick your hand out, be indirect." "Don 't put your face in their face." "While they're sniffing you, do nothing." "You cannot win them over by trying to talk to them and touch them." Basically, everything the average person does to greet an unfamiliar dog is incorrect. Mo says she grew up in the dog world. Her stepfather was a musher and breeder involved with the American Kennel Club. As a 12-year- old, Mo showed and handled dogs. Running a full-time dog training and walking business in a small Alaskan town is her dream come true. Last year, Mo was working two jobs: cutting hair and walking dogs, picking them up with a minivan. She was approaching burnout. "Ihad to choose one orthe other. I mean, it's job with benefits to help drive and manage not too hard to choose between playing out- side with a bunch of dogs and staying inside a building," she says. She quit cutting hair in August 2021 and committed to dogs full time. Lee also took a gamble, turning down a city canines. He also wants to be available when their child is born. Mo is about seven months into her first pregnancy. When the Thompson's van broke, the cou- ple invested in a 14-passenger bus that cap- Continued on page 15 73 Photo by Mo Thompson Clients of Mo Mountain Mutts sit at attention and wait for a treat. The dogs get picked up from their homes for a 45-minute pack walk.

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 15 KLONDIKE COLD DISCOVERY CAME IN A DREAM 'f Cingit Storyteller As told by Si Dennis Sr. from "Skagway: City of the New Century" I don't know how authentic this story is. It was told to my brother and me years ago by my mother. The story is about the two Tlingit Indians who found the gold that started the stampede that was later known as the Klon- dike Gold Rush. It's not the story of the gold rush itself, but events leading to the discovery of gold. The story goes like this. It seems that one of the men was out hunting one day, and during his travels through the woods looking for game, he came upon a pool of water. He decided to rest by this pool, so he sat down. He noticed that this pool had high, steep sides, mostly clay, and it was aw- fully wet and slippery. And as he sat there, he noticed something moving in the murky water. He just sat there and watched it. It swam over to the side of the pool and started to climb out, and he noticed that it was a frog. Now the frog almost made it to the top before it slid back into the water. So the man just sat there and watched to see what it was going to do. The frog made several attempts with the same re- sults, and he noticed that the frog was getting tired. He figured that the frog must have been trying for a long time. So the next time the frog started to climb out, the man walked over and lay down, reached out, grabbed hold of the frog, and took it out. He carried it over to a stream of water nearby and proceeded to wash the clay off the frog. While he was doing this he spoke to the frog like he was talking to another human be- ing, telling him why he was out there, looking for game and food for his family. I don't know if the frog found him any luck in his hunting but that night when he went to sleep, he had a dream. He dreamt that he was standing by a body of water and as he stood there, he watched the frog swim directly toward him. When the frog got so close, it stood up and turned into a man like himself, and this man start- ed talking to him. He said, "You saved my life and now I want to repay you." And he pointed and said, "You see that mountain?" When the man looked, it was like looking into a big screen or pic- ture, and he could see that moun- tain. Then the frog-man told him, "Study that mountain, memorize it. Because you're going to start off from here, and you're going to find that mountain, and that's where your luck is going to be." He tried to ask which direction he was supposed to be going, and the frog-man said, "Don't worry, you'll find it." So the next day, he told his friend about what he'd done with the frog the day before and about the dream he had. And his friend said, "Let's go and I'll go with you." So they got their provisions together and they took off. Their hunt went for days, looking for this mountain with no luck, and they traveled a good many miles away from home. They got down to the point where they had to take inventory to see what they had left. They were getting pretty low on their provisions and they knew they were a long ways from home. So they finally decided they were going to hunt one more day, and if they didn't find that mountain, they were going to start back for home. So the next day they started out. All this time, this one man had a feeling, for some reason, that he was always going in the right di- rection. And as the day wore on he became discouraged. Then, all of a sudden, he looked up, and he looked right at that mountain. He told his friend, "There it is." And his friend asked him, "Are you sure?" The man said, "That's the mountain. I recognize it." They went over there and dis- covered this gold that started the stampede that was later known as the Klondike Gold Rush. Si Dennis Sr., the grandson ofa Si Dennis, Sr. and wife, Dorothy Tlingit packer, for years was elder of the local Native community. He "walked into the forest" in 1997. This story has been told in many forms over the years as a dream that came to gold discov- erer Skookum Jim Mason. Some accounts say the dream occurred in Dyea, where Jim and his fam- ily traveled to often from their Tagish home. Two of his children are buried in the Dyea cemetery. Present with Skookum Jim at the discovery on August 16, 1896 were his nephew, Dawson Char- lie, and brother-in-law, George Carmack (he had married Jim's sister Kate, who was nearby). Carmack, being the only white man in the party, filed the discov- ery claim on Rabbit Creek (now Bonanza), a tributary of the Klon- dike River near Dawson City. Jim and Charlie were given the ground above and below discov- ery. Many newspapers of the day and subsequent histories credited Carmack with the discovery, but it was really a shared discovery in which Jim should be given the most credit. It was his dream af- ter all. Well-behaved bus passengers have reserved seats from page 14 tured the attention of the Internet. Now, it's common to see clips of Mo and Lee on social media, welcoming their dogs onto the vehi- cle, issuing flight attendant-like directions: "please keep your tails out of the aisle" and distributing complimentary liver. They have their own Instagram, YouTube and Facebook accounts. One of their TikTok videos has received over 6.5 million views. They've been featured on Go Fetch, Right This Minute and The Mirror. MTV has also been in touch with the duo. Companies have reached out for product placement and Bark- Box gifted a load of toys. The walkers exercise three to five dog groups a day. Each two-hour slot allows for a 45 minute walk. The packs generally contain around 12 dogs. The clients get picked up from their homes and secured to a bus seat by their leashes. The bus travels all two miles of Skagway's roads at about 25 miles per hour. Dogs must have a certain level of training to participate in the walks, such as stay and recall. Some of Mo's mutts wear e-collars. Mo emphasizes that her collars are high-end tools. For pack walks, she uses them mostly when the animals are out of hearing 'i range or are distracted. For Mo, the hardest part of the job isn't controlling the canines, it's dealing with people. "The dogs are always the eas- iest to train, it's the humans that are harder to train," she says. Her favorite aspect of the work is when a dog learns a new skill and owners "can finally see their dog's potential." While the puppy bus elicits a plethora of smiles, there are some criticisms. Several resi- dents contacted The Skagway News but none would go on record. Concerns ranged from using municipal trails for com- mercial gain, which is against municipal code, to feeling uncomfortable using the same area as the pack dogs. Some questioned the feasi- bility of large pack walks when tourist season begins. Mo says they do their best to make their own trails and to stay away from other dog walkers. As of deadline, no official complaints against Mo Mountain Mutts have been filed with the borough manager, police chief or the Public Safety Committee. Mo says she looks forward to the return of tourists. "I love when tourists come to town, it helps me proof my distraction training. It's actually been harder to train dogs without them and I am so happy to have them back." "I have the best job in the world," she adds. This article was first published in February 2022. Since the original publication, Mo and Lee have celebrated their son 's first birthday. Their dog walking company is even more fa- mous with articles in NPR and The Washing- ton Post, an entry in Wikipedia and a mention on Saturday Night Live. Photo by Melinda Munson

