The words in this issue
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MOST RELIABLE NEWS SKAGUAY Look for the Cone at 485 Broadway Open Daily 10 am-8 pm ICE CREAM & CANDIES FUDGE Made in store O Fresh Roasted Nuts 80 Bins of Fresh Bulk Candy 2022 THE MOUNTAIN SHOP The Finest in Outdoor Cloth- ing, Hiking, Paddling and Climbing Equipment For Sale or Rent 355 4th Ave. near Broadway (Look for our Mtn. Goat) 907-983-2544 PACKER EXPEDITIONS WILDERNESS TOURS World Headquarters! Richter's Est. 1910 28 Your Hatley Headquarters! Fun Clothing & Gifts for Kids and Adults Plus • Salmon • Souvenirs Gold Nuggets • Clothing • Fashion Jewelry • Tense Wood Watches Quality Gifts at Affordable Prices! 216 Broadway Locally Owned & Operated ONE STOP SHOPPING Y, With the Best Prices in Town! Apparel "Dlush & Toys & Knives Bulk Candy See Page 9 for a FREE Train Whistle! ALASKAN OWNED AND OPERATED 2nd Ave. across from the train station (907) 983-2015 THE KLONDIKE DOUGHBOY ALASKAN FRY BREAD! ALASKA JAMS 8 JELLIES REINDEER SAUSAGE Located just off Broadway on 3rd Ave. BAR O GRILL . Where the Locals Eat! Serving Lunch & the Best Fish & Chips in Southeast, Alaska! 4th Avenue (907)983-2200 0 Happy Endings Home of Alaska's ISt Cornhole Arena! Corner of State St. 8 4th Ave. ALASKAN SKh6UÄYS LEADING PAPER= FREE Skagway love story doesn't end so lovely Abuse exploitation; the demise of 'Minnie' Moore SKAGWAY FISH CO. KING CRAB FISH & CHIPS Fresh Alaskan Seafood Friendly Atmosphere And O the most STUNNING View in Town! 907-983-FISH 200 2nd Avenue (907)983-3921 See Page 9 for Amazing Offers Feattwi/tq 50+ Made in Alaska Companies! Robin Ruth bags and accessories, apparel, Russian nesting dolls, and a trove of Alaska made foods, soaps, and other gifts! 23, the T GALL See our ad SH on page 2 By Melinda Munson James Bernard (Ben) Moore first saw his future wife at a potlatch near Haines in March of 1890, in the Native village of Yen-da-Stuc- ka. His recollection of their meet- ing, found in his diary accounts: "Skagway In Days Primeval," reads like a romance novel, with details modern day readers will find problematic. "The men who took actual part in the dance vied hard with each other to make the most impres- Sion among the large audience. While standing there taking all this in I happened to glance up to a door that had just been opened and two young girls came out; one apparently fourteen or fifteen years old, quite light of complex- ion, of somewhat delicate appear- ance, and with long black hair. In fact she looked pretty, refined and modest, and in a way above any of her class I had yet seen. She saw me at the same time I saw her, and after we held each other's gaze for a moment, she. ran quickly back into the room. I became immedi- ately interested in this little girl and curious to know all about her. I was lonesome and yearning for companionship from the opposite sex," (136). BIKE TOURS AND RENTALS SEE SKAGWAY BY BIKE! Hybrid, road, mountain, & E-bikes for rent lusDeparting Daily. Full-service bike shop 907-983-2851 75 5TH AVE. BETWEEN BROADWAY AND S WWW.SOCKEYECYCLE.COM REPOWSALOON BROTHEL MUSEUM SIO for 20 minutes T our times posted in window corner or 2'1 Broadway Brothel Tour Todav! The young woman, Lingit Saayi (Klinget-sai-yat in most texts)* was in fact from a high-ranking Tlingit family. Her mother, Kude- it.såakw, was of the Kaagwaanta- an clan of the Finned House (Li- gooshi Hit) of the Eagle moiety. Her father, George Shotridge, was headman, or shaadehunias, as was his father before him. Born in 1874 in Klukwan, Lingit Saayi was 14. Ben was 20. That first glimpse almost didn't happen. If Haines shopkeeper Mrs. Healy had her way, Ben would have stayed away from the village. "Mrs. Healy strongly advised me not to attend the big doings but Mr. Healy saw no reason why I should not go up and see it all," Ben wrote (132). Ben considered Mrs. Healy like a mother, a substitute for his own, Hendrika, who lived in Victoria, Canada. But Ben heeded Mr. Healy's more palatable advice, and attend- ed his first potlatch. He made it clear he regretted his decision, and the eventual union, which ended badly for both parties with a di- vorce in 1909, allegations of abuse and one partner later taking their 11 life. continued on page 3 Lodge & Located at 5th and Broadway •Serving Alaska 's visitors for 45 years •Family owned & operated •Something for 33 907-983-3939 alaskabestshopping.com HELICOPTER TOURS Dog sledding Flightseeing Glacier Landings Temsco Helico 6 907-983-290(Y 92 Welcome 'ViJiting ClhJ LODGE OPENS DAILY AT NOON CORNER OF STATE & 6TH ST. SKAGUAY NEWS DEPOT- ALASKA 0 BOOKS 9 Maps - Mags News - Journals 3rd and Broadway Photo Cards across fronm AB Hall Totes & More Open all year • www.skagwaybooks.com 35
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Page 2 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 KLONDIKE COLD RUSH NATIONAL PARK SIGHTS Visitor Center and Museum: Open daily 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., the national park visitor center and main park mu- seum are located in the restored 1898 railroad depot at 2nd and Broadway with free admission and activities for all ages. Want to learn more about history's last great gold rush? Ranger presentations bring the events of 1898 to life through storytelling, photographs and scenic footage. The museum's interactive ex- hibits showcase gold rush era charac- ters and their hardships and adventures. Visitors can experience the journey by smelling sourdough and eulachon oil, stepping into a muddy boot print on the trail, and by "rafting" the Yukon River. Ask about upcoming programs and spe- Cial events including guest speakers and performing artists. Moore Homestead: Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., the historic Moore Homestead is located on 5th and Spring Street. The Moore Cabin and restored Moore House feature the story of Skagway's founding family and share the story of life in Skag- way before and after the gold rush. The picturesque Moore Cabin is the oldest structure in Skagway. The Moore House is a free, fully furnished house and museum with exhibits depicting the life of an Alaskan pioneering family: Ben Moore, Klinget-sai- yat and their children. Mascot Saloon Museum: Open daily 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., the Mascot Saloon Museum is an authentic post-gold rush saloon museum where visitors can hear the tinkling of the pi- ano competing with the conversation of hope- ful prospectors. Located on the corner of 3rd and Broadway, the free Mascot Saloon Muse- um features exhibits about early social life in Skagway. Jeff Smith's Parlor Museum: Free tours are available daily at 10 a.m., 2 p.m., 4 p.m. Explore how the story of gold rush outlaw Jeff "Soapy" Smith became a town legend and inspired a museum of curiosities, which is now one of the most unusual treasures of the National Park Service. The saga unfolds through gold rush artifacts, Martin Itjen's wacky creations and many decades of Skag- way curiosities. Now restored to its 1960s glory, come see "the greatest attraction in the world." Tours are free. Tickets are distributed on a first come, first served basis at the park visitor center on the day of the tour. Tours start in front of the Jeff Smith's Parlor Muse- um, 2nd and Broadway. 1' Photo by Melinda Munson Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Dancers from Haines and Klukwan per- formed outside of the National Park Service Moore Homestead. Trail Center: Open daily, 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., the Trail Center is located on Broadway between 5th and 6th Avenue. The Trail Center provides current trail conditions, maps and videos. Backcountry permits are is- sued here for the international Chilkoot Trail, the most fa- mous trail in the North. For more information about Klondike Gold Rush Nation- al Historical Park, visit: https://www. nps.gov/klgo/index. BRONZE SCULPTURE GARDEN & GOLD RUSH EXPERIENCE 10 A.M. - 4 P.M. CRUISE SHIP DAYS OR BY APPOINTMENT ON THE EDGE OF THE HISTORIC DISTRICT Seventh Ave. & Spring Street, across from the Skagway Museum SMART bus to the garden. Wheelchair accessible Listed in Art Talk Magazine as '"One of America's best sculpture gardens" 11 Stroll the garden and view sculptures valued at I million dollars by noted U.S. artists. For you history buffs, experience the Gold Rush from Skagway/ Dyea to Nome through large historical photographs and commentary from a prospector's diary. SKAGWAY MUSEUM OPEN DAILY • IN THE HISTORIC DISTRICT SEVENTH AND SPRING STREETS SMART BUS SERVICE TO THE MUSEUM Explore Skagway's unique history as the Gateway to the Yukon and interior Alaska in the McCabe College building, which served as a school, chapel, U.S. Court House, jail, and since 1961, as City Hall and Skagway Museum. On Display • Tlingit Canoe • Cutter Sleigh • Bering Sea Kayaks • WWII history Klondike Gold Rush Supplies • Alaska Native Baskets • Beadwork • Carvings (907) 983-2420 [email protected]
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SUMMER 2022 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 3 LINCIT SAAYI MARRIES, BECOMES 'MINNIE' MOORE continued from page I "Thus it was with me, and thus it was that lifelong unhappiness was brought about for her and for me, and which one's fault was it? Surely not hers, but mine," he wrote (137). After the mysterious encounter at the potlatch, Ben stayed overnight with Lingit Saayi's family, and con- tinued to visit the young girl. "I took this little girl out sleigh riding with dog teams, and we went coasting, and in a short time became quite friendly and enjoyed each oth- er's company very much. And un- conscious of it, I grew to like and then love this little maid, and she in turn grew to think a great deal of me. But even then I did not realize or think she was destined to become my wife" (137). After Lingit Saayit and her father left for Sitka for six weeks, Ben as- sessed his feelings and decided to seriously pursue the relationship, which everyone around him already believed to be a settled affair. The two were married in October of 1890. Lingit Saayi was 15 years old. They held a Tlingit ceremo- ny, then traveled to Juneau where they were married by a Presbyteri- an minister with both of the bride's parents present. None of Ben's fam- ily attended the wedding. Ben referred to his new spouse as his "little girl wife." Prior to their marriage, he started calling her "Minnie," after his sister. From that point on, Lingit Saayi lost her Tlingit name and would forever be known by the new moniker. While it appears to have been a love match, at least according to Ben, it also made sense financially for both families. "The Tlingits were happy to make that connection because it would strengthen their trade relations," said Dan Henry, professor of com- munication studies at Lane Commu- nity College in Oregon, and author of "Across the Shaman's River." Ben's father, Captain William Moore, a German immigrant to Canada, had arrived in Skagway in 1887, then called Shgagwei (heart-wooded place). ** Captain Moore witnessed a small number of prospectors already working and foresaw the arrival of more. He and his son built a small log cabin that today is Skagway's oldest structure. They homesteaded 160 acres, built a wharf and a sawmill, and prepared for the gold rush, which would start in 1897 and end in 1899. For the next several years, the newly married Moores traveled the Juneau area where Ben worked mostly at sawmills. Sometimes the couple rented a log cabin, some- times they lived in a tent. In No- vember 1891, their first child, Ben- ny, was born. Lingft Saayf's mother and sister were present for the birth. In November 1893, second child Edith Gertrude was welcomed into the family. Again, the maternal grandmother and sister were there to help. The Moore's third and final child, Frances, was born in Skag- way in August 1898. None of Lingft Saayf's family were present for this birth. continued on page 6 Whale Watching 0 Juneau Tour 0 Eldred Rock Lighthouse Fjord Express toJuneau Day Cruise Package from Skagway or Haines Departs Small Boat Harbors $189 $145 ROUNDTRIP ONE WAY & ONES • SKAGWAY • HAINES: 8:30am-7:30pm Continental breakfast and light supper provided LEGAL. CANNABIS ALASKA'S FIRST LICENSED MARIJUANA RETAIL STORE 317 3rd Avenue REMEDY SHOPPE SKAGWAY,AK Must be 21 WIDE SELECTION • PRE-ROLLS • EDIBLES • VAPES FLOWER • FULL LINE OF CBD FRIENDLY KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF REMEDYSHOPPE907.COM . (907) 983-3345 3RD AVE - P.O. BOX 193 . SKAGWAY, AK 99840 Marijuana has intoxicating effects and may be habit forming and addictive. Marijuana impairs concentration, coordination and judgment. Do not operate a vehicle or machinery under its influence. There are health risks associated with consumption of marijuana. For use only by adults twenty-one and older. Keep out of the reach of children. Marijuana should not be used by women who are pregnant of breast feeding. (907) 766-3395 • 1-800-320-0146 • www.alaskafjordlines.com TICKETS: Book Online • Skagway Book Co DAYS OF 798 SHOW O LoftheOldest howsin the World! SHOWS DAILY 10:30am 12:30pm 2:30pm BUY YOUR TICKETS NOW! www.thedaysof98show.com TripAdvisor: "A rip roaring good time!" "You must see this show!" FOE Eagles Hall 6th & Broadway "l was laughing til my cheeks hurt!" Skagway, AK 88