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Page 16 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Skagway's First Century: Historical Timeline SUMMER 2023 Compiled by Jeff Brady Pre-1887 - Skaqua or Shgag- wéi, as it is known by the Tlingit, a windy place with "white caps on the water," is used by Chilkoots and Chilkats for hunting and fish- ing. A few of these Native Alas- kans settle in the quieter areas of Smuggler's Cove, Nahku Bay and Dyea, head of the Chilkoot trail, a centuries-old Native trad- ing route becoming popular with early prospectors heading into the Yukon. In the 1880s, U.S. Navy and Army patrols establish feder- al presence in the area. 1887 - In June, Skookum Jim, a Tlingit packer from Dyea and Tagish, leads Capt. William Moore, a member of a Canadian survey party, over a new pass up the Skaqua river valley. It is later named White Pass for the Cana- dian Interior minister. In October, Moore returns with son, Bernard. They lay claim to 160 acres and begin work on a cabin and dock for "Mooresville." 1894-95 - Northwest Mounted Police patrol lands in area on way to Yukon to establish Canadian presence. Early prospectors take Moore's crude trail over White Pass. 1896 - On Aug. 16-17, gold is discovered by Skookum Jim, George W. Carmack and Dawson Charlie on Rabbit Creek, later called Bonanza, a tributary of the Klondike River, 600 miles from Skagway. They stake their claim to history. 1897 - Moore opens trail on July 14, just before steamships arrive in San Francisco and Se- attle with famed "Ton of Gold," setting off Klondike Gold Rush. On July 29, the steamer Queen lands at Moore's wharf, the first of many stuffed with hundreds of gold seekers. The Moores are overrun: Mooresville is re-plat- ted by surveyor Frank Reid as Skaguay. Later that fall, a post office, church and newspaper (Skaguay News) are established. Many pack animals perish on crude "Dead Horse Trail" out of Skagway. George Brackett builds toll road to White Pass City, a tent city 15 miles up the valley. 1898 - Skagway booms to near- ly 10,000 people. Daily Alaskan newspaper appears. Chamber of commerce and volunteer fire de- partment organize. Close Broth- ers of London buy out Brackett for railroad line. Construction begins in May on White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad. Unofficial city government forms and allows railroad tracks up Broadway. First school opens in Union Church in June. Criminal gang led by Soapy Smith reigns until he is shot and killed by an angry mob led by Frank Reid on July 8, four days after Smith stood on the podium with governor at Skagway's first Independence Day celebration. U .S. Army, stationed in Dyea, re- stores order. Reid dies and gets a hero's funeral at town cemetery. Spelling changed to Skagway by post office, and most businesses follow. Townspeople are called Skagwayans. 1899 - Railroad crews advance to summit and reach Lake Ben- nett in July. Building boom con- tinues with construction of Arctic Brotherhood Hall and McCabe College (on land donated by Capt. Moore). He builds his own showplace home nearby. Some buildings are shipped over from declining Dyea. New school built on 11th. City becomes fire-weary after seven downtown buildings are destroyed, and a forest fire burns the Army post near Dyea. The troops, most of them Black, move to Skagway. 1900 - Census records 3,117 residents. On June 28, Skagway becomes the first incorporated city in Alaska on a vote of eligible property owners, 246-60. It beats Juneau by a day. On July 29, the WP&YR is completed between Skagway and Whitehorse with a golden spike ceremony at Car- cross, Yukon. WP&YR depot and hospital constructed. 1901-02 - McCabe College closes and federal government buys it for courthouse. H.D. Clark farm established across river. Charley Walker sends vegetable display to Portland Exhibition. Moore town site claim settled, Moores get 60 of original 160 acres and compensation. Harriet Pullen purchases Moore's stately home and opens Pullen House. Herman Kirmse organizes first garden show in 1902. On Sept. 14, a man attempts to rob the Canadi- an Imperial Bank of Commerce branch on Fifth and blows himself up by accident, along with cash and gold dust, some of which is recovered after mining the street. The man is never identified. Den- tist L.S. Keller ends up with skull. Army troops begin work on Fort Seward near Haines, where they will be transferred in 1904. 1903-05 - International Bound- ary dispute settled in 1903 with borders set at tops of mountain passes. Skagway News closes, leaving only the Daily Alaskan. Bobby Sheldon, 22, builds first automobile in Alaska for 1905 Fourth of July parade. He will later drive first car over Alaska's first highway from Fairbanks to Valdez. Skagwayans discuss a road to eventually connect with the Valdez road. 1908-10 - Several buildings re- located to Broadway from other parts of city to develop business district along rail line, including Red Onion Saloon and the Gold- en North Hotel, owned by the Dedman family. 1912-13 - Fire on hillside above Lower Dewey Lake destroys P.E. Kern's Castle, a hotel in the woods. J.M. "Si" Tanner, a pop- ular marshal and hardware store owner, is elected to Alaska's first Territorial Legislature in 1913. 1914 - Major Richardson of Alaska Road Commission ap- proves rough four-mile road up east side of river. 1915-17 - Alaska Women's Temperance Union meets in Skagway and writes "Alaska Bone Dry Act," which Legislature will later adopt ahead of national prohibition. Martin Itjen operates Skagway Hack, doubling as a taxi and coal truck. His business will evolve into the popular Ska- guay Street Car Co. Itjen acquires Soapy's Parlor for a museum; one of his artifacts is the bank robber's skull acquired from Dr. Keller, who has taken over the fledgling Alaskan. Keller coins the term "Garden City of Alaska." New Bank of Alaska opens in 1916. It will pioneer branch banking and grow under the Rasmuson family into the largest bank in Alaska. Itjen's friend, George Rapuzzi, establishes Pet Cemetery across river where his dog loved to chase rabbits. 1918-19 - Saloons close. On Oct. 23, SS Princess Sophia leaves Skagway with more than 350 aboard. She strikes Vander- bilt Reef in a blinding snowstorm near Juneau. Captain gambles on tide lifting ship off reef. After two days of weather deemed too rough for a rescue by smaller boats, she breaks apart and all aboard perish. After dodging the first wave of the Spanish flu that winter, Skagway lets its guard down and loses three residents in the spring of 2019. 1920-22 - Skagway Women's Club forms in 1920 and establish- es Skagway Library in 1921. First airplane lands on beach. 1923- President Warren G. Harding visits Skagway on Navy ship on July 11, 1923. He delivers address at the Pullen House and is the final inductee into the Arc- tic Brotherhood. George Rapuzzi, a member of the Alpine Club, climbs the mountain opposite Skagway and flashes presidential party with mirrors from the sum- mit. Peak hereafter is named Mt. Harding for the president who would die shortly after his return from Alaska. Daily Alaskan shuts down after the death of publisher Keller. 1924-30 - Beginning of first tourism boom heralded by visible promoters Itjen and Pullen, along with WP&YR, which convinces ships to stay 36 hours so visitors may ride the train and take a Yu- kon lake steamer trip from Car- cross to beautiful Ben-My-Chree. As a fund-raiser for the hockey club, townspeople hold a variety show for tourists at the White Pass Athletic Club. It will become The Days of '98 Show and move to the Eagles after the athletic club shuts down during the Great Depression. 1931 - St. Pius X Mission is established in Skagway under the wing of Father G. Edgar Gallant, who will operate the school for Native children from across Alas- ka for almost 30 years. 1932 - White Pass roundhouse burns Feb. 12. 1933-34 - Idea for a Gold Rush National Park in Skagway is first promoted by Chamber of Com- merce. Prohibition repealed. First airfield constructed from 13th to 22nd Avenues along Main Street. 1935 - In a heavily promoted visit, Martin Itjen calls on sexy starlet Mae West in Hollywood,

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 17 From left, Maggie Kadanah, wife of a Tlingit chief; early members of the '98 Show cast; Liarsville sanitarium arter war boom in 1945; big obstacle on the highway Job; centennial stamp dedication. Young City Survives - 'Tis No Mushroom Growth Invites her to "come up and see me sometime" in Skagway. Town hosts first convention as Newspa- per Institute of America delegates arrive on ship. 1939 - Women's Club rais- es $25,000 from Territory and $24,500 from federal Works Progress Administration to build a new school. It opens in 1940 be- hind the old one at State and 1 lth. 1942-44 - Skagway is literal- ly invaded by U.S. Army troops, who take over the railroad for a major supply route to build the Alcan Highway. Three thousand troops are stationed here, and as many as 20 trains a day climb the pass. A pipeline is constructed along railway for fuel shipments. Army takes over fire department and promises 24-hour service, however major fires devastate or- nate Elks lodge and Pullen House. Army has better luck assisting community when the Skagway River crests its banks twice and floods parts of the city. 1945 - After troops leave Skag- way, U .S. Health Service opens a 90-patient tuberculosis sanitari- um in the army hospital across the river. Nurses come from Sisters of St. Ann in Victoria, B.C. It closes in 1947. 1946-50 - WP&YR takes back railroad and assumes fuel oper- ation. Tracks are removed from Broadway in 1947. A fire almost destroys the Mission School. Dyea Road constructed by Alas- ka Road Commission. Tourism pioneers Itjen and Pullen pass on. Pullen House eventually closes, but Rapuzzi keeps Itjen's dream alive at Soapy's. 1951 - White Pass becomes a pioneer in the shipping industry with containerized cargo: from the docks in Vancouver, loaded on the ship Clifford J. Rogers (first container ship in the world) for the journey to Skagway, then onto trains bound for its destination in Whitehorse. 1952 - Aluminum Company of America (ALCOA) announc- es plans to build a $400 million smelter in Dyea, powered by the mighty Tyee Project, a proposal to reverse the flow of the Yukon River with a dam in Whitehorse, and thence using that water from Yukon lakes through two tun- nels down the old Chilkoot Trail to power the smelter. A "mighty city of 20,000" will be needed to support the plant, which will need 20,000 acres in the valley floor. Juneau Empire starts week- ly Skagway Alaskan newspaper. Townspeople are called Skag- wayites. 1953 - ALCOA dream fades as negotiations fail to convince Ca- nadians they would receive bene- fits of cheap power from the Tyee Project. Alternatives explored and Yukon later builds its own dam at Whitehorse Rapids. Newspaper promotes road to Carcross. 1954-55 - Railroad takes deliv- ery of first two diesel-electric en- gines, in addition to new flat cars and tanker cars. Alaskan merges with Haines Herald to become Lynn Canal Weekly. ARC com- pletes quarter-mile extension of road to Black Lake. But it won't go further until Canadians sup- port a road from Carcross to the border. 1956-60 - City of Skagway purchases McCabe building from federal government in 1956 for of- fices. ALCOA formally abandons smelter plans in 1957. Alaska and Skagway celebrate statehood in 1959, and Morgan Reed is elected to first of four terms in the State Legislature. Monsignor Gallant is transferred to Anchorage that year and the mission school clos- es without his leadership in 1960. 1961-62 - Another mile of road is built "to modern standards" to the sheer rock face past Black Lake. Upstairs of McCabe con- verted into the Trail of '98 Muse- um, using many artifacts donated by Skagway families. Work be- gins again on national park after State of Alaska shows interest. State selects land in Dyea valley for recreational use. Cy Coyne starts monthly North Wind news- paper. 1963-66 - First Alaska Ma- rine Highway ferry arrives. Rep. Reed teams up with Sen. Elton Engstrom to pass bill to form Yu- kon-Taiya Commission and re- vive Tyee Project if state's Ram- part Dam doesn't materialize. Chamber of Commerce organizes Clean Sweep. 1967 - Skagway River floods. Dikes breached and Pullen Creek culvert washes out. Gov. Wally Hickel flies up to inspect damage. White Pass Hospital closes after serving community for 69 years, and city begins work on new Dahl Memorial Clinic, named for long-time doctor P.I. Dahl, which opens in 1968. 1968-69 - WP&YR builds new depot. Plans announced for Cy- prus Anvil mine near Faro, Yu- kon, leading White Pass to up- grade its track and equipment for a huge lead-zinc haul. Company officials convince city council to grant 55-year tidelands lease for a new ore terminal and dock. White Pass roundhouse burns again in 1969. 1970-72 - Road support builds on both sides of border. Canadi- ans build new bridge in Carcross and extend road to B.C.-Yukon border in 1971 with activity at Venus Mine. In 1972 Canadians agree to build remaining 33.6 miles to Alaska border, and Alas- ka agrees to construct their 9.4 miles. It will be called the South Klondike Highway. Park master plan is developed. White Pass do- nates old depot to National Park Foundation. Yukon-Taiya Com- mission disbands. 1973 - White Pass sold to Fed- eral Industries. Alaska Congres- sional Delegation introduces first bills establishing Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Fi- nal road surveys completed. First seasonal park rangers appear on Chilkoot Trail under authority of Glacier Bay National Monument. 1974-75- A $10.9 million con- tract is awarded to Central Con- struction of Seattle, a company affiliated with one of Alaska's new Native corporations, for the Alaska portion of the Klondike Highway. Construction to take three years. 1976-77 Congress passes park legislation in June 1976 and superintendent and historical ar- chitect arrive. A temporary visitor center opens in the old depot, and the park is dedicated in Skagway in June 1977. The park includes four components: Skagway unit, Dyea-Chilkoot unit, White Pass unit and Seattle-Pioneer Square unit. City forms Historic District Commission. 1978-1979 - Modern Skagway News started by Jeff Brady after North Wind retires. Taiya Riv- er threatens old Native cemetery in Dyea, and first story the paper covers is controversial remov- al of remains by National Park Service to an area near the Slide Cemetery. Klondike Highway is punched through to border in September. Highway officially opens in spring. Final cost: $14.4 million on U.S. side and $12.2 million in Canada. In July, a scary fire destroys Sourdough Inn, Igloo Bar and a drug store, but S VFD prevents it from spreading. New city barge facility/ferry terminal completed. 1980-81 - State-supported live satellite TV arrives along with public radio on KHNS. Skagway becomes base for Disney's "Nev- er Cry Wolf' crew filming on White Pass. City hires tourism di- rector to promote Skagway. Fish hatcheries started at Burro Creek and school. 1982 - Faro mines shut down in spring, and railroad loses 70 per- cent of its revenue. This doesn't stop the return of Steam Engine No. 73. Optimism fades in fall as White Pass suspends rail opera- tions on Oct. 8, sending Skagway into a deep depression. Unions picket and stop White Pass in Haines when company tries to truck freight to Yukon on Haines Highway. 1983-85 - White Pass announc- es it will not operate, even for summers. Winter unemployment estimated at 70-80 percent. News- paper switches to monthly in win- ter. First running of Klondike Road Relay. Oil-rich state helps Skagway with $8.5 million to construct a new school. Skagway lands Alaska Visitors Association convention and sees increase in number of cruise ships docking to more than 100. Park's first resto- ration project, the old White Pass railroad depot, is completed and opened for the park's visitor cen- ter and offices. Broadway gets "historic pavement" to cut down on dust. Garden Club forms and establishes competition, Order of Eastern Star starts annual flow- er and garden show. Voters ap- prove land sale along Dyea Road and houses spring up on hillside. Number of visitors tops 200,000. 1986-87 - Curragh, Inc. buys Anvil mine and announces it wants to truck concentrate to