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Page 4 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 Skagway Visitor Center At A.B. Hall Welcomes All Skagway's Visitor Information Center is located at Arctic Brother- hood Hall (Broadway between 2nd and 3rd). A unique building built in 1899 and covered in thousands of pieces of driftwood, the AB Hall Visitor Center is open weekdays, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Pick up a Skagway Visitor Guide, walking tour map or trail map to ex- plore all that Skagway has to offer. Friendly and helpful staff is on hand to answer any questions. Watch for special programs and displays in the main hall. Visit www.skagway.com for community information and utilize the messenger feature to get ques- tions answered by a local. A.B. Hall Skagway News archives Alaska Liquor Store 290 2nd Ave. Open Daily 9 a.m. - 11 p.m. Large Selection of Wine, Beer and Spirits 0 983-3888 An original and imaginative tale by local author Rie LaMarr Meet the Back Aley Rock ghop A wonderful Alagkan gift Available at Back Alley Rock Shop and 94/89@ SMART Skagway Shuttle Bus Service All Cruise Ship Docks to Downtown 7:00 A.M. - 9:00 P.M. $3 per ride or $5 all day pass ADA Accessible Vehicles Back Alley Rock Shop Pan for gold • gifts • jade • nuggets n the alley between 4th & 5th PA6Cic Radio for tac upper lynx CanaC Music News Nuggets of information Population: Skagway has 1,240 residents according to the 2020 Census, although numbers generally fluctuate from about 800 in January to more than 2,500 in July with the influx of summer workers. The largest minority, about 7% of residents, is Hispanic or Latino. Native Alaskans of mostly Tlingit origin make up the sec- ond largest minority group at 5.5% of the population. Government: Skagway was the first incorporated city in Alaska on June 28, 1900, and remained that way until June 5, 2008, when it voted to become the state's initial first class borough, the Munici- pality of Skagway. The muni elects a mayor and six assembly mem- bers, with five community members serving on the school board. The borough collects property tax (7 mills at the highest), 5% sales tax (3% winter) and an 8% room tax. Skagway Traditional Council, a sovereign tribal government, has over 100 enrolled members, comprised mostly of Tlingit and Haida Alaska Natives. The council has been growing steadily since 1999. School: Skagway School has an enrollment of about 130 students in grades K-12. Test scores averaged the highest of any district in Alaska last year. Mascot: Panthers. Land/Elevation/Power: Skagway is in a classic U-shaped glacial valley that is slowly "rebounding" by 1-2 inches a year. Elevation ranges from sea level on the coast to peaks reaching nearly 7,000 feet. The municipality stretches from the Canada border to the Haines Borough, encompassing 452.4 sq. miles of land and 11.9 sq. miles of water. Power comes from three nearby AP&T hydroelec- tric facilities. Climate: Average summer temperatures range from 45 to 67 F, although it occasionally reaches the 90s. On the summer solstice there are nearly 19 hours of daylight. Average winter temps are 18 to 37 F, but occasionally it will dip below zero. With a north wind, it can feel like 50-below. Skagway receives just 26 inches of rain a year and 39 inches of snow in town, although more than 20 feet can fall on White Pass each winter. Summer Visitation: In 2019 the borough welcomed 1.1 million cruise ship passengers. The next year, cruise ships did not enter the port due to COVID-19. In 2021, the town celebrated a tiny re- covery with less than 100,000 cruise passengers. This year, expec- tations are for an estimated 70% of 2019's visitor statistics. Economy/Values: Median household income, according to the 2020 Census, was $71,875, with average per capita income of $41,842. About 3.8% live below poverty level. Largest employers are the visitor and transportation industries and government. The largely seasonal economy gives Skagway the distinction of having one of the lowest unemployment rates in the state in summer (2- 3%) and one of the highest in winter (22-27%). Skagway is actively marketing its year-round port to attract more shippers from Yu- kon mines and boost winter employment. A copper mine currently uses the port. The Basics: In early May, the price of unleaded gas was about $5.50 a gallon, milk approached $7 a gallon and houses were list- ing at over $400,000, but The Skagway News, which compiled all this information, was still hanging in there at six bits a copy.
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SUMMER 2022 TREE SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 5 Skagway Mining Co. 2nd Ave. across the street from the Train Station • Phone: (907)983-2015 Gold Rush Gifts 2nd Ave. across the street from the Train Station • Phone: (907)983-3921 WITH ANY $10 PURCHASE OR MORE REGULAR $4.99 Limit 1 per customer, per coupon, per store. Expires 10/19/2022 or while supplies last 2nd Avenue & Spring St. across from the Train Station 2NDAVENUE SHOPPIN€ [ALASKA TRAIN WHISTLE FREE WITH ANY PURCHASE REG. $1.99 ALASKA ECO FRIENDLY I SHOPPING BAG OR $4.99 EACH Everyday Low Price! 3 colors to choose from! ULU KNIFE AND CHOPPING BOWL I $7.99 PER SET WITH COUPON REG. SKAGWAY MINING I COMPANY 2ND AVENUE (907)983-2015 | Limit 1 per customer, per coupon. Expires 10/19/2022 or while supplies last. SKAGWAY MINING I COMPANY 2ND AVENUE (9071983-2015 | While supplies last. SKAGWAY MINING I COMPANY 2ND AVENUE (9071983-2015 | Limit 4 per customer, per coupon. Expires 10/19/202 or while supplies last 3D SKAGWAY BOOKMARK FREE WITH ANY PURCHASE REG. ALASKA GOLD FLAKE PEN SKAGWAY S O PING BAG FREE 2ND SPRING ST. (9071983-3921 Limit 1 per customer, per coupon. Expires I 10/ 19/2022 or while supplies last. SKAGWAY S O PING BAG FREE for SIO 2ND a SPRINGST. (9071983-3921 OR $4.99 EACH Everyday Low Price! ALASKA POLAR FLEECE VEST 9.99 WITH COUPON REG. 2 colors to choose from! While supplies last. SKAGWAY S O PING BAG 2ND a ST. [9071983-3921 Limit 2 per customer, per coupon. Expires 10/19/2022 or while supplies last.
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Page 6 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 SKAGWAY OSTRACIZES TLINGIT MOTHER AND CHILDREN continued from page 3 "They [Lingft Saayf's family] didn't go to Skagway. Skagway was a racist white town," Henry said. The Moores also didn 't have sup- port from Ben's father. "Ben marrying Minnie cooled that relationship with his father," Henry said. "He called her a squaw." Despite their wealth from the wharf and land claims, their well-furnished home and Lingft Saayfs high Victorian fashion, the Moores also faced racism from the steadily rising population of new arrivals. "The majority of people who came up to Skagway in an attempt to get to the Klondike gold fields were not well-traveled or educated. They had never seen people who looked different than themselves," said Johanna Evans, former Nation- al Park Service employee and Skag- way history buff. Evans said the children endured racial slurs, thrown rocks and being tripped. "They had to go through the gauntlet," Henry said. By 1900, the two oldest children were in Tacoma, attending boarding schools, a far distance from the ill treatment their mother continued to receive. "Although the number of women in turn-of-the-century Skagway was three times less than the number of men, Minnie was deliberately ex- cluded from the normal clubs, card parties and charity events," wrote Doreen C. Cooper, in the National Park Service's, "A Century at the Moore/Kirmse House." "She pretty much stayed clois- tered in her home," Henry said. "She was thrown into the white world where all she knew was the Tlingit world ... In Skagway, there was nobody to talk to," he added. In 1906, the remaining members of the family relocated to Tacoma, probably to escape Skagway's so- cially hostile environment. In 1909, Lingft Saayf filed for divorce, citing abuse, cruelty and her husband's mismanagement of money. Because her name had always been included on deeds, an unusual arrangement for a woman, particularly a minori- ty woman, she received half of the assets. Lingft Saayf's mother died some- time during the gold rush and her father passed away in 1908. Con- tact between her Klukwan family appears limited after the move to Skagway and there is no indication the Moore children were introduced to their mother's village. Following the divorce, Lingft Saayf moved to Victoria in 1910 and remarried a man of Dutch descent. She com- mitted suicide in 1917 after an ar- gument with her husband. "Mother was never very happy," Frances said at the inquest. "I have heard her threaten to do away with herself quite a while ago." continued on page 7 Skagway Museum, Dedman Collection Carnation the Moose, Edith Gertrude Moore and Ben Moore in front of the Moore House, Fifth Avenue and Spring, Skagway, Alaska, in 1900. SKAGWAY BREWING COMPANY Delicious Pub-Fare, Handcrafted Ales, 4th Ave. Just off Broadway Gift Shop, Outdoor Covered Beer Garden, Familv Friendly, Veg & GF Options, Greens Grown on Premise BEER-FOOD-SPIRITS SKAGWAY Co. 59a BREWING BLONDE SKAGWAY BREWING CO • ALAS" et some eer go! SKAGWAY SKAGW "EWING COW SKAGWAY BREWINGCc Alaskan a u IS'hl& Chips, [ÖcäTTSalmonZl
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SUMMER 2022 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 7 LINCiT SAAYi'S STORY 'YET TO BE TOLD' SAYS LOCAL TRIBE continued from page 6 Ben died in 1919, having lost most of his money in bad invest- ments and regretting that he emi- grated from Alaska. While he left behind documents that would later become a book, there is no known written record from Lingft Saayf, although she wrote consistently to her brother, Louis Shotridge, an ethnographer for the University of Pennsylvania, and a controversial figure in his Native community. Much of the information concern- ing the Moores is from the perspec- tive of Ben and Captain Moore, white men afforded the privilege of directing the historical narrative. "We have no first-hand accounts [about this topic] from the First Na- tion people," Evans said. Evans, born and raised in Juneau, is not of Native descent, and was at first hesitant to comment publicly on the topic of Lingft Saayf. "I very much believe in allowing people to tell their own story. It is not my place to tell another culture's story," she said. After informal con- versations with members of Skag- way Traditional Council (STC), she agreed to speak with The Skaguay Alaskan. Evans, normally a "madame" for the Red Onion, spent time in the re- stored Moore House on 400 Spring Street in the summer of 2021 when she worked for the Park Service during COVID-19. She said that time ignited a curiosity and in- spired, "my research, my opinions, my personal interest in Klingit-Sai- Yat." The Skaguay Alaskan reached out to various Tlingit entities regarding this article. STC, a federally recog- nized tribal government, responded with the following statement. "Currently, STC continues to re- search, trace and gather the tribal side of various Skagway stories and voices; however, at this time, we do not have enough resources to en- dorse accuracy of stories covered in the Klinget-sai-yat article," said Sara Kinjo-Hischer, STC tribal ad- ministrator. "We believe that Klin- get-sai-yat's side of the story has yet to be told." Lingft Saayf's narrative most like- ly wasn't preserved by her descen- dants, some of whom were not even aware of their Native bloodline. Cooper noted in her article that, "Even today, her grandchildren know much more about their Moore family background, but little about their Tlingit heritage." For Evans, the most tragic part of the story is the psychological trau- ma the wife and mother had to en- dure over and over. "Klingit-sai-yat is trying to build community here. She is trying to have a good life. She is trying to fit in. She is rejected over and over," Evans said. "She was extremely elevated in her own community. She was sup- posed to have a future of matriar- chal respect. Instead, she was torn down," Evans continued. When the Moores first settled in Skagway as a family, they lived in the small cabin that had been used to stake a claim, before eventually building and adding on to what be- came an enviable wood-built house. "The restored homestead enables visitors to better understand the rapid changes faced by the Moores during Skagway's development from the rough log cabin to the Vic- torian house complete with piano and electricity," Cooper wrote. The homestead may also be a symbol of how quickly the Moore's relationship changed under the in- flux of prejudice and societal ex- pectations that arrived with the gold rush. More details about the life and perspective of Lingft Saayf might be lost in a nation with a history of Native erasure. Glimpses of the matriarch can be found in Ben's brief mentions of her in his diary, a divorce document, the handmade clothes turned to rags she used to chink the logs in the original Moore cabin. It's not much of a monument to a woman who endured separation and abuse. "The gold rush changed the trajec- tory of her life, and not for the bet- ter," Evans said. "She was exposed to some of the most abominable be- havior and tried to move away, tried to re-marry, tried to find a way to exist in this holier-than-thou culture that had no idea of the beautiful, abundant culture and life she had in Klukwan. Her resiliency did shine through; her many attempts to piv- ot, to learn, to adapt — but in the end — it feels like those efforts weren't really acknowledged or valued." Lance Twitchell, Alas- ka Native language associate pro- fessor at the University of Alaska Southeast, noted that Köox ' Dave Strong from Klukwan references Klinget-sai-yat as Lingit Saayi. ** Twitchell provided this "more accurate " translation ofShg _agwei. 4. National Park Service KLGO 0004.006.001.0003. Klinget-sai-yet and children. Thank you to Melissa (Lissa) Kramer, curator for the Klondike Gold Rush Na- tional Historical Park, National Park Service, and her staff, for assistance ob- taining photographs and research materials. Two Hild.ng Trails Within Minutes of Downtown Dewey Lakes Trail System • Walk east on 3rd Ave. by the Westmark Inn until the railroad tracks. Trail begins on the other side of the tracks. Follow signs to Lower Dewey Lake (0.7 miles), Icy Lake (2.5 miles), Upper Reid Falls (3.5 miles), Sturgill's Landing (4.5 miles), Upper Dew- ey Lake (3.5 miles), and the Devil's Punch Bowl (4.2 miles). The trail to Lower Dewey Lake and return is a pleasant hour's walk, though the switchback trail can be a bit steep in sections. Trails around the lake are fairly flat. Continuing north to Icy Lake and Reid Falls or south to Stur- gill's (an old wood camp by the bay) will add 2-3 hours. Camping and picnic sites abound. The hike to Upper Dewey Lake and Devil's Punch Bowl is much steeper, great for a day hike or overnight trip. The cabin at Upper Lake may be booked at skagwayrecreation.org.Lakes are stocked with trout. Skyline Trail to AB Mountain • Trail begins at Mile 3 on the Dyea Road and ascends AB Mountain. Allow at least five hours round trip for this often strenuous hike. Beautiful views of Skagway, Dyea, Lynn Ca- nal, Haines and Chilkat Range. For detailed information about these and other more remote trails, pick up a Skagway Trail Map/Brochure at the A.B. Hall or Klondike Gold Rush NHP visitor centers in downtown Skagway. Skaguay Alaskan 2022 Published every Summer with the exception of 2020 due to the pandemic. Printed in Wasilla, Alaska The Skagway News PO Box 244, Skagway, Alaska 99840 www.skagwaynews.com Copyrighte 2022 by Taiya Communications, LLC ALASKA SHOPPE ALASKAN MADE GIFTS Apparel, Jewelry, Knives, Ulus, Fur, and Antler Items. ALASKAN OWNED AND OPERATED 490 BROADWAY, SKAGWAY, AK