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Page 18 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SKAGWAY HISTORY Skagway. Mayor Bill Feero breaks a tied city council in February 1986 and city requests state to open highway year-round. Gov. Bill Sheffield and Yukon government Leader Tony Penikett sign historic agreement in April. Trucks operated by Lynden roll in June. Num- ber of cruise ships surpasses 200. Park restores more buildings and leases them to private businesses. City establishes Centennial Com- mittee in 1987 and park completes restoration of Moore cabin for its 100th anniversary. First Buckwheat Ski Classic joins Windfest as win- ter event. Prospective railroad buyers appear on scene and say railway would be a viable tourist operation. 1988 - On March I, White Pass President Marvin Taylor announces the company has reached agreement with its unions to reopen the railroad for a summer tourist operation with three-hour round-trips to the summit. Whistles blow all over town as employees re- turn to work. News goes back to twice month- ly year-round. Alaska State Garden Club holds annual convention in Skagway. Year ends on scary note, as high lead levels are recorded in Skagway from past ore movement. School children are tested by public health officials, and blood levels are below normal. 1989-90 - Massive $6 million cleanup by "supersuckers" paid by Curragh and White Pass along waterfront, railroad and highway through town. Battle lines drawn on water- front as White Pass proposes Broadway Dock west of ferry terminal, and Curragh tries to convince city to lease land for new ore dock and terminal east of ferry terminal. The latter fails when White Pass announces it will sell the terminal to the state's AIDEA to operate. School's Pullen Creek hatchery program re- ceives national award. 1991-92 - Ore terminal operates through Curragh strike in Yukon. Island Princess and Regent Sea collide in bay on way into port; miraculously no one is seriously injured. Ships are repaired and return later that sum- mer. New rules for harbor: ships must arrive an hour apart. Number of visitors tops 300 ,000 in 1992 during 50th anniversary of the build- ing of the Alaska Highway. KLONDIKE SKAGI WAY —crrYOFTHE -1 _EWCENT The True Story of Skagway, Alaska 1993-94 - Curragh wins big loan from Yukon Government to stay alive, then files Chapter I I. Terminal closes. Mine sold again to Anvil Range. City pushes for winter high- way funding, with or without mine, and get assurances from state and territorial leaders. Good year for filming on pass: TV show "Due South" in spring and movie "Snowbound: Jim and Jennifer Stolpa Story" in fall 1993. "Good Morning America" visits in May. White Pass announces plans to revamp and lengthen its Railroad Dock but is plagued by three fuel spills from its pipeline. A worse disaster be- falls White Pass a month later when the dock collapses, sending a tidal wave across the bay, uprooting the ferry dock and spinning it into the Broadway Dock. One worker is killed. Damage to state dock and Small Boat Harbor exceeds $1 million. 1995-96 - First cruise ship lands at rebuilt Railroad Dock on May 30. Adventure tour craze explodes with new operators and tours in Skagway and Dyea, and city approves more helicopter landings on glaciers. Voters approve extending sales tax to tours and trans- portation. Visitor numbers surpass 400,000. Main part of old school torn down after IO years of disrepair, but gym is saved for future recreation center. New border station opens on highway. Ore trucks and ships return in the fall. City elects first female mayor, Sioux Plummer. Skagway connects to the Internet 1997-98 - Cominco purchases Anvil Range, but mine shuts and ore terminal closes again in April 1997. Ore terminal reopens in fall after mine opens again, only to close on Christmas after Anvil Range files for protection. Howev- er, over next two years, city swells with pride during Klondike Gold Rush Centennial cele- brations. White Pass also begins three years of centennial events. The company is spun off from Russell Metals/Federal Industries and becomes part of new Tri-White Corp (later renamed ClubLink). Alaska Power and Tele- phone's Goat Lake Hydro project is complet- ed. State releases Juneau Access study, favor- ing either a highway up the east side of Lynn Canal to Skagway or using daily fast ferries. Skagway leans toward better ferries, while SKAGWAY CITY OF THE NEW CENTURY compiled & edited by Jeff Brady NEW IN 2019! Revised & Expanded edition now available in paperback! Culled originally from the pages Of the Skaguay Alaskan, comes the most complete and readable history Of Skagway ever undertaken! SUMMER 2023 Haines is adamantly opposed to a new road link. Juneau is split. 1999-2000 - Skagway Centennial Park is completed at 1st and Broadway, featuring a statue depicting a Tlingit packer leading a gold rush prospector up the trail. White Pass and state settle suit over 1994 dock damage, with railroad to pay $1.875 million. Skagway is 16th most visited cruise destination in the world with nearly 450 cruise calls. As visitor count approaches 750,000, city looks harder at dealing with impacts. Recreation center improvements completed, director hired and use expanded. The remainder of the town's streets are paved. Like the rest of the world, Skagway enters the new millennium with no bugs in its computers, and joins the cell phone age. McCabe Building is restored for city cen- tennial amidst construction delays, much like 100 years ago, and the city holds a big birth- day party outside in June before it moves in. WP&YR celebrates its centennial in July with great fanfare in Carcross, hinting at a return some day. Townspeople start calling them- selves Skagwegians. This timeline first appeared in the centennial edition of The Skagway News in 1997 and has been updated over the years. For an expanded version up to the present, see Brady's book, "Skagway: City of the New Century " (Lynn Canal Publishing, 2018) or visit the history page at skagway.com. Photos: Skagway Museum, KGRNHP, Brady collection Public Wi-Fi hotspots Skagway Public Library offers free Wi-Fi from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily. City Hall and Shoreline Park also provide free Wi-Fi, with a limit of 30 minutes. All internet access points are identified with a Wi-Fi symbol on the map be- low, courtesy of the Skag- way Visitor Department. A larger map with WiFi hotspots is on page IO. ' 'My history lovers pick of the summer. — Michael Gates, the History Hunter (Yukon News) 536 pages, more than 390 historic photos • revised & expanded softbound edition $24.95 Available all over Skagway and the north or from Lynn Canal Publishing at www.skagwaybooks.com • 907-983-3354 OFF SIGNED HARDBOUND FIRST EDITIONS AT SKAGUAY NEWS DEPOT

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 19 Peace and laughter on the boardwalk By Gretchen Wehmhoff Standing next to the Skagway News Depot, I watched a family of ravens teach their offspring the tricks of ravenhood. Today's les- son covered how to hang onto a utility wire. A younger bird kept moving in on the parent, who cawed for it to pick its own wire. After a min- ute or so of testing mom or dad, the fledgling took the leap to the wire a foot away. It made contact at first, until it couldn't keep its balance. The bird struggled to get its feet secure around the wire, but slipped and swung around in circles, much like a child spinning on their knees on bars on the play- ground. It found its balance again, trying to hang onto the much nar- rower wire, then spun forward and found itself hanging upside down, wings awry with not many choices but to let go. It dropped and rolled mid fall, catching the wind to fly to the roof across the street where the rest of the family watched. Life around the boardwalk nev- er lets me down. Sitting on the bench underneath the stairs to the news office has become a highlight for me. I love conversations. Almost everyone passing by has a story to chat over. I've met many locals, peo- ple from hot parts of the Lower 48 who came to cool off and families Golden Circle on reunion voyages. There is a solid sense of peace in this town. People say "hey" as they walk by and Athena has re- ceived an abundance of attention as tourists and locals alike stop to scratch her behind the ears and talk about the dogs they left at home. I love the wind, the rain, the sun and the people here. Next week my husband will arrive to work for six weeks and I hope he finds the same peace I do. I've enjoyed getting to know locals over the winter, on Face- book, and in passing. Now I get to see everyone doing their summer routine and it is exciting. Even walking down the sidewalk, ex- citement can surprise you. A few days ago I took Athena out to do her duty, then headed back to the boardwalk, carrying a clear plastic bag of her busi- ness. As I came close to Tay- ia Fine Arts, I saw Katie setting up for the day, the door open for business. At the same moment, a group of tourists hovered near the Mascot Saloon. For a split second I weighed my choices say hi to Katie with a bag of poop, or get to the trash can before the visitors met up with me. It only takes a moment for your dog to read your intentions. Mine chose to visit Katie while I made the move to head for the trash can. I floundered over Athena in a dra- matic roll. Katie saw me fall and later said it was in slow motion, like I knew I was going down. When you get to a certain age, you learn awareness of the fall. Don't put out your hands (avoid broken wrists), tuck your head and try to roll to your butt, which in my case, gives me the most protection. I must have called out in sur- prise because I found myself ly- ing on the boardwalk surrounded by a dozen cruise visitors and Ka- tie. A woman offered her hands, but I was afraid I'd pull her down with me. So, in a not-so-graceful move, I pointed my rear end up to- wards our guests and walked my way up with my hands. The help- ful woman straightened the front of me, and as I turned around, Katie gently pulled my hair out of my face. Concerned faces were everywhere. I'm pretty sure Ath- ena was getting equal attention. I smiled and said thanks. It was at that moment I realized something was missing. The bag of poop. I looked around the ground be- tween people's feet, trying not to call attention to the fact that I was missing the very thing I was try- ing to hide before I met them. My eyes landed on it. It had flown into the street, just off the boardwalk. Suddenly, smart shoes and an elegant dress took commanding steps off the boardwalk, missed the bag by inches, and the owner of the shoes greeted the group of good Samaritans on the other side of our small pod. It was Cooper, trying to retain her "Madame" walking tour that I had acciden- tally hijacked. "You ought to put some ice on that knee, Gretchen," she confi- dently advised. With that she led her group of clients down the alley like the pied piper. By this time Melinda had made it down the stairs to see what had happened. Denise and Billi had stepped out of their storefronts to check on the commotion or laughter. I was sure I would be sore the next day, but there was some slapstick humor in it all. As I turned to talk to Melinda, the woman from the tour group who first offered help came up to me. "I believe this belongs to you," she grinned. She handed me the bag of dog poop, holding it carefully with her thumb and forefinger. I think she saw the humor as well I think. Gretchen Wehmhoffis co-owner of The Skagway News. ADVENTURE RACING The area known as the Golden Circle (Skagway- Whitehorse-Dawson-Haines) is becoming a popular destination for the adventure racer. These are the big ones : Buckwheat International Ski Classic — Usually held on a Sat- urday in March at Log Cabin, B.C. on the Klondike Highway, this is billed as an event for the "lazy, the infirmed and the few who are fast." There is a 5K kids event and 10K, 20K and 50K races that draw Olympian cross-country skiers and aid station groupies. Great par- ty afterwards in Skagway for the 400 hearty souls. Visit the race website: www.buckwheatskiclassic.com, registration begins in January. Check site for ski conditions or call the Mountain Shop, 907-983-2544. Kluane to Chilkat Bike Relay — This popular 160-mile bike relay from Haines Junction, Yukon to Haines, Alaska draws up to I ,200 people in teams of one, two, four or eight. The race is held the third Saturday in June. To register online visit www.kcibr.com or call 867-334-6871. Yukon River Quest Canoe and Kayak Race — Born out of the successful Dyea to Dawson Centennial races, this paddling marathon from Whitehorse to Dawson City, Yukon, begins the last Wednesday in June. Up to 125 teams paddle 444 miles of the Yukon River, making it a true "Race to the Midnight Sun" and the longest annual canoe and kayak race in the world. Register Nov. I to May 15. Visit www.yukonriverquest.com or call 867-33FLOAT. Klondike Trail of '98 Road Relay — About 1,500 runners take off from downtown Skagway in teams of IO on the Friday after Labor Day and run through the night to Whitehorse. Sound nuts? It is but it's a great rush. Visit www.klondikeroadrelay.com or call 867-668-4236. Yukon Quest Sled Dog Race — this tough 1,000-mile mushing race be- tween Whitehorse, Yukon and Fairbanks , Alaska begins the second Saturday in February, alternating starting towns annually. Visit www.yukonquest.org or call 867-6684711. Runners in the "Kinda" Klondike relay pose in front of Rotary Snowplow No. 1 after running five legs from the British Columbia/ Yukon border to Skagway. The race, a fun run with Canadian counterparts running from Whitehorse to the border, took place in lieu of the Annual Klondike Relay, due to the pandemic and closed borders. - Photo by Joe Stoltze

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Page 20 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 NAME THOSE PEAKS AND OTHER GEOGRAPHY LESSONS By Frank Norris Geographical Correspondent What's in a name? As the following glossa- ry suggests, plenty. The place names that dot the landscape are living reminders of who has been before us, along with some of their atti- tudes, legends and whimsy. You'll soon find that the people who gave Skagway its (mostly European) names were a lively, humorous and patriotic bunch. AB Mountain - This is the large mountain located just north of Skagway. As you may know, the Arctic Brotherhood Hall, one of the town's most prominent buildings, is locat- ed on Broadway between Second and Third. When the A.B. Hall was constructed in the spring of 1899, a workman on the roof noted that the snow on the south slope of the moun- tain showed the letters "AB." Deep, narrow gullies on the mountain retain snow for up to a month longer than the surrounding area. Us- ing a little imagination, observers today can witness this for themselves between April and June. Chilkoot Pass - The Chilkoots, a branch of the Tlingit Nation, used this pass as a trading route for hundreds of years before whites en- tered the area. Russians heard rumors about the pass during the 19th century, but not until the 1870s, when miner George Holt sneaked through, did Europeans begin using it. Freder- ick Schwatka, who took an expedition over the pass in 1883, called it Perrier Pass, and others called it Dyea Pass or (mistakenly) Chilkat Pass. Abandoned after 1900, except by occa- sional hunting parties, the pass reopened as a recreational trail in 1961 and is maintained by U .S. and Canada park services. Dewey Lakesnwin Dewey Peaks -Skag- way emerged from a homestead to a full-blown city during the 1890s, a time of American his- tory known primarily for the Klondike Gold Rush and the Spanish American War. Popular as the gold rush was, the coming of the war in April 1898 pushed the rush off the front pages of the world's newspapers. Nowhere was the patriotism of the war felt more vividly than in Skagway. When Admiral George Dewey's fleet smashed the Spanish at Manila on May I , the town responded by naming several lakes and mountains (elevation 5 feet) in his honor. They are accessible by a trail sys- tem east of town. Dyea/Taiya - This Tlingit word has had a whole host of spellings, including Dyaytahk. Even its meaning is somewhat disputed; while most suggest it means "to pack or to load," other say it means "place to look down to." Both are appropriate enough. Dyea, on the Taiya River, was the rival town to Skagway a rough-and-tumble port where miners got off the Inside Passage ships and started the long trail up the Chilkoot Pass. Face Mountain - When surveyors came through the area in 1898, this peak west of Skagway was named Parsons Peak. Locals, however, preferred to call it The Sphinx, Gnome Mountain or, more often, Face Moun- tain. Sure enough, those who look at it from below may be able to recognize the etched features of a human face. Elevation is 6,600 feet. Glacier Station, Laughton Glacier This site of an old station, 14 miles up the White Pass Railroad from Skagway, was one of several stations along the route south of White Pass. It is named for Laughton Glacier, just three miles east of the station and named for John Laughton, a commander of the U .S. forces in Cuba during the Spanish American War. Heart Mountain/Sawtooth Range - The huge ridge five miles