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Page 8 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 Skagway Traditional Council: Modern Tribal Government in Historic Setting By Dr. X'unei Lance Twitchell The history of Skagway is com- plex. Like many places throughout the United States, what is viewed as discovery and opportunity for wealth from the perspective of American culture is in reality the in- vasion of the traditional territory of an indigenous population. Many or- ganizations celebrate the gold rush of Alaska without ever recognizing that it marks a time of tremendous suffering, loss and the onset of op- pression for Skagway's first people. Despite this, the Tribe is attempting to bridge the gaps that exist in and around our community from a tribal perspective; many of which origi- nated with the gold rush. Over the last hundred years, the geological and cultural landscape of Skagway has changed dramatically. Once a small valley full of trees and natural streams; modern Skagway is a collection of historic facades, gravel landfill and sizable docks that stretch out like fingers towards oncoming tourists. This place was once a vital bridge between coast- al and interior indigenous groups, who relied upon routes into the in- terior to trade the riches of the sea for those of the land. Inland groups savored preserved salmon, fish and seal oils and sea vegetation; and bartered with invaluable copper, moose and caribou meat and hides. To this day, trade continues with coastal and inland tribal groups. These activities, until recently, had all but subsided because of the United States-Canada border, which effectively separated fami- lies, tribes and traditional relation- ships due to regulations and a reluc- tance to recognize cross-boundary indigenous rights and relationships. Recent meetings between the Skag- way Traditional Council (STC) and the Carcross-Tagish First Nations have begun to address and resolve cross-border issues including tradi- tional trading practices, historical migration patterns and the use and ownership of the Chilkoot Trail. The STC is a federally recognized Indian Tribe pursuant to the Indian Reorganization Act of 1934, and is the governing body for Alaska Na- tive and American Indian activities in the Skagway area. This means that the STC is a domestic sover- Photo by Melinda Munson The STC sponsors many community initiatives. Here, STC Environmental Tech- nician Eliza Myers works near the airport removing invasive white sweet clover. See the Sights. Buy the Shirts. eign body within the United States that has an inherent right to govern activities involving tribal members and the traditional tribal territory of Skagway's indigenous Tlingit pop- ulation. The Tribe has been strongly active since 1999, and recently con- structed a 3,600 square foot Native community center. The building was given the name: Héen Agunatåani Hit, which is "whitecaps on the Water House," referring to an interpretation of the name Shgagwéi. To commemorate the event, the STC distributed 100 white baseball caps with the name of the building embroidered on the front. The dedication of the build- ing was a true celebration, as the entire community helped breathe life into the only structure the Na- tive community has owned in over a hundred years. In all things, there is progress , and our people have always lived our life by the tides. The tide had gone out on our people in our ancestral land, but it has now returned. It is a wonderful time to be alive; to see young people learning our endan- gered language, to see them danc- ing and understanding who they are by their heritage. And the sharing of this helps our entire community grow. Thank you for visiting, and for taking time to learn about Skag- way's first people. Dr. X "unei Lance Twitchell , raised in Skagway, is an Alaska Native language associate professor at the University of Alaska Southeast. He is a storyteller, poet and formline artist. He also serves on the orga- nizing faculty of Skagway's North- words Writers Symposium. very omeb me ent all he to get me this t-shirt Great Alaska-wear for everyone n your gift list! Our famous Somebody Loves Me hirts at our everyday low price. In Adult and Kid sizes. How to locate our advertisers The Skaguay Alaskan is supported by the commercial entities of our city through advertising dollars. This allows the paper to be circulated free of charge by our newsies, under the watchful eye of Melinda and Gretchen, who try to keep the paper to an historic 1898 format, hence no color advertising. It is also circulated on the ferries, the airport and at various locations around Skagway, Alaska and the Yukon. To easily locate our advertisers, simply locate the map key number in the ad below is our number and then find the establishment on the map on the back page of the Alaskan. LUCY'S BAKERY Mention this ad and get Everything made from scratch Cupcakes Cinnamon Rolls Cookies Bread and more! 77 Practically on the railroad tracks 1st & Broadway m 100/00ff Come visit us at 5th & State
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Page 10 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 Peace and laughter on the boardwalk By Gretchen Wehmhoff Standing next to the Skagway News Depot, I watched a family of ravens teach their offspring the tricks of ravenhood. Today's lesson covered how to hang onto a utility wire. A younger bird kept moving in on the parent, who cawed for it to pick its own wire. After a minute or so of testing mom or dad, the fledgling took the leap to the wire a foot away. It made contact at first, until it couldn't keep its balance. The bird struggled to get its feet secure around the wire, but slipped and swung around in circles, much like a child spinning on their knees on bars on the playground. It found its balance again, trying to hang onto the much narrower wire, then spun forward and found itself hang- ing upside down, wings awry with not many choices but to let go. It dropped and rolled mid fall, catch- ing the wind to fly to the roof across the street where the rest of the fam- ily watched. Life around the boardwalk never lets me down. Sitting on the bench underneath the stairs to the news office has become a highlight for me. I love conversations. Almost everyone passing by has a story to chat over. I've met many locals, people from hot parts of the Lower 48 who came to cool off and families on reunion voyages. There is a solid sense of peace in this town. People say "hey" as they walk by and Athena has received an abundance of attention as tourists and locals alike stop to scratch her behind the ears and talk about the dogs they left at home. I love the wind, the rain, the sun and the people here. Next week my husband will arrive to work for six weeks and I hope he finds the same peace I do. I've enjoyed getting to know lo- cals over the winter, on Facebook, and in passing. Now I get to see everyone doing their summer rou- tine and it is exciting. Even walking EXPLORE ALASKA EXPLORÜ WIDE OPEN WILDERNESS Drop by our visitor center located on 2nd & Broadway! down the sidewalk, excitement can surprise you. A few days ago I took Athena out to do her duty, then headed back to the boardwalk, carrying a clear plas- tic bag of her business. As I came close to Tayia Fine Arts, I saw Katie setting up for the day, the door open for business. At the same moment, a group of tourists hovered near the Mascot Saloon. For a split second I weighed my choices say hi to Katie with a bag of poop, or get to the trash can before the visitors met up with me. It only takes a moment for your dog to read your intentions. Mine chose to visit Katie while I made the move to head for the trash can. I floundered over Athena in a dra- matic roll. Katie saw me fall and later said it was in slow motion, like I knew I was going down. When you get to a certain age, you learn awareness of the fall. Don't put out your hands (avoid broken wrists), tuck your head and try to roll to your butt, which in my case, gives me the most protection. I must have called out in surprise because I found myself lying on the cruise visitors and Katie. A woman offered her hands, but I was afraid I'd pull her down with me. So, in a not-so-graceful move, I pointed my rear end up towards our guests and walked my way up with my hands. The helpful woman straight- ened the front of me, and as I turned around, Katie gently pulled my hair out of my face. Concerned faces were everywhere. I'm pretty sure Athena was getting equal attention. I smiled and said thanks. It was at that moment I realized something was missing. I looked around the ground be- CYhite O$kyö, Alok-T At the White House Inn Skagway AK Located on the SE corner of 8th Ave and Main St. This historic home (built in 1902) is locally owned and operated year-round offering guests all the conveniences of a modern inn while maintaining the quiet, relaxing com- forts of home. Every room has a private bath, TV & wireless internet. Non-smoking/No pets. Breakfast not provided. PO Box 163, Skagway, Alaska 99840 (907)983-9000 110 www.atthewhitehouse.com tween people's feet, trying not to call attention to the fact that I was missing the very thing I was trying to hide before I met them. My eyes landed on it. It had flown into the street, just off the boardwalk. Suddenly, smart shoes and an el- egant dress took commanding steps off the boardwalk, missed the bag by inches, and the owner of the shoes greeted the group of good Samaritans on the other side of our small pod. It was Cooper, trying to retain her "Madame" walking tour that I had accidentally hijacked. "You ought to put some ice on that knee, Gretchen," she confident- ly advised. With that she led her group of clients down the alley like the pied piper. By this time Melinda had made it down the stairs to see what had hap- pened. Denise and Billi had stepped out of their storefronts to check on the commotion or laughter. I was sure I would be sore the next day, but there was some slapstick humor in it all. As I turned to talk to Melinda, the woman from the tour group who "I believe this belongs to you," she grinned. She handed me the bag of dog poop, holding it carefully with her thumb and forefinger. I think she saw the humor as well I think. Gretchen Wehmhoff is co-owner of The Skagway News. This sto- ry is one of a collection that was awarded first place for 2021 Best Humor by the Alaska Press Club. That makes her the funniest person in Alaska, or so she tells us. Read more content by Wehmhoff at skag- waynews.com. HARDWARE WE HAVE THE SUPPLIES YOU NEED Luggage . Travel Accessories RV . Boating . Camping . Fishing Hunting . Household Sporting Goods ON THE CORNER OF 4TH & BROADWAY (907)983-2233 . [email protected] SKAGWAY.COM 907-983-2854 ACE Hardware 59