north of Skagway and east of the U .S. border station is known as ei- ther Heart Mountain or Sawtooth Mountain. The latter name comes logically enough from the serrated appearance of the ridge. Heart Mountain is so named because of a large heart-shaped patch on the south slope, which supports no trees. Kern's Castle - One of the most successful early businessmen in Skagway was jeweler Peter Kern. Shortly after the rush, he built a mountain retreat in the woods above Lower Dewey Lake. It operated only a few years, burning down in a 1912 forest fire. Only a few rock walls and metal fragments remain. Kirmse's Clock - Visitors will notice an- other bit of Kern's handiwork the pocket watch clock on the mountain wall at the east end of Fourth Avenue, first painted during the gold rush, and now maintained by Kirmse's Curios, which bought out their competitor and changed the advertisement. Liarsville - This spot two miles north of Skagway is now site of the Tent City show. During the gold rush it was a large, impromp- tu campsite, the last place to stop before the rugged climb up White Pass. During the ear- ly part of the stampede, scores of reporters descended on Skagway, eager to gather ac- counts of trail conditions. Not wishing to hike it themselves, however, they collected here. Returning stampeders, of course, were free to say whatever they liked, or whatever they felt the reporters wanted to hear. Mount Carmack - This peak north of A.B. Mountain is the highest in the Skagway area with an elevation of 6,605 feet. It was named for George Washington Carmack, co-discov- erer of the Klondike gold. Carmack knew the area well, having crossed the Chilkoot as early as 1887. Mount Harding - President Warren G. Harding was the first and only president to visit Skagway. He arrived July II, 1923 on board the U.S. Navy vessel I--lenderson and remained long enough to give a speech at the Pullen House and to be initiated into the Arc- tic Brotherhood. Harding died three weeks later in San Francisco. The following July 4, local resident George Rapuzzi climbed the peak across the bay from Skagway and raised a flag on its summit while members of the Skagway Alpine Club officially named the mountain in Harding's honor. It's also known as "Witch Mountain" for the image of a witch on a broomstick below the glacier in summer. Sheep Camp - This gold rush town was the largest along the Chilkoot Trail between Dyea and Lake Lindeman. It was named in the late 1880s because of the mountain sheep (actu- ally goats) overlooking the area. A temporary campsite until the mid-1890s, it exploded into prominence in late 1897 and by April 1898 had a floating population of 8,000. It "ghost- ed" in spring, 1899. Skaguay, Skagway - Few have agreed on how the town's name should be spelled, or what the name means. Originally a Tlingit word, it has been variously spelled Shgagwéi, Skaguay, Schkague, Shkagway, Skagua, Schkawai and even Cquque. Most suggest that it means "home of the north wind," but others say it means "spirit of the cruel wind," "end of the salt water," or "rough water." Still others, us- ing supposedly authentic sources, suggest it means "lady relieving herself on a rock" or "sound a sled runner makes when it breaks loose from the snow and ice." The town erupt- ed from a homestead to a full-size city during the winter of 1897-98, witnessed the building of the railroad from 1898-1900, and has been here ever since. Smuggler's Cove - This small bay, one- half mile west of town, is presently a city park. Sixty years ago a homestead existed there. Many think its name dates back to the Prohibition era, but its name actually came into existence decades earlier. During the gold rush, the importation of liquor into Alaska was prohibited, and with customs agents situated in Skagway-Dyea, the cove was doubtless a popular place to land illegal cargo. White Pass - This pass was known to the Natives before whites began to encroach into the area, but it was ignored in favor of the nearby Chilkoot Pass. The first known tra- verse of White Pass took place in June 1887 when Capt. Moore and Tlingit guide Skoo- kum Jim ascended it as part of the William Ogilvie expedition. The pass was named for Thomas White, Canada's Interior Minister and Ogilvie's superior. Frank Norris has a doctorate in geography and is a retired National Park Service histo- rianfrom Santa Fe, New Mexico. He formerly worked at Klondike Gold Rush NHP in Skag- way and as the Alaska region historian in An- chorage. His books include "Garden City of Alaska" and "The Chilkoot Trail. "

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SUMMER 2023 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 21 Finding a Fisherman's Paradise in Skagway By Andrew Cremata Fishing Correspondent For first time visitors, Skagway might seem but a narrow valley, hemmed in by mountains, snow and ice. Yet, there are a great many hidden things that lie just beyond what is readily seen. There are narrow coves where families of otters drift lazily on the surf at the first light of day. Bald eagles scan wide expanses of sandy flats that reveal themselves with the ebb- ing tide. A short walk through the woods can reveal a hidden lake where mysterious ripples appear on the surface, a clue as to what might reside beneath. These are the places where pristine image of Alaska, sold in the brochures and on the Inter- net, come alive and resonate with some innate part within. It is an opportunity to reconnect with something lost amidst the dai- ly drudgery of work, traffic and routine. It is, no doubt, one of the reasons so many people cruise or drive to Alaska for vacation, and it is also the reason why so many native Alaskans love to go fish- ing. Skagway locals have unlimited access to wild places where salm- on teem by the thousands and trophy trout are always one cast away. For the visitor with limited time to explore, the options might be fewer. However, what makes Skagway unique in Southeast is that the wilderness lies just be- yond the periphery, and much of it holds lakes, streams and fish. Two of only a handful of lakes holding brook trout in the entire state of Alaska can be found in Skagway. Both Lower and Upper Dewey Lakes were stocked with the hearty, colorful fish in the ear- ly 1980s. Lower Lake, as the Io- cals call it, is a moderately steep 30-minute hike from downtown and its quiet waters are host to an array of natural wonders. Upper Lake is for the more serious hiker, with a strong legs and a lot of ex- tra time. A short drive to Dyea will re- veal the Taiya River, a great place to stalk Dolly Varden in the spring. Further along is the Dyea Flats, where sloughs meander through high grass, alpine lupine and wild purple irises. In the sum- mer these sloughs fill with salm- on and become something out of a fly fisherman's Alaska daydream. Not far away is Lost Lake, so named for its difficulty to locate, but a place where the perseverant are rewarded. This is a spot that seems almost primeval, where blueberries grow thick in the fall and rainbow trout are eager to strike throughout the spring, sum- mer and fall. Along the Klondike Highway to the north are an uncountable number of places to wet a line. As the road traverses a narrow slice of British Columbia en route to the Yukon Territory, every single roadside turnout is a potential spot to catch world-class grayling and lake trout. Anywhere along this road is an opportunity for isolation, peace and the unrivaled beauty of sheer mountainsides Andrew's dog, Rufus. (The vice-mayor?) Photo by Andrew Cremata framing deep glacial lakes. There are many other places to fish among the throngs of tourists and hustle of the summer season. Many of these places can be quite productive. But for someone desiring a more authentic Alas- kan experience, or the adventur- ous angler who seeks more than a notch on the handle of his rod, the chance to experience some- thing unforgettable is not far from where the cruise ships dock. Grab a trail map or ask a local Skagwegian for advice on the best place to fish during your visit. The locals take their fishing seriously, but they're a friendly sort. If you ask nice you might just find your own little slice of fishing para- dise. And don't forget to buy a li- cense. Andrew Cremata's award-win- ning column runs monthly each summer in The Skagway News. His book, "Fish This!" is popular in fish circles and the subject of constant bar conversation. When Andrew isn't busy writing, he's acting as Skagway's mayor. Or maybe it's the other way around.