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SUMMER 2022 By "Scruff" McBrady Cub Reporter on the Trail SKAGUAY ALASKAN Dispatches from the Chilkoot Trail -World's Longest Museum- Page 11 The above description by our gold rush col- league more than a century ago paints the image that he saw as he approached the Scales, looking up to the summit of the Chilkoot Pass. The long line of some 40,000 men and women, captured in many photographs, continued for another year. The history of that incredible journey is pre- served today by the park services of the United States and Canada. One can still hike the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, which begins at Dyea and ends at Lake Bennett. Hiking the Chilkoot is something the former editor of this sheet does at least once every five years to "help bring Skagway back into its his- torical perspective, and to preserve the sanity." And believe it, the latter is a tall order. The trail is not only good therapy an escape from the hustle and bustle of the Skagway metropolis - it's an enriching experience that perfectly blends history and beautiful scenery. The Chilkoot, selected as Alaska's first U.S. Millennium Trail, is a museum of the Klondike Gold Rush. And like most museums, one is al- lowed to observe, but not touch. If caught taking an artifact, the penalties are stiff. But what's dif- ferent about this museum is how participants go through it retracing history with a heavy pack on their backs. The best way is to plan ahead, be Trail information can be secured at the Chilkoot Trail Center in the restored Boss Bak- ery Building on Broadway between 5th and 6th. It is open daily, 8 a.m. to 12 p.m., and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Those hiking the entire trail must obtain a backcountry permit and pay a registration fee and reservation fee. For permit pricing informa- tion, stop by the Trail Center or call 1-800-661- 0486 for reservations. Local shuttles can pick up hikers by the Trail Center and drive them over the nine-mile road to Dyea (best to travel in a group to save mon- ey). The trailhead is to the right, just before the road crosses the Taiya River bridge. The trail is well-maintained and historical photograph trail markers help interested parties compare the views of 1897-98 with the ones seen today. When undertaking an inaugural Chilkoot, it's best to take four to five days and absorb it all. This hiking correspondent, a veteran of more than a dozen Chilkoot missions, recommends camping stops at Finnegan's Point or Canyon City (glacier views, shelter and ruins), Sheep Camp (shelter, ruins and ghosts), Happy Camp (cooking shelter and sharing summit stories) and Bare Loon Lake (swimming) on the first trip. For a faster three-day hike, plan camping stops at Pleasant Camp (nice tent sites), Happy Camp or Deep Lake (good water and berry picking) and either Lindeman (shelters and tent museum) or "The eye catches the movement. The mountain is alive. There is a continuous moving train; they are perceptible only by their movement, just as ants are.... They are human beings, but never did men look so small. " — Tappan Adney, reporting for Harper's Weekly, September 1897 University of Washington photo Bennett (old church, depot and interpretive ex- hibits). Don't miss the little tent museum at Lin- deman. Inside, visitors will receive a certificate naming them as one of the 2,000 or more who hiked the Chilkoot this year. At trail's end, adventurers will have sore feet and a need for a shower. But the discomfort is worth it, and hikers will probably want to do the Chilkoot again some time, and take along more friends. And if they're made of the same stuff as this retired editor, they may keep coming back until they have their ton of gear packed over the pass. The "Cub Scruff, " now more than halfa cen- tury young, still leads hikes and paddles for family, friends and wayward journalists. Read his award-winning journal from the summer 2010 hike with his son at: www.skagwaynews. prepared and take it slow. coo • SERVING ALASKA • Classic r:r-c ALASKA COMMERCIALCO. Serving Alaskans Since 1867 Doritos nACHO CHEESE ENERG and VVÆåENlf Welcome to Skagway! AC Fairway Market is your one-stop shop for groceries, drinks, snacks, health and beauty products. Hours of Operation: Monday- Friday 8:00 AM - 8:00 PM Saturday-Sunday 9:00 AM - 8:OOPM 377 State st, Skagway, AK 99840 53 PANTENE Colgate 12vvi AC Fairway Market,
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Page 12 From left, Skookum Jim and Captain Moore; Soapy and gang in Jeff. Smiths Parlor; first school kids outside Union Church; train rumbles down Broadway circa 1908; President Harding visits in 1923. Skagway's First Century: Historical Timeline Compiled by Jeff Brady Pre-1887 Skaqua or Shgag- wéi, as it is known by the Tlingit, a windy place with "white caps on the water," is used by Chilkoots and Chilkats for hunting and fishing. A few of these Native Alaskans settle in the quieter areas of Smuggler's Cove, Nahku Bay and Dyea, head of the Chilkoot trail, a centuries-old Native trading route becoming pop- ular with early prospectors heading into the Yukon. In the 1880s, U.S. Navy and Army patrols establish federal presence in the area. 1887 - In June, Skookum Jim, a Tlingit packer from Dyea and Tagish, leads Capt. William Moore, a member of a Canadian survey par- ty, over a new pass up the Skaqua river valley. It is later named White Pass for the Canadian Interior min- ister. In October, Moore returns with son, Bernard. They lay claim to 160 acres and begin work on a cabin and dock for "Mooresville." 1894-95 - Northwest Mounted Police patrol lands in area on way to Yukon to establish Canadian presence. Early prospectors take Moore's crude trail over White Pass. 1896 - On Aug. 16-17, gold is dis- covered by Skookum Jim, George W. Carmack and Dawson Charlie on Rabbit Creek, later called Bo- nanza, a tributary of the Klondike River, 600 miles from Skagway. They stake their claim to history. 1897 - Moore opens trail on July 14, just before steamships arrive in San Francisco and Seattle with famed "Ton of Gold," setting off Klondike Gold Rush. On July 29, the steamer Queen lands at Moore's wharf, the first of many stuffed with hundreds of gold seekers. The Moores are overrun: Mooresville is re-platted by surveyor Frank Reid as Skaguay. Later that fall, a post office, church and newspaper (Skaguay News) are established. Many pack animals perish on crude "Dead Horse Trail" out of Skagway. George Brackett builds toll road to White Pass City, a tent city 15 miles up the valley. 1898 - Skagway booms to near- ly 10,000 population. Daily Alas- kan newspaper appears. Chamber of commerce and volunteer fire department organize. Close Broth- ers of London buy out Brackett for railroad line. Construction begins in May on White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad. Unofficial city govern- ment forms and allows railroad tracks up Broadway. First school opens in Union Church in June. Criminal gang led by Soapy Smith reigns until he is shot and killed by an angry mob led by Frank Reid on July 8, four days after Smith stood on the podium with governor at Skagway's first Independence Day celebration. U .S. Army, stationed in Dyea, restores order. Reid dies and gets a hero's funeral at town ceme- tery. Spelling changed to Skagway by post office, and most business- es follow. Townspeople are called Skagwayans. 1899 - Railroad crews advance to summit and reach Lake Bennett in July. Building boom continues with construction of Arctic Broth- erhood Hall and McCabe College (on land donated by Capt. Moore). He builds his own showplace home nearby. Some buildings are shipped over from declining Dyea. New school built on 11th. City becomes fire-weary after seven downtown buildings are destroyed, and a forest fire burns the Army post near Dyea. The troops, most of them Black, move to Skagway. 1900 - Census records 3,117 res- idents. On June 28, Skagway be- comes the first incorporated city in Alaska on a vote of eligible proper- ty owners, 246-60. It beats Juneau by a day. On July 29, the WP&YR is completed between Skagway and Whitehorse with a golden spike ceremony at Carcross, Yukon. WP&YR depot and hospital con- structed. 1901-02 - McCabe College closes and federal government buys it for courthouse. H.D. Clark farm estab- lished across river. Charley Walker sends vegetable display to Portland Exhibition. Moore town site claim settled, Moores get 60 of original 160 acres and compensation. Harri- et Pullen purchases Moore's stately home and opens Pullen House. Her- man Kirmse organizes first garden show in 1902. On Sept. 14, a man attempts to rob the Canadian Impe- rial Bank of Commerce branch on Fifth and blows himself up by acci- dent, along with cash and gold dust, some of which is recovered after mining the street. The man is never identified. Dentist L.S. Keller ends up with skull. Army troops begin work on Fort Seward near Haines, where they will be transferred in 1904. 1903-05 - International Boundary dispute settled in 1903 with bor- ders set at tops of mountain passes. Skagway News closes, leaving only the Daily Alaskan. Bobby Sheldon, 22, builds first automobile in Alaska for 1905 Fourth of July parade. He will later drive first car over Alas- ka's first highway from Fairbanks to Valdez. Skagwayans discuss a road to eventually connect with the Valdez road. 1908-10 - Several buildings relo- cated to Broadway from other parts of city to develop business district along rail line, including Red Onion Saloon and the Golden North Hotel, owned by the Dedman family. 1912-13 - Fire on hillside above Lower Dewey Lake destroys P.E. Kern's Castle, a hotel in the woods. J .M. "Si" Tanner, a popular marshal and hardware store owner, is elect- ed to Alaska's first Territorial Leg- islature in 1913. 1914 - Major Richardson of Alaska Road Commission approves rough four-mile road up east side of river. 1915-17 - Alaska Women's Tem- perance Union meets in Skagway and writes "Alaska Bone Dry Act," which Legislature will later adopt ahead of national prohibition. Mar- tin Itjen operates Skagway Hack, doubling as a taxi and coal truck. His business will evolve into the popular Skaguay Street Car Co. Itjen acquires Soapy's Parlor for a museum; one of his artifacts is the bank robber's skull acquired from Dr. Keller, who has taken over the fledgling Alaskan. Keller coins the term "Garden City of Alaska." New Bank of Alaska opens in 1916. It will pioneer branch banking and grow under the Rasmuson fami- ly into the largest bank in Alaska. Itjen's friend, George Rapuzzi, es- tablishes Pet Cemetery across river where his dog loved to chase rab- bits. 1918-19 - Saloons close. On Oct. 23 , SS Princess Sophia leaves Skag- way with more than 350 aboard. She strikes Vanderbilt Reef in a blinding snowstorm near Juneau. Captain gambles on tide lifting ship off reef. After two days of weath- er deemed too rough for a rescue by smaller boats, she breaks apart and all aboard perish. After dodg- ing the first wave of the Spanish flu that winter, Skagway lets its guard down and loses three residents in the spring of 2019. Skagway Women 's 1920-22 Club forms in 1920 and establishes Skagway Library in 1921. First air- plane lands on beach. 1923- President Warren G. Hard- ing visits Skagway on Navy ship on July 11, 1923. He delivers address at the Pullen House and is the final in- ductee into the Arctic Brotherhood. George Rapuzzi, a member of the Alpine Club, climbs the mountain opposite Skagway and flashes pres- idential party with mirrors from the summit. Peak hereafter is named Mt. Harding for the president who would die shortly after his return from Alaska. Daily Alaskan shuts down after the death of publisher Keller. 1924-30 - Beginning of first tour- ism boom heralded by visible pro- moters Itjen and Pullen, along with WP&YR, which convinces ships to stay 36 hours so visitors may ride the train and take a Yukon lake steamer trip from Carcross to beau- tiful Ben-My-Chree. As a fund-rais- er for the hockey club, townspeople hold a variety show for tourists at the White Pass Athletic Club. It will become the Days of '98 Show and move to the Eagles after the athlet- ic club shuts down during the Great Depression. 1931 - St. Pius X Mission is es- tablished in Skagway under the wing of Father G. Edgar Gallant, who will operate the school for Na- tive children from across Alaska for almost 30 years. 1932 - White Pass roundhouse burns Feb. 12. 1933-34 - Idea for a Gold Rush
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From left, Maggie Kadanah, wife of a Tlingit chief; early members of the '98 Show cast; Liarsville sanitarium after war boom in 1945; big obstacle on the highway job; centennial stamp dedication. Young City Survives - 'Tis No Mushroom Growth National Park in Skagway is first promoted by Chamber of Com- merce. Prohibition repealed. First airfield constructed from 13th to 22nd Avenues along Main Street. 1935 - In a heavily promoted vis- it, Martin Itjen calls on sexy starlet Mae West in Hollywood, invites her to "come up and see me sometime" in Skagway. Town hosts first con- vention as Newspaper Institute of America delegates arrive on ship. 1939 - Women's Club raises $25 ,000 from Territory and $24,500 from federal Works Progress Ad- ministration to build a new school. It opens in 1940 behind the old one at State and 11th. 1942-44 - Skagway is literally invaded by U.S. Army troops, who take over the railroad for a ma- jor supply route to build the Alcan Highway. Three thousand troops are stationed here, and as many as 20 trains a day climb the pass. A pipeline is constructed along rail- way for fuel shipments. Army takes over fire department and promises 24-hour service, however major fires devastate ornate Elks lodge and Pullen House. Army has bet- ter luck assisting community when the Skagway River crests its banks twice and floods parts of the city. 1945 - After troops leave Skag- way, U.S. Health Service opens a 90-patient tuberculosis sanitarium in the army hospital across the riv- er. Nurses come from Sisters of St. Ann in Victoria, B.C. It closes in 1947. 1946-50 - WP&YR takes back railroad and assumes fuel operation. Tracks are removed from Broad- way in 1947. A fire almost destroys the Mission School. Dyea Road constructed by Alaska Road Com- mission. Tourism pioneers Itjen and Pullen pass on. Pullen House even- tually closes, but Rapuzzi keeps It- jen's dream alive at Soapy's. 1951 - White Pass becomes a pi- oneer in the shipping industry with containerized cargo: from the docks in Vancouver, loaded on the ship Clifford J. Rogers (first container ship in the world) for the journey to Skagway, then onto trains bound for its destination in Whitehorse. 1952 - Aluminum Company of America (ALCOA) announces plans to build a $400 million smelt- er in Dyea, powered by the mighty Tyee Project, a proposal to reverse the flow of the Yukon River with a dam in Whitehorse, and thence using that water from Yukon lakes through two tunnels down the old Chilkoot Trail to power the smelter. A "mighty city of 20,000" will be needed to support the plant, which will need 20,000 acres in the valley floor. Juneau Empire starts week- ly Skagway Alaskan newspaper. Townspeople are called Skagway- ites. 1953 - ALCOA dream fades as negotiations fail to convince Cana- dians they would receive benefits of cheap power from the Tyee Project. Alternatives explored and Yukon later builds its own dam at White- horse Rapids. Newspaper promotes road to Carcross. 1954-55 - Railroad takes delivery of first two diesel-electric engines, in addition to new flat cars and tanker cars. Alaskan merges with Haines Herald to become Lynn Ca- nal Weekly. ARC completes quar- ter-mile extension of road to Black Lake. But it won't go further until Canadians support a road from Car- cross to the border. 1956-60 - City of Skagway pur- chases McCabe building from fed- eral government in 1956 for offices. ALCOA formally abandons smelter plans in 1957. Alaska and Skagway celebrate statehood in 1959, and Morgan Reed is elected to first of four terms in the State Legislature. Monsignor Gallant is transferred to Anchorage that year and the mis- Sion school closes without his lead- ership in 1960. 1961-62 - Another mile of road is built "to modern standards" to the sheer rock face past Black Lake. Upstairs of McCabe converted into the Trail of '98 Museum, using many artifacts donated by Skag- way families. Work begins again on national park after State of Alaska shows interest. State selects land in Dyea valley for recreational use. Cy Coyne starts monthly North Wind newspaper. 1963-66 - First Alaska Marine Highway ferry arrives. Rep. Reed teams up with Sen. Elton Engstrom to pass bill to form Yukon-Taiya Commission and revive Tyee Proj- ect if state's Rampart Dam doesn't materialize. Chamber of Commerce organizes Clean Sweep. 1967 - Skagway River floods. Dikes breached and Pullen Creek culvert washes out. Gov. Wally Hickel flies up to inspect damage. White Pass Hospital closes after serving community for 69 years, and city begins work on new Dahl Memorial Clinic, named for long- time doctor P.I. Dahl, which opens in 1968. 1968-69 - WP&YR builds new depot. Plans announced for Cyprus Anvil mine near Faro, Yukon, lead- ing White Pass to upgrade its track and equipment for a huge lead-zinc haul. Company officials convince city council to grant 55-year tide- lands lease for a new ore terminal and dock. White Pass roundhouse burns again in 1969. 1970-72 - Road support builds on both sides of border. Canadians build new bridge in Carcross and extend road to B.C.-Yukon border in 1971 with activity at Venus Mine. In 1972 Canadians agree to build remaining 33.6 miles to Alaska bor- der, and Alaska agrees to construct their 9.4 miles. It will be called the South Klondike Highway. Park master plan is developed. White Pass donates old depot to Nation- al Park Foundation. Yukon-Taiya Commission disbands. 1973 - White Pass sold to Fed- eral Industries. Alaska Congressio- nal Delegation introduces first bills establishing Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Final road surveys completed. First seasonal park rangers appear on Chilkoot Trail under authority of Glacier Bay National Monument. 1974-75- A $10.9 million contract is awarded to Central Construction of Seattle, a company affiliated with one of Alaska's new Native corpo- rations, for the Alaska portion of the Klondike Highway. Construction to take three years. 1976-77 - Congress passes park legislation in June 1976 and super- intendent and historical architect arrive. A temporary visitor cen- ter opens in the old depot, and the park is dedicated in Skagway in June 1977. The park includes four components: Skagway unit, Dyea- Chilkoot unit, White Pass unit and Seattle-Pioneer Square unit. City forms Historic District Commis- slon. 1978-1979 - Modern Skagway News started by Jeff Brady after North Wind retires. Taiya Riv- er threatens old Native cemetery in Dyea, and first story the paper covers is controversial removal of remains by National Park Service to an area near the Slide Ceme- tery. Klondike Highway is punched through to border in September. Highway officially opens in spring. Final cost: $14.4 million on U.S. side and $12.2 million in Canada. In July, a scary fire destroys Sour- dough Inn, Igloo Bar and a drug store, but S VFD prevents it from spreading. New city barge facility/ ferry terminal completed. 1980-81 - State-supported live satellite TV arrives along with public radio on KHNS. Skagway becomes base for Disney's "Never Cry Wolf' crew filming on White Pass. City hires tourism director to promote Skagway. Fish hatcheries started at Burro Creek and school. 1982 - Faro mines shut down in spring , and railroad loses 70 percent of its revenue. This doesn't stop the return of Steam Engine No. 73. Op- timism fades in fall as White Pass suspends rail operations on Oct. 8, sending Skagway into a deep de- pression. Unions picket and stop White Pass in Haines when compa- ny tries to truck freight to Yukon on Haines Highway. 1983-85 - White Pass announces it will not operate, even for sum- mers. Winter unemployment esti- mated at 70-80 percent. Newspa- per switches to monthly in winter. First running of Klondike Road Relay. Oil-rich state helps Skag- way with $8.5 million to construct a new school. Skagway lands Alas- ka Visitors Association convention and sees increase in number of cruise ships docking to more than 100. Park's first restoration project, the old White Pass railroad depot, continued on page 14
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Page 14 SKAGWAY HISTORY SKAGUAY ALASKAN is completed and opened for the park's visitor center and offices. Broadway gets "historic pavement" to cut down on dust. Garden Club forms and establishes competition, Order of Eastern Star starts annual flower and garden show. Voters ap- prove land sale along Dyea Road and houses spring up on hillside. Number of visitors tops 200,000. 1986-87 - Curragh, Inc. buys An- vil mine and announces it wants to truck concentrate to Skagway. Mayor Bill Feero breaks a tied city council in February 1986 and city requests state to open highway year-round. Gov. Bill Sheffield and Yukon government Leader Tony Penikett sign historic agreement in April. Trucks operated by Lyn- den roll in June. Number of cruise ships surpasses 200. Park restores more buildings and leases them to private businesses. City establish- es Centennial Committee in 1987 and park completes restoration of Moore cabin for its 100th anniver- sary. First Buckwheat Ski Classic joins Windfest as winter event. Pro- spective railroad buyers appear on scene and say railway would be a viable tourist operation. 1988 - On March 1, White Pass President Marvin Taylor announc- es the company has reached agree- ment with its unions to reopen the railroad for a summer tourist op- eration with 3-hour round-trips to the summit. Whistles blow all over KLONDIKE town as employees return to work. News goes back to twice monthly year-round. Alaska State Garden Club holds annual convention in Skagway. Year ends on scary note, as high lead levels are recorded in Skagway from past ore movement. School children are tested by public health officials, and blood levels are below normal. 1989-90 - Massive $6 million cleanup by "supersuckers" paid by Curragh and White Pass along waterfront, railroad and highway through town. Battle lines drawn on waterfront as White Pass pro- poses Broadway Dock west of ferry terminal, and Curragh tries to con- vince city to lease land for new ore dock and terminal east of ferry ter- minal. The latter fails when White Pass announces it will sell the ter- minal to the state's AIDEA to oper- ate. School's Pullen Creek hatchery program receives national award. 1991-92 - Ore terminal operates through Curragh strike in Yukon. Island Princess and Regent Sea col- lide in bay on way into port; mirac- ulously no one is seriously injured. Ships are repaired and return later that summer. New rules for harbor: ships must arrive an hour apart. Number of visitors tops 300,000 in 1992 during 50th anniversary of the building of the Alaska Highway. 1993-94 - Curragh wins big loan from Yukon Government to stay alive, then files Chapter 11. Termi- nal closes. Mine sold again to An- vil Range. City pushes for winter highway funding, with or without mine, and get assurances from state and territorial leaders. Good year for filming on pass: TV show "Due South" in spring and movie "Snow- bound: Jim and Jennifer Stolpa Story" in fall 1993. "Good Morn- ing America" visits in May. White Pass announces plans to revamp and lengthen its Railroad Dock but is plagued by three fuel spills from its pipeline. A worse disaster be- falls White Pass a month later when the dock collapses, sending a tid- al wave across the bay, uprooting the ferry dock and spinning it into the Broadway dock. One worker is killed. Damage to state dock and small boat harbor exceeds $1 mil- lion. 1995-96 - First cruise ship lands at rebuilt Railroad Dock on May 30. Adventure tour craze explodes with new operators and tours in Skagway and Dyea, and city ap- proves more helicopter landings on glaciers. Voters approve extending sales tax to tours and transportation. Visitor numbers surpass 400,000. Main part of old school torn down after 10 years of disrepair, but gym is saved for future recreation center. New border station opens on high- way. Ore trucks and ships return in the fall. City elects first female mayor, Sioux Plummer. Skagway connects to the Internet EWCZNTURY* including White Dye.. and the TOIL SKAGWAY CITY OF THE INEW CENTURY cornpiled & edited by Jeff Brady NEW IN 2019! Revised & Expanded edition nozv available in paperback! Culled originally from the pages of the Skaguay Alaskan, cornes the nxost complete and readable history of Skagway ever undertaken! "My history lovers pick of the summer. " 35 — Michael Gates, the History Hunter (Yukon News) 536 pages, more than 390 historic photos • revised & expanded softbound edition $24.95 Available all over Skagway and the north or from Lynn Canal Publishing at wvvw.skagwaybooks.com • 907-983-3354 OFF SIGNED HARDBOUND FIRST EDITIONS AT SKAGUAY NEWS DEPOT SUMMER 2022 1997-98 - Cominco purchases Anvil Range, but mine shuts and ore terminal closes again in April 1997. Ore terminal reopens in fall after mine opens again, only to close on Christmas after Anvil Range files for protection. How- ever, over next two years, city swells with pride during Klondike Gold Rush Centennial celebrations. White Pass also begins three years of centennial events. The compa- ny is spun off from Russell Metals/ Federal Industries and becomes part of new Tri-White Corp (later renamed ClubLink). Alaska Power and Telephone's Goat Lake Hydro project is completed. State releases Juneau Access study, favoring ei- ther a highway up the east side of Lynn Canal to Skagway or using daily fast ferries. Skagway leans toward better ferries, while Haines is adamantly opposed to a new road link. Juneau is split. 1999-2000 - Skagway Centennial Park is completed at 1st and Broad- way, featuring a statue depicting a Tlingit packer leading a gold rush prospector up the trail. White Pass and state settle suit over 1994 dock damage, with railroad to pay $1.875 million. Skagway is 16th most vis- ited cruise destination in the world with nearly 450 cruise calls. As vis- itor count approaches 750 ,000, city looks harder at dealing with im- pacts. Recreation center improve- ments completed, director hired and use expanded. The remainder of the town's streets are paved. Like the rest of the world, Skagway en- ters the new millennium with no bugs in its computers, and joins the cell phone age. McCabe Bldg. is restored for city centennial amidst construction delays, much like 100 years ago, and the city holds a big birthday party outside in June be- fore it moves in. WP&YR cele- brates its centennial in July with great fanfare in Carcross, hinting at a return some day. Townspeople start calling themselves Skagwe- gians. This timeline first appeared in the centennial edition of The Skagway News in 1997 and has been updat- ed over the years. For an expanded version up to the present, see Brady's book, "Skagway: City of the New Cen- tury" (Lynn Canal Publishing, 2018) or visit the history page at skagway. com. Photos: Skagway Museum, KGRN- HP, Brady collection