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Page 22 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 Headu the Klondike... Hi hwa Editor's Note: The South Klon- dike Highway is not only the most scenic route to the Yukon and Interior Alaska, it also is a vital commercial link. Drivers tour- ing this highway will encounter trucks hauling various commodi- ties and large buses. Also watch for bicycle tours and sightseers. Drive safely and enjoy the ride. Mile 0.0 • FERRY TERMI- NAL. Head north to historic Broadway, Centennial Park, the Klondike National Historic Park and city of Skagway visitor cen- ters. Turn right or go straight to RV parks. To head out of town, take Broadway until the White- horse sign, turn left on 1st Ave one block to State Street, where a right turn begins the route to the Klondike Highway. 0.2 • CENTENNIAL PARK & ROTARY PLOW No. 1. Follow the row of mountain ash trees, planted by Skagway Garden Club in the 1980s, to the intersection of 1st and Broadway and Centenni- al Park, dedicated in 1997. The park's focal point is the bronze statue of a Tlingit packer leading a gold seeker up the trail. It was sculpted by Chuck Buchanan of Carcross. Cenntennial Park con- tains signs directing pedestrians to docks and monuments such as the Skagway National Historic Site, the first NWMP post in the north, the SS Princess Sophia and the pack animals on the Dead Horse Trail. Rotary Snow Plow No. 1 is on display here. Built in 1898 and restored in 1996, the historic plow is sometimes used in spring to open the line. 1.2 • WP&YR SHOPS. High- way curves west past rail yard where the rolling stock are ser- viced. 1.4 • GOLD RUSH CEME- TERY JUNCTION/SKAGWAY RIVER. Just before the Skagway River highway bridge and foot- bridge, a turnoff on right north- bound follows river and railroad tracks to old cemetery. Among those buried there are desperado Soapy Smith and town hero Frank Reid. A short trail leads from cem- etery to Reid Falls. Guide book available in town. 131.7 • SEVEN PASTURES PARK / DEDMAN STAGE / KLONDIKE HWY Just past the bridge leads to Skagway's soft- ball/soccer fields and outdoor Dedman Stage on land known as Seven Pastures. A tenth of a mile further on the right is another popular local attraction, the his- toric Klondike Gold Dredge that was brought back to Skagway in 1999-2000 and reassembled along side the river for tours. It former- ly worked on the Sixty Mile River near Dawson City, Yukon. 2.1 • DYEA JUNCTION. Eight-mile mostly gravel road leads to historic Dyea, Skag- way's rival city during the gold rush and head of the CHILKOOT TRAIL. In 1898, Dyea was a city of 10,000, but it folded soon after the railroad was constructed from Skagway to Lake Bennett. Noth- ing is left of the town except the remains of a wharf, some foun- dations, a few propped up build- ings and the SLIDE CEMETERY, where more than 40 persons were buried after the Palm Sunday Av- alanche on the trail in 1898. ADVISORY: Use extreme cau- tion when driving the narrow Dyea Road. Observe the speed limit, and pull off in turnouts to allow oncoming traffic to pass. 2.5 • LIARSVILLE ROAD. Road to right just as you head up the hill went to area where report- ers camped to get their news from packers who got off the trail here, hence the name. Now leads to major tourist attraction. 4.4 • BLACK LAKE. The old White Pass Trail followed around the east side of this small lake. 5.2 • HISTORIC DISPLAY. Turnout allows view of railroad and the remains of the BRACK- WAGON ROAD on the east side of the canyon. George Brack- ett, a former mayor of Minneap- olis, constructed the road in the autumn of 1897. It served as a toll road between Skagway and White Pass City before he sold out to the railroad in 1898. 6.0 • PORCUPINE CREEK. Turnout and small waterfall, just before Skagway's garbage incin- erator. 7.0 • US. CUSTOMS & 1M- MIGRATION BORDER STA- TION. open 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Alaska time). All persons enter- ing the U .S. from Canada must re- port here. Passports required. 7.2 • PITCHFORK FALLS. The most photographed falls on the highway tumbles down the mountain from Goat Lake, under the railroad tracks, and down to the Skagway River gorge. Pipe- line to right of falls draws water from the lake to a power plant below the highway, supplying hy- droelectric power to Skagway and Haines. 8.8 • HISTORIC DISPLAY. The White Pass Trail and White Pass City are in the valley below. White Pass City was a tent city that sprang up on the East fork of A camper heads south on the Klondike Highway through the moon-like White Pass summit country towardSkagway. - Jeff Brady the river at the base of Tunnel and Mine Mountains and Dead Horse Gulch. 10.0 • BRIDAL VEIL FALLS. Falls at turnout tumble down from hanging glaciers on Mt. Cleve- land. CAPT. MOORE 10.8 BRIDGE. Named for Skag- way's founder, the bridge spans a I IO-foot wide gorge with Moore Creek 180 feet below. At the time it was built in 1977 , this sin- gle-end support span was the only one in North America. 11.3 • SKAGWAY VALLEY. Large turnout with spectacu- lar view of Moore Bridge, Mt. Cleveland Glacier and the Saw- tooth Range. Nature displays. 14.0 • SUMMIT. Just before the border, highway tops out at 3,290 feet above sea level. Dis- plays on International Border- lands. 14.4 • WECOME TO ALAS- KA SIGN & KLOND- IKE GOLD RUSH MONU- MENT. Turnout just before border affords beautiful view of valley behind sign and monu- ments. 14.5 • INTERNATIONAL BORDER FALLS, B.C. Falls can be viewed from a turnout just past the border sign on the left. After crossing into Canada, road dips into the moonscape-like summit lake country of British Columbia. During spring of 2004, "The Big White" was filmed up here in the snow. Change your clocks. Alaska is on Alaska Time, while B.C./Yukon are on Pacific Time. 163 • SUMMIT LAKE. Series of turnouts allows view of lake and WP&YR summit at the south end. A popular snowmachining and backcountry ski area in the winter and spring (note Yukon Avalanche Association info. signs along this stretch), the area also is good for summer hikes. The small "pothole lakes" are warm enough for swimming or wading on hot days. Rest rooms at first turnout to east after border looking over lake. 22.2 • FRASER, B.C. & CANADA CUSTOMS. open 7 a.m. - 11 p.m. (Alaska time). All persons entering Canada from the U.S. must stop and report. High- way follows railroad. Old water tower is last one standing on the railroad. Turnout just past Cus- toms features display on the Yu- kon and B.C. View of Bernard Lake. 26S • TEEPEE VALLEY. Turnout and view west of Teepee Valley, where the Fantail Trail led to the Atlin rush of 1899. Also known to some as "Tormented Valley." 27.0 • LOG CABIN. Highway crosses railroad tracks. Parking area and displays about adjacent Chilkoot Trail National Histor- ic Site. Log Cabin was named for a way station on the White Pass Trail between the summit and Lake Lindeman. As the gold rush developed, a small town of 20 frame buildings sprang up. This was the point of collection for customs duties after cross- ing into Canada. When the rail- road pushed through here, a de- pot and freight warehouse were constructed. After the gold rush, the town crumbled and became a flag stop and section house. Great cross-country skiing. The Buck- wheat Ski Classic is run here on the Log Cabin Ski Trails every March. 30.0 • TUTSHI RIVER & FALLS • GORGE SUSPEN- SION BRIDGE. Highway fol- lows turbulent Tutshi down a gully and into a marsh before reaching the lake. This is a pop- ular recreational area for expert whitewater kayakers and rafting groups. The Gorge Bridge attrac- tion opened here in 2006. 35.0 • TUTSI-II LAKE. Be- ginning of a beautiful stretch of highway that runs along the west side of the lake (pronounced "Too Shy") for about IO miles. 39.6 • TUTSI-II PIC- NIC AREA. Short road to right to picnic area and boat landing. 45.0 • Road rises to high point between Lakes Tutshi and Tagish and passes site of a 1980s stamp mill for the Venus mines that nev- er operated. 48.5 WINDY ARM, TAGISH LAKE. This long, nar- row, windy body of water is an arm of Tagish Lake which stretch- es toward Carcross and then horseshoes around the mountains toward Ben-My-Chree, 50 miles away. 0K fishing for lake trout and grayling.