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SUMMER 2022 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 15 KLONDIKE COLD DISCOVERY CAME IN A DREAM 'flingit Storyteller As told by St Dennis Sr. from "Skagway: City of the New Century " I don't know how authentic this story is. It was told to my brother and me years ago by my mother. The story is about the two Tlingit Indians who found the gold that started the stampede that was later known as the Klondike Gold Rush. It's not the story of the gold rush itself, but events leading to the discovery of gold. The story goes like this. It seems that one of the men was out hunt- ing one day, and during his trav- els through the woods looking for game, he came upon a pool of wa- ter. He decided to rest by this pool, so he sat down. He noticed that this pool had high, steep sides, mostly clay, and it was awfully wet and slippery. And as he sat there, he noticed something moving in the murky water. He just sat there and watched it. It swam over to the side of the pool and started to climb out, and he noticed that it was a frog. Now the frog almost made it to the top before it slid back into the water. So the man just sat there and watched to see what it was going to do. The frog made several attempts with the same results, and he no- ticed that the frog was getting tired. He figured that the frog must have been trying for a long time. So the next time the frog started to climb out, the man walked over and lay down, reached out, grabbed hold of the frog, and took it out. He carried it over to a stream of water nearby and proceeded to wash the clay off the frog. While he was doing this he spoke to the frog like he was talking to another human being, telling him why he was out there, looking for game and food for his family. I don't know if the frog found him any luck in his hunting but that night when he went to sleep, he had a dream. He dreamt that he was standing by a body of water and as he stood there, he watched the frog swim directly toward him. When the frog got so close, it stood up and turned into a man like him- self, and this man started talking to him. He said, "You saved my life and now I want to repay you." And he pointed and said, "You see that mountain?" When the man looked, it was like looking into a big screen or picture, and he could see that mountain. Then the frog-man told him, "Study that mountain, memo- rize it. Because you're going to start off from here, and you're going to find that mountain, and that's where your luck is going to be." He tried to ask which direction he was sup- posed to be going, and the frog-man said, "Don't worry, you'll find it." So the next day, he told his friend about what he'd done with the frog the day before and about the dream he had. And his friend said, "Let's go and I'll go with you." So they got their provisions together and they took off. Their hunt went for days, looking for this mountain with no luck, and they traveled a good many miles away from home. They got down to the point where they had to take inventory to see what they had left. They were getting pretty low on their provisions and they knew they were a long ways from home. So they finally decided they were going to hunt one more day, and if they didn't find that mountain, they were going to start back for home. So the next day they started out. All this time, this one man had a feeling , for some reason, that he was always going in the right direction. And as the day wore on he became discouraged. Then, all of a sudden, he looked up, and he looked right at that mountain. He told his friend, "There it is." And his friend asked him, "Are you sure?" The man said, "That's the mountain. I recognize it." They went over there and discov- ered this gold that started the stam- pede that was later known as the Klondike Gold Rush. Si Dennis Sr., the grandson of a Tlingit packer, for years was elder Si Dennis, Sr. and wife, Dorothy of the local Native community. He "walked into the forest" in 1997. This story has been told in many forms over the years as a dream that came to gold discoverer Skoo- kum Jim Mason. Some accounts say the dream occurred in Dyea, where Jim and his family traveled to of- ten from their Tagish home. Two of his children are buried in the Dyea cemetery. Present with Skookum Jim at the discovery on August 16, 1896 were his nephew, Dawson Charlie, and brother-in-law, George Carmack (he had married Jim's sister Kate, who was nearby). Carmack, being the only white man in the party, filed the discovery claim on Rabbit Creek (now Bonanza), a tributary of the Klondike River near Dawson City. Jim and Charlie were given the ground above and below discovery. Many newspapers of the day and subsequent histories credited Car- mack with the discovery, but it was really a shared discovery in which Jim should be given the most credit. It was his dream after all. SKAGWAY ALASKA'S PREMIERESHOPP,ING EXPERIENCE S'...-a—-Y4. 43 Glacial Coffeehouse Serving fresh baked goods, organic espresso. & fresh fruit smoothies. Breakfast & lunch available. 3rd & Broadway A Fine Line Alaskan Gifts Representing 36 Alaskan artists 555 Broadway @ cÆE Corrington History of Alaska Scrimshaw Museum 3rd Broadway in the Golden North Hotel@ Ska"uay News Depot & Books Local independent bookstore featLring 800 Alaska/Yukon books. 208 Broadway @ Skagway Outlet Store FREE Train Whistle with $5 purchase! 7th & Broadway@ SKAGWAY Authentically renovated turn of the century buildings bring the excitement of the Gold Rush era _back to life BROADWAY Alaska Artworks Showcasing local Skag- way, Alaskan regional artists. 510 Broadway b/w 5th & 6th. 86a Alaska Knife & Ulu Huge variety Of Alaksa & USA made knives ulus. NE corner Of 7th & Broadway Bearllead Photography Gallery Alaskan nature photos by National Geographic photographer. Barrett Hedges. 7th & Broadway Skaguay News Depot • Alaska Artworks • agway Outlet Store • Bearhead Photography • ÄiåkkåKnife & Ulu • • Corrington Museum • A Fine Line
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Page 16 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 Finding a Fisherman's Paradise in Skagway By ANDREW CREMATA Fishing Correspondent For first time visitors, Skagway might seem but a narrow valley, hemmed in by mountains, snow and ice. Yet, there are a great many hid- den things that lie just beyond what is readily seen. There are narrow coves where families of otters drift lazily on the surf at the first light of day. Bald eagles scan wide expans- es of sandy flats that reveal them- selves with the ebbing tide. A short walk through the woods can reveal a hidden lake where mysterious rip- ples appear on the surface, a clue as to what might reside beneath. These are the places where pris- tine image of Alaska, sold in the brochures and on the Internet, come alive and resonate with some in- nate part within. It is an opportuni- ty to reconnect with something lost amidst the daily drudgery of work, traffic and routine. It is, no doubt, one of the reasons so many people cruise or drive to Alaska for vaca- tion, and it is also the reason why so many native Alaskans love to go fishing. Skagway locals have unlimited access to wild places where salm- on teem by the thousands and tro- phy trout are always one cast away. For the visitor with limited time to explore, the options might be few- er. However, what makes Skag- way unique in Southeast is that the wilderness lies just beyond the pe- riphery, and much of it holds lakes, streams and fish. Two of only a handful of lakes holding brook trout in the entire state of Alaska can be found in Skagway. Both Lower and Upper Dewey Lakes were stocked with the hearty, colorful fish in the ear- ly 1980s. Lower Lake, as the lo- cals call it, is a moderately steep 30-minute hike from downtown and its quiet waters are host to an array of natural wonders. Upper Lake is for the more serious hiker, with a strong legs and a lot of extra time. A short drive to Dyea will re- veal the Taiya River, a great place to stalk Dolly Varden in the spring. Further along is the Dyea Flats, where sloughs meander through high grass, alpine lupine and wild purple irises. In the summer these sloughs fill with salmon and be- come something out of a fly fisher- man's Alaska daydream. Not far away is Lost Lake, so named for its difficulty to locate, but a place where the perseverant are rewarded. This is a spot that seems almost primeval, where blueberries grow thick in the fall and rainbow trout are eager to strike throughout the spring, summer and fall. Along the Klondike Highway to the north are an uncountable num- ber of places to wet a line. As the road traverses a narrow slice of British Columbia en route to the Yukon Territory, every single road- side turnout is a potential spot to catch world-class grayling and lake trout. Anywhere along this road is an opportunity for isolation, peace and the unrivaled beauty of sheer mountainsides framing deep glacial 4 photo by Andrew Cremata Andrew's dog, Rufus. (The vice-mayor?) lakes. There are many other places to fish among the throngs of tourists and hustle of the summer season. Many of these places can be quite productive. But for someone desir- ing a more authentic Alaskan expe- rience, or the adventurous angler who seeks more than a notch on the handle of his rod, the chance to ex- perience something unforgettable is not far from where the cruise ships dock. Grab a trail map or ask a local Skagwegian for advice on the best place to fish during your visit. The locals take their fishing seriously, but they're a friendly sort. If you ask nice you might just find your own little slice of fishing paradise. And don't forget to buy a license. Andrew Cremata's award-win- ning column runs monthly each summer in The Skagway News. His book, "Fish This!" is popular in fish circles and the subject of con- stant bar conversation. When An- drew isn't busy writing, he's acting as Skagway's mayor. Or maybe it's the other way around.
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SUMMER 2022 SKAGUAY ALASKAN Page 17 A crash course in Skagway's corsets By Melinda Munson Cori Giacomazzi is in the busi- ness of breasts. Her high quality corsets have been cradling and lift- ing the bosoms of Skagway's work- ing ladies since 2000. Compared to the rest of the coun- try, a disproportionate number of Skagwegians are familiar with the ribbons and stays of a corset as they perform seasonal jobs for a town whose economy is centered around portraying the Yukon Gold Rush of 1896-1899. Tamar Harrison wore a corset for her job as a server and "ma- dame" at the Red Onion Saloon and brothel museum for IO years. She swears corsets are comfortable and is thrilled to be taking a Giacoma- zzi creation home when she moves back to her native United Kingdom. "I feel attractive now, in it. I be- come a different person," Harrison said when Giacomazzi laced her into a black silk corset with red flowers. There was slight grunting and flailing throughout the process but Harrison assured the room she was just being dramatic. Giacomazzi met her first corset in the mid 1990s while attending fash- ion school. Her assignment was to make a reproduction of the original early 1800s piece. To date, she has made around 130 corsets. Giacomazzi said she loves corsets because, "they celebrate the female form." According to the artist, they are not as uncomfortable as peo- ple imagine and the historical idea of an 18-inch waist "was not fact." (Men, too, wore corsets and some of Skagway's male residents have donned the contraptions.) Each of Giacomazzi's corsets are numbered. The structure of the tex- tiles closely resemble their early counterparts, although Giacomazzi adds three inches to account for to- day's taller women. The coutil, or corset cloth, is from England, as is the spring steel which is used for the boning. "These are made correctly," Gi- acomazzi said. They are designed to withstand tugging, pulling, and many, many days and nights of work and play. Some of the patterns are more traditional like Harrison 's red blossomed corset. Another model features Carhartt fabric with pockets. Giacomazzi's last corset show was in 2015, which featured local women as models. "I'm a huge fan of real bodies," Giacomazzi said. The show highlighted a corset entitled, "Look into my eyes," with bold eyes fashioned over the black bodice, complete with eyelashes. Giacomazzi said she designed the piece for her sister, who felt like men were always looking at her chest. A string attached to the eye- lashes made one eye wink. The crowd roared. "They lost it. It was fantastic," Giacomazzi said. Two of Giacom- azzi's corsets, including "Look into my eyes," were displayed at the Skagway Museum. Normally, Giacomazzi works for the Red Onion on costumes, graph- ic design and as museum curator. During to the COVID-19 downturn, she accepted a job at the library. "Museum work translates really well to library work," Giacomazzi said. The artist also runs Lilith Moon which sells handmade clothing con- structed from upcycled materials. She has an Etsy site, but doesn't sell her corsets there. Each corset takes 8-12 hours to construct and prices start at $360. "I love to see a woman discover herself," Giacomazzi said as she told the story of a business woman who ordered a corset to wear dis- creetly under her business suits so she would feel powerful. "Everyone should try one," Gia- comazzi said. Cooper Hays, a recent transplant and new hire at the Red Onion is enjoying her Giacomazzi corset. "It's not ideal for breath support," the singer said, who tried wearing a 1 photo by Melinda Munson Cori Giacomazzi laces up Tamar Harrison in a handmade corset. corset "because it was so beautiful" at a recent show. But Hays said she enjoys wearing the corset at work and it helps her posture. She sees the piece as a symbol of indepen- dence. "It's taking back a Victorian mi- sogynistic restraint," she said. Boreal ARTWORKS AGWAY • Editor's note: This piece was awarded second place for 2021 Small Print Profile by the Alaska Press Club. Read more articles by Melinda Munson, co-editor/owner of The Skagway News at www.skag- waynews.com. Keep up with Skagway with a subscription to THE SKAGWAY NEWS. Subscribe online at www.skagwaynews.com VISIT SKAGWAY'S NEWEST GALLERY! 602 Broadway - Across from the Post Offic LOCAL ART Qiviut -Original Watercolors & Prints - Photography - Jewelry - Pottery - Hand-dyed Yarn - Fur Jewel - Cut-paper Art - and S Artists have been featured in international exhibitions & publications including National Geographic, Audubon, Vogue Japan and Up North, and US Botanic Garden. Aurora Yarns OF ALASKA L ca!.LyOwn & Aqst Operate 98
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Page 18 SKAGUAY ALASKAN WP&YR TRAIN GUIDE By Steve Hites The map of the railroad shows general char- acteristics of the route from Skagway to Ben- nett. Use the numbers to follow points of interest along the way. For further information about your location, railroad milepost markers are set up alongside the tracks at window height and are placed exactly one mile apart. Stations and points of interest also are marked with signs. Now that you're set, enjoy your ride on the "Sce- nic Railway of the World. " 1 (Mile 0) • White Pass Co. Wharf/Broad- way Cruise Ship Dock/Ore Dock. The "Sum- mit Excursion" departs from these docks and the WP&YR depot daily during the summer. Newsies in 1898 costumes usually greet the ships and give the train a send-off. Look for restored Steam Engines No. 73 and 69, which pull some trains from the docks to town, or takes special steam excursions to Bennett and Fraser. Diesel engines will take most trains up the mountain. 2 (Mile 0.3) • Skagway, Alaska, USA / White Pass Depot. "Gateway to the Klondike." A city of 10-20,000 in 1898, Skagway's downtown Historic District retains the flavor of the era. On 2nd Avenue stand the new and old White Pass depots. The new one serves as a com- pany office and passenger terminal. Trains heading to Fraser, Bennett and Carcross leave from here. The old depot was restored by the National Park Service and serves as the Vis- itor Center and headquarters for Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. 3 (Mile 0.5) • Pullen House Grounds. One time "Best Hotel in Alaska," run by the plucky Harriet Pullen who owned packhorses on the White Pass Trail in '98. President Warren G. Harding gave a brief speech here on his Alas- kan tour of 1923. Mrs. Pullen's grave rests above the tracks on the hillside. 4 (Mile 2.0) • White Pass Shops. All narrow gauge repairs and maintenance of engines and rolling stock are done here. New metal shops building replaced old roundhouse de- stroyed in the fire of 1969. Older buildings were constructed by the U.S. Army during its World War II operation of the railroad. S (Mile 2.5) • Gold Rush Cemetery. Outlaw Soapy Smith and town hero Frank Reid, who shot it out in '98, are buried here along with many other stampeders and early day resi- dents. A quick eye will catch the "Largest Gold Nugget in the World" chained to a tree for pro- tection from thieves by early tourist promoter Martin Itjen. 6 (Mile 5.8) • 5A Bridge & Denver Glacier Trail. A favorite local hike for many years, U.S. Forest Service trail leads three miles to an old hunting cabin and then to the bottom of the receding glacier. The caboose serves as a U.S. Forest Service cabin. Railroad crosses East Fork of Skagway River. 7 (Mile 6.9) • Rocky Point. An excellent view down the lower valley to Skagway. The town, wharfs and ships tied in port can be seen in the distance with Mt. Harding and Harding Glacier forming a dramatic backdrop. The Brackett Wagon Road of '98 crossed the railroad in the narrow cut at Milepost 7. 8 (Mile 8.6) • Clifton. Passing siding and sec- tion shack. A section gang lived in a two-story building here for many years. Name derived from large rock ledge overhanging the north switch. Sign below tracks identifies Brackett Road. The "On to Alaska with Buchanan" sign on the far wall of the canyon was painted by a Buchanan Boys tour group from Cleveland, which operated, in the late 1920s and 1930s. Highway skirts the canyon above the rock. 9 (Mile 9.0) • 9A Bridge & Pitchfork Falls. Easy to miss unless you're quick with a cam- era pointing toward the mountainside. A land- mark on the Trail of '98, the falls were once an excursion stopping place. 10 (Mile 10.4) • Black Cross Rock. During blasting of the right-of-way on August 3, 1898, a 100-ton granite slab buried two rail- road workmen. The cross was set on the rock to mark the site, a memorial to the more than 30 men killed during construction of the WP&YR. 11 (Mile 11 S) Bridal Veil Falls. Across the valley, several dozen cataracts can be seen in peak runoff season. The water comes down off the Mt. Cleveland glaciers, goes under the highway, and tumbles down to the Skagway River. 12 (Mile 11.5) • White Pass City. Below sprang a gold rush tent town on the White Pass Trail in '98. Other views of the town site, now covered by brush, can be had from the "High Line." 13 (Mile 12.8) • High Line View. Several good breaks in the trees afford views of the 15 Mile High Line on the opposite mountain- side. Michael Heney, WP&YR construction contractor in '98, called this the "weak link" in the survey route. Blasting out the narrow roadbed required men hanging from ropes off the smooth rock faces, and his grade crossed many wintertime snow slide chutes. Rotary snowplows kept the line open year-round in the age of steam. Now bulldozers, with help from Rotary #1, perform the annual snow re- moval ritual each spring. 14 (Mile 14.1) • Glacier Station. Passing sid- ing and site of former section house. Once two water tanks quenched the thirsts of steam en- gines on the uphill trains here, spaced so as to water a lead locomotive and the "helper" engine at the same time. A U.S. Forest Service hiking trail by the south end of 14A Bridge winds up to Laughton Glacier, where a NFS cabin offers overnight shelter. To reserve the cabin see park rangers at the Visitor Center. Tickets can be purchased for Glacier, but re- member to let the conductor know to stop the train. 15 (Mile 15.0) • Glacier Loop High Line. Enjoy the sensation of "flying by train." View back to Glacier and the tracks below. Look for moose that sometimes feed in the valley. The track here was blasted across solid granite faces. 16 (Mile 16.0) • 15C Trestle & Old Tun- SUMMER 2022 nel. The engineer sounds his whistle to alert passengers to one of the high-point views of the trip. The railroad spans across "Glacier Gorge," a yawning chasm in the cliffside, and then buries into Tunnel Mountain. With all the obstacles in the way, the 1898 construc- tion required only this one tunnel. 17 (Mile 17.0) • Inspiration Point. Have your cameras ready! A lofty look at the Pacific Ocean. On a clear day the unparalleled view sweeps down to Skagway, with Mt. Harding showing across the bay, and the distant Chilk- at Range beyond Haines, some 45 miles away. Excursions in the steam era stopped here for photos and to read the plaque on the monu- ment at trackside dedicated to the 3,000 pack animals that died in the mad stampede of '98. The plaque has been relocated to the depot. 18 (Mile 18.6) • Steel Bridge. When con- structed in 1901, this bridge was the tallest steel cantilever in the world. It replaced a dizzying switchback, which had been neces- sitated by the depths of Cutoff Canyon; trains had to head up the gorge and then back uphill across a timber trestle to the summit. 19 (Mile 18.8) • 19A Bridge/Tunne1 & Trail of '98. New locomotives and heavier tonnage brought about the new bridge and tunnel in 1969. Excellent photo opportunity of train on "horseshoe" curve across the bridge and entering tunnel. Be ready as the train emerg- es into daylight for a view down the upper reaches of Dead Horse Gulch on the Trail of '98. As the track curves out of 19 Tunnel, trav- elers can peer over the cliff side at the visible remains of the White Pass Trail. Primarily a route for horses and pack trains, the Skag- way trail competed against the Chilkoot Trail from Dyea to Lake Bennett in 1897-98. A sign marks the trail and several bleached horse continued on page 21
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SUMMER 2022 whitepGSrail f Whitepassrailtoad wpyr.com 1-800-343-7373 SKAGUAY ALASKAN THE SCENIC RAILWAY OF THE WORLDM Page 19 GATEWAY TO : THE DEPOT Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites - from the comfort of vintage rail cars. Visit the downtown Skagway Depot located on 2nd Ave for excursion timing and tickets. Explore our unique Train Shoppe for a large selection of WP&YR memorabilia, exclusive gifts and souvenirs THE TRAIN SHOPPE Visit us at 201 Second Avenue Hats • DVDs • Clothing • Coffee • Books • Artwork • Train Models Rail Spikes • Kitchenware • Jackets • Calendars
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Page 20 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 AREA ABOUNDS WITH MANY THINGS TO DO TIP: See map on back page to help you find these attractions MUSEUMS & EXHIBITS Corrington Museum of Alaskan History This museum, located at 3rd and Broadway, adjacent to the old Golden North Hotel, tells the history of Alaska from pre-historic times to the present. More than 40 engraved wal- rus tusks and other exhibits detail events that shaped the evolution of the 49th state. Jewell Gardens and Garden City Glass- works This show garden, developed on the site of the historic Clark Farm just across the Skagway River bridge, has grown in recent years to become a showpiece of the "Garden City of Alaska," featuring tours and special events. It also includes a glassworks demo theater/factory and restaurant. Alaska 360's Dredge Town Located along the river about a quarter-mile after crossing the bridge, this attraction features a reas- sembled gold dredge that worked the Sixty- mile District near Dawson City. It first arrived in the north in Skagway in 1941 and was transported on the railroad and steamers to the Klondike. It returned to its home port of Skagway in 1999-2000. Dredge Town will transport you back to the days of 1898 with costumed guides. There's a sled dog demon- stration with time to interact with dogs and puppies, gold panning, a 40-below Zero Expe- rience, a restaurant and gift shop. McCabe Building — Skagway Museum and Archives Located at the east end of 7th Ave- nue, this granite building was constructed in 1899-1900 as a Methodist college-prepara- tory school and was later sold to the federal government in 1901 when legislation provid- ed public schools for Alaska. It served as the U.S. Court House until obtained by the city for a museum and offices in 1956. The U.S. Mar- shal's office, the U.S. Commissioner's office, and the jail occupied the first floor. District Court was held on the second floor in the for- mer chapel of McCabe College. In 2000, the City of Skagway celebrated its centennial at the McCabe Building, which has served as City Hall and Skagway Museum since 1961. After a two-year renovation project, the museum moved back into the first floor and city offic- es into the second floor. Across Spring Street is Veterans Memorial Park with a World War II Quonset hut and a monument dedicated to Skagway servicemen who lost their lives in World War II and the Korean War. Nearby on the 7th Avenue boardwalks are a Gold Rush Diorama and information panels on the Gar- den City of Alaska and Alaska Native culture. Across Pullen Creek on a trail leading south to 6th Avenue is a panel about the old Pullen House, a grand early hotel with nothing left in the woods but its stone fireplace and chimney. SS Princess Sophia Exhibit New in 2018 at the Skagway Museum, this exhibit tells the sto- ry of the SS Princess Sophia, which left Skag- way on Oct. 23, 1918 and then struck Vander- A visiting drag show performs at Dedman Stage in Seven Pastures in 2021. Photo by Gretchen Wehmhoff bilt Reef in a storm early the next morning. It was hoped the ship would float free, but the storm prevented any rescue and she broke apart and sank on Oct. 25. All 350-plus souls aboard, save a dog that swam ashore, perished, making it the worst marine disaster in the Pa- cific Northwest. Skagway Sculpture Garden Located at 8th and Spring, next to Veterans Park, this unique outdoor garden of sculpture and Alaska art was amassed by private collector Bob White and is now available for display and tours. Featuring the works of Sandy Scott and 11 others. Skagway Public Library On 8th and State, read about the library's history from its orga- nization through the Skagway Women's Club to present day. Old Skagway newspapers are available to peruse. Rotating displays in the glass case in entryway. Skagway Centennial Park Located at 1st and Broadway, this park features the city's centennial statue of a Tlingit packer leading a prospector up the trail in 1897, Rotary Snow- plow #1, a time capsule, monuments, orienta- tion signs, covered waiting area, water foun- tain, benches and native plants. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Skagway Historic District, Visitor Cen- ter at 2nd and Broadway Pullen Creek Park & Stream Walk Park between the small boat harbor and the rail- road depot for a sweet area to picnic and fish. King salmon run begins in late May, followed by pinks in August and silvers in September. A continued on page 21 A bust framed by the foliage in the Skagway Sculpture Garden. Photo by Melinda Munson