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SUMMER 2023 49.5 • B.C.-YUKON BOR- DER PULLOUT. Highway swings down to Windy Arm and crosses into the Yukon Territory. Watch for sheep on the hillside. 51.5 • VENUS MINE. The re- mains of a stamp mill and boat house along Windy Arm can be viewed from the side of the road. The small mill operated for only six months in 1910 before the mine shut down. Venus was most active between 1900 and 1910. Hard rock gold and other miner- als were mined from the mountain shafts visible above. A few unsuc- cessful attempts have been made over the years to revive the mine. More modern evidence can be seen over the next two miles, in- cluding the foundation of another mill and a filled-in tailings pond. Don 't pick berries in this area, as they are tainted with arsenic. 56.5 CONRAD CITY CAMPGROUND. Highway turns uphill over "Big Thing Creek" and passes an old tram tower. At top of hill a road to the right leads to the old townsite of Conrad City. Conrad, in the shad- ow of the mountain of the same name, had a population of about 3,000 during its heyday. It ser- viced three mines in the area. The old tram line can be seen from the road running up the back side of Montana Mountain to the west. Only a couple of cabine and dock runs remain from the old town. 58.7 • BOVE ISLAND. This island at the north end of Windy Arm, was named by U.S. Army explorer Lt. Fredrick Schwat- ka for a fellow lieutenant in the Italian navy. It was a menace for boatmen heading to the Klondike. Excellent view to the east of Lime Mountain and Tagish Lake. 65.0 • NARES LAKE. Bridge spans narrows between Lakes Nares and Bennett. Carcross and WP&YR bridge to left. 65.2 • CARCROSS. Road to the left leads to Carcross, which has a population of about 250 residents. Formerly known as Caribou Crossing for the caribou that forded the narrows, the town grew and thrived during the gold rush and was the site of the driv- ing of the golden spike complet- ing the railroad on July 29, 1900. The Carcross Visitor Center is in a new building on the left as you enter the town, and is at the gate- way to the new Carcross Com- mons development that includes the restored Skookum Jim house and various shops and eateries. Other attractions include the old WP&YR Depot, and a display set in the remains of the sternwheeler "Tutshi," which burned in 1990. SKAGUAY ALASKAN The sternwheeler used to ply the lakes between Carcross and Ben- My-Chree, a once-popular resort and garden spot. The tiny loco- motive next to the rail depot is the "Duchess," which ran on a $2 shuttle railroad on land between Tagish and Atlin Lakes, between connecting steamboats. Other his- toric structures include Matthew Watson's Store, the old RCMP Barracks, and the Caribou Hotel, which is being restored. 653 • MONTANA. Just past Carcross turnoff: gas station, store, diner, laundromat & RV park. Last services before Skag- way or Alaska Highway. Carcross Tagish First Nation band complex by the lake. 65.8 TAGISH ROAD JUNCTION. Turn right to go to Tagish (21 miles), Jake's Corner (34 miles), and Atlin (95 miles). Straight ahead is Whitehorse (45 miles). Either will connect with the Alaska Highway. 66.6 • CARCROSS DESERT. Affectionately known as the "World's Smallest Desert." Nice view of Mt. Caribou behind the sand dunes. 67.0 • CARIBOU CROSS- ING. Popular Yukon attraction, formerly called Frontierland. 72.5 • SPIRIT & EMERALD LAKES. Highway splits these two beautiful lakes that are fa- vorite stops for Skagway travel- ers. Lodge has canoes. From the turnout on the hill above Emerald Lake you can photograph one of the Yukon's most stunning vistas. The lake's shallow, sandy bottom gives it a color and beauty that's unsurpassed in the North. 80.5 • LEWIS LAKE. Road left goes one mile to a lake that was accidentally drained during railroad construction and caused a flood. The lake never quite re- covered. Tread this area carefully. stations toward town on the high- way. Campgrounds to the south and north. Whitehorse, a full-ser- vice city of 25,000, is capital of the Yukon. Attractions include the restored Riverboat SS Klondike, Yukon Visitor Center, and Mc- Bride Museum downtown. Along the highway are the Beringia Cen- ter and Yukon Transportation Mu- seum. Eight miles west of White- horse is the junction for the North Klondike Highway 2 to Dawson City and the Klondike gold. By Vern V. Hirsch & Jeff Brady Page 23 Vern Hirsch was the project engineer for the Alaska section of the Klondike Highway during its construction from 1976 to 1978. He took former editor Jeff Brady up the highway soon after it opened that fall and pointed out the sights for this highway log. The Alaskan makes a great souvenir. If you don't take it home with you, PLEASE PASS IT ON OR RECYCLE. DRIVING DISTANCES FROM SKAGWAY Carcross Whitehorse Atlin Dawson City Haines Fairbanks Denali Park Anchorage Seattle Chicago Miami 65 miles 110 miles 150 miles 435 miles 360 miles 710 miles 830 miles 830 miles 1819 miles 3202 miles 4818 miles 1.5 hours 2.5 hours 4 hours 9 hours 8 hours 18 hours 22 hours 20 hours 3 days 6 days 9 days * Times include stops for meals, pie and conversation. 85.0 BEAR CREEK/ MOUNT LORNE TRAIL. Just before crossing the creek, there is a parking area to left for the 5K hiking trail to Mount Lorne. Trail- head is across the highway. 86.5 • ROBINSON/ANNIE LAKE. Road leads to remains of Robinson, a town that sprang up around a railroad siding fol- lowing a nearby gold discovery between 1909 and 1915. Rest rooms. A half mile later is Annie Lake Road, which continues an- other 10 miles to Annie Lake and the Wheaton River. friends of the Klondike Corridor A few of our projects: Friends of the Klondike Corridor is the official non-profit partner for the Klon- dike Gold Rush National Historical Parks. We provide educational programs, funding and support for the National Parks and businesses along the amaz- ing Klondike Corridor from Seattle, Washington to Skagway, Alaska, to Dawson City, Yukon! 94.6 KOOKATSOON LAKE. Popular day use picnic area and swimming hole. 98.0 • ALASKA HIGHWAY JUNCTION. Distance to White- horse is 12 miles to the left. Gas RAPUZZI-DAHL HOUSE 2nd & Main In Skagway LIVING HISTORY YOUTH CAMP 120 Friends of the Klondike 'J Corridor is restoring a vital and central part of Skagway history. "Ihis Klondike Gold Rush era house was home to George and Edna Rapuzzi, and Dr. Dahl, important Skagway residents. Ilelp support us in this en- deavor as we create a site where the history of Skag- way from the Gold Rush to today is on full display for everyone. Visit our website to donate and learn more about all our projects. DONATE @ HERE Jom Cup Kelly in this par'S Of •s amazing Khulikc while reminiscing his tiltr during GOH Rush. Visit our website for informational videos. klondikecorridor.or [email protected]

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Page 24 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2023 Skagway Map and Advertisers Directory Please support these local advertisers. ltn:rm- 14 OWOBBWVCLZ Downtown Ma & åcb«lising Direcll Please support these local advertisers. Advertising in the Skaguay Alaskan supports Skagway's local paper, The Skagway News, and the hardworking newsies who get up early all summer to greet our visitors with this publication. If you would like to advertise in the Skagway News or The Skaguay Alaskan, contact us at [email protected] or 907-983-2354 • www.skagwaynews.com