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SUMMER 2022 SKAGUAY ALASKAN WP&YR TRAIN GUIDE CONTINUED PROM PACE 18 continued from page 18 skulls offer mute testimony to the hardships of the stampede. 20 (Mile 20.4) • White Pass Summit/lnter- national Boundary/Summit Lake. A narrow notch brings the railroad up to White Pass, elevation 2,865 feet above sea level and Skag- way. Two flags fly during the summer on a rise to the west to mark the boundary between the United States' Alaska and Canada's British Co- lumbia. White Pass station once boasted a de- tachment of North West Mounted Police sent to "show the flag" and hold the line on their rule that each stampeder have a ton of gear and supplies before entering the country enough to live unaided in the North for a year. A sliver of B.C. divides Alaska and the Yukon at the top of Southeastern Alaska. The Yukon is about 25 miles down the tracks on Lake Ben- nett. The end of the line is 90 miles away in downtown Whitehorse alongside the Yukon River. The Summit Excursion turns around here at White Pass -- the engines will switch to the back of the train and then take passen- gers back down the mountain. The train to Fraser keeps going. To the west of the railroad is Summit Lake, one of a series of headwater lakes in the Yukon River system. 21 (Mile 23.0) • "Top of the World". Stunted trees, glacial boulder fields and pothole lakes contrast with lush forests on the coast only a few miles away. In winter the White Pass Sum- mit country can be a raging hell or a scene out of "Dr. Zhivago" with vistas of white peaks and valleys. Excellent cross-country skiing. 22 (Mile 28.0) • Fraser, B.C. Long a water stop for the rotary fleet battling the pass, Fra- ser had a balloon loop track in the meadow south of Bernard Lake, and engines and plows were turned here. The old two-story water tank building remains, the last such structure on the railroad. Canadian Customs and a Yu- kon Highways maintenance facility appear to the west. This is the bus transfer point ei- ther the beginning or the end of the rail por- tion of your journey between Skagway and Whitehorse. 23 (Mile 30.5) • Portage. Several fishing cabins and "boxcar homes" line the stream between two lakes. Famous view eastward to- ward Teepee Valley and distant lakes as you ascend Log Cabin Hill. Gold discovered on Lake Atlin in '98 caused a major construction shutdown when rail workers left en mass for the new diggings, taking most of the compa- ny's picks and shovels. Most returned upon discovering the claims were already staked out. 24 (Mile 32.0) Log Cabin. Tracks cross the Klondike Highway at site of Log Cabin, a tent city in '98 and Mounted Police Customs house. At one time a substantial depot and section house were here, but now only two small sheds remain at the south siding, which is the highest point on the railroad at 2,916 feet above sea level. There's no log cabin. Chilkoot Trail hikers walk eight miles up the tracks to Log Cabin from Lake Bennett to catch a ride. 25 (Mile 34.0) Thirty-Four Flats. Meadows here are large and populated with beaver on Page 21 the north end and occasionally by wandering caribou or moose. If you don't see an animal, remember they aren't usually about at the height of the day. 26 (Mile 36.5) Beaver Lake. Beaver lodges can be observed at the lake's edge. Tracks be- gin high above the lake and drop to lakeside at the north end. Visible at Mile 39.0 is Lake Lindeman. A tent city of 10,000 camped here during the gold rush, but the rapids to Lake Bennett wrecked many hastily built boats. 27 (Mile 40.6) Bennett. The winter of '97- '98 found 30,000 stampeders camped here on the shores of the lake, named after New York Herald editor James Gordon Bennett. The ice broke on May 26, 1898, and 7,000 homemade boats set sail down the lake to float down the Yukon to Dawson City. The railroad arrived in June of '99, and after constructing permanent facilities, operated a station/eating house un- til 1982. The old depot still stands, as does the old Bennett Church on the hill above the lake. Trails lead to the church, campsites and old graveyard. This area is now part of Canada's new Chilkoot Trail National Park. The trail ends here. For highlights along the route between Ben- nett and Carcross, consult the "All Aboard" train guide on your rail excursion. While braking on the WP&YR in the 1970s, lo- cal balladeer and historian Steve Hites scribbled this train guide for our "esteemed rag. " Steve has written and recorded many songs about the North and has entertained thousands. He also operates the Skagway Street Car Tour. SO MANY GREAT SIGHTS IN A SMALL ALASKA TOWN continued from page 20 stream walk follows the creek. At one time the school managed a hatchery on the creek, and it was even named Alaska Vocational Educa- tion Program of the Year in 1989. Footbridge to Yakutania Point & Smug- gler's Cove Located south of the airport ter- minal (see map), the bridge spans across the Skagway River to waterfront trails with out- standing views, an exercise course, picnic spots and the cherished Pet Cemetery. Mollie Walsh Park Located at the east end of 6th Avenue, this play park was named for a woman who befriended miners on the trail at Log Cabin. Ex-Iover Jack Newman placed a bust here after Mollie left with another man and met an untimely death. Gold Rush Cemetery & Reid Falls About 1.5 miles from the Historic District, head north on State Street. Look for a sign just be- fore the bridge. Follow signs a half-mile past the railroad shops to the graveyard. A ceme- tery guidebook can be purchased a the local bookstore, which tells the history of the ceme- tery and some of the characters buried there- in, including desperado Soapy Smith and town hero Frank Reid. The falls, named for Reid, are a short walk up the hill. Seven Pastures Park Located just across the Skagway River highway bridge and also reached by the Pat Moore memorial foot- bridge, this large park features two softball fields, a soccer field, a disc golf course, bike- cross area, picnic grounds and the new Ded- man Stage that opened in 2015. Watch for signs about music acts at this outdoor facility. Skagway Overlook This turnoff and plat- form, located at Mile 2 on Dyea Road, affords a wonderful view of the downtown area, water- front and peaks above Skagway. It was origi- nally built by the U.S. Army during World War II. Dyea Unit - Klondike NHP The Dyea val- ley is accessed by an 8-mile mostly gravel road from Skagway. Turnoff is at Mile 2.1 on the highway. Narrow Dyea road is not recom- mended for long or wide vehicles. It passes a turnoff to Yakutania Point (Mile 3) and swings around Nahku or Long Bay (Mile 5), home of the remains of the bark "Canada" (seen at very low tides), and then winds around the point to the old townsite. Dyea was as large as Skag- way during the gold rush, but all that's left now is a cemetery and the scattered remains of a wharf and buildings in the old townsite (see Dyea article page 22). Favorite stops are the Chilkoot Trailhead, Dyea Flats and Slide Cemetery, where 40 graves bear the date of the Palm Sunday ava- lanche on the Chilkoot Trail in 1898. If continuing on the road out to Dyea Flats, stay on marked roadways. There is an infor- mation kiosk about the flats environment with photos of what the area looked like during the gold rush. The Municipality of Skagway con- trols most of the flats from the trees to tide- water. There is a small campground in the trees with a self-registration kiosk. Stay in numbered sites. 907 983-2 270 nd Ave. +CELSIOR CABE 26 ESPRESSO - BAKERY - SANDWICHES
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Page 22 SKAGUAY ALASKAN SUMMER 2022 DYEA HISTORIC BOOMTOWN NOW A PLACE or BEAUTY Skagway bustles today in the summer like the boomtown it was in 1897-1898, but a few miles away, and a couple of valleys over to the northwest, lies a place that local residents and visitors cherish for its quiet beauty. This place is Dyea (pronounced Di-eee) and for a short time it was just as big and booming as old Skagway. Dyea's history as a settlement actually is much older than its ri- val gold rush city. At the foot of the Chilkoot Trail, Dyea was es- tablished several centuries ago as a summer camp by the Tlingit from more populated villages down the inlet near present-day Haines. These Chilkoots built the trail over the mountains to facilitate trade with Yukon and Alaska interior First Nations tribes. Dyea and Taiya are really the same word (Deiyaa) in the Tlingit language, meaning "to pack." The Tlingit's camp on the Taiya saw its first visitors from afar after the United States purchased Alaska in 1867. The U .S. Navy had exerted control in the area and convinced the Tlingit to allow others over the Chilkoot Pass. George Holt was the first documented white man to cross it in 1874, and Alaska Natives began a commercial packing oper- ation a few years later. Westerners John J. Healy and Edgar Wilson es- tablished a trading post on the site in 1884, while other coastal and interior tribes vied for control of the trade. It culminated in a Native packers battle in 1888 that resulted in the deaths of two chiefs and a truce of sorts. More and more white people kept crossing over the next decade. Dyea had a post office by 1896, the year Tagish trader and frequent Dyea visitor Skookum Jim discov- ered the Klondike gold 600 miles from here. Nearly a year later, in July 1897, the first ships of stam- peders arrived, and a city of 10,000 went up among the spruce and hem- lock forest at the edge of a long tid- al flat, connected by two mile-long wharves to the ships in the inlet. During its yearlong heyday, Dyea boasted 150 businesses, including 19 freighting companies, 48 hotels, 47 restaurants, seven real estate agents, and two newspapers. Tav- erns outnumbered churches 39 to 1. But as quickly as it boomed, Dyea suddenly dwindled and almost dis- appeared. Two events played into its doom: an avalanche on the Chilkoot Trail in April 1898 that killed more than 60 stampeders, and the start of construction of the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad out of Skag- way in May of that year. Dyea had boasted its own tramline and a fu- ture railroad of its own, but in 1899 the WP&YR owners bought it and shut it down. Business owners from Dyea flocked to Skagway, taking many of their buildings with them, and by 1900 the city of 10,000 was a mere village again of 250. Three years later, there were just six people living in the Dyea valley. Dyea did not go away. Original homesteaders Emil Klatt and Wil- liam Matthews lived and worked there, and Harriet Pullen ran a dairy farm in the valley for her hotel in Skagway for many years. A few braved the Chilkoot Trail, even scouting it for a film in the 1920s. But what was left of the old gold rush buildings gradually crumbled into busted foundations by the mid- dle of the century. Dyea became a destination again after the valley was connected by an eight-mile-long coastal road from Skagway in 1947. It became a favorite recreation area for local residents, and a few more residents built cabins there. The tourists came too. In the late 1970s, much of the Taiya River valley was absorbed into the Dyea-Chilkoot Unit of the new Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. The historic trail was restored, as were some of the trails through the woods where the Dyea town site once stood. Today, visitors can take a walk- ing tour through the old town site and to the Slide Cemetery, where many of the 1898 avalanche vic- tims were buried. There also are a limited number of commercial tours operating in the valley, but for the most part Dyea is there for the in- dependent traveler to explore and photograph. Wild irises bloom in mid-June on the Dyea Tide Flats, and fire- weed join them in July and August. Currants and cranberries are found as well, when in season, and blue- berries at higher elevations on the Chilkoot and Lost Lake trails or up West Creek Road (remote old log- ging road, 4WD vehicles only). Birding is very popular on the Flats, especially when the eula- chon (pronounced hooligan, a tiny smelt) run in the Taiya in May and during the arrival of pink salmon in Nelson's Slough and other valley streams in August. Eagles, great blue heron and other birds seek the spawning fish along with the occasional grizzly and black bear. Observe bears from a distance and pack bear spray for hiking. Also be mindful of the changing tides, which can catch an unobservant hiker or parked vehicle off guard on the Flats. Adventurers looking for a spot to spend the night and see Dyea at its best in the early light have a few options. The Dyea Flats area, managed by the Municipality of Skagway, has its own campground. Another campground, located in a wooded area along the river at the entrance to Dyea (and closer to the Chilkoot Trailhead), is managed by the National Park Service. For those who want a bed and meal cooked for them, there are nice cabins to rent at the outpost at the entrance to Dyea. The main thing about enjoying Dyea is not to rush through it. Those days were left behind in 1898. SOURCES • "Skagway: City of the New Cen- tury, The True Story of Skagway, Alaska including the White Pass, Dyea and the Chilkoot Trail, " Jeff Brady, ed., Lynn Canal Publishing, 2013, 2019. • "Dyea, Alaska: The Rise and Fall of a Klondike Gold Rush Town, " M J. Kirchhoff, 2012. • "Legacy of the Gold Rush: An Administrative History of Klond- ike Gold Rush National Historical Park, " Frank Norris, 1996. Jeff Brady is an author/historian, editor/publisher and bookstore own- er who writes from his cabin in Dyea. Subscribe to the The Skagway News www.skagwaynews.com Dyea, a study in contrasts. Remnants of abandoned buildings and boats can be seen from a bluff after the gold rush, and the quiet of the serene beauty of the tidal flats today. -USGS/JB
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SUMMER 2022 FREEO SKAGUAY ALASKAN City Services Guide Page 23 PHONES: Skagway has good cell service in town but reception is spotty on the Dyea Road and cuts out a mile up the Klondike Highway. There is service in all Yukon towns. PUBLIC RESTROOMS: located on Congress way Sea walk, at Na- tional Park Service and AB Hall Visitor Centers, Mascot Saloon, Mollie Walsh Park, Pullen Park, Skagway Bazaar, ferry terminal and small boat harbor parking lot. MEDICAL/CLINIC: Skagway's Dahl Memorial Clinic is located at the Rasmuson Health Center at 14th and Broadway, 907-983-2255. Clin- ic open weekdays, 8 a.m. to 5p.m. For after-hours medical emergencies call 911 , or the on-duty provider at 907-983-2025. POLICE: Emergency phone 911 or 907-983-2232 for business. Lo- cated in Public Safety Building, 18th and State. FIRE/AMBULANCE: Emergency phone 911 or 907-983-2300 for business. Located in Public Safety Building 18th and State. COUNSELING: Counseling services are located on the west side of the Rasmuson Health Center at 14th and State. Call 907-983-2255. SKAGWAY CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU: Headquar- tered on Broadway in the Arctic Brotherhood Hall. Address correspon- dence to Tourism Director, P.O. Box 1029, Skagway, AK 99840; phone 907-983-2854; email: [email protected]; website: www.skag- way.com SKAGWAY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: Phone 907-983-1898; P.O. Box 194, Skagway, AK 99840; [email protected]. Website: www.skagwaychamber.org KLONDIKE GOLD RUSH NATIONAL PARK: Located at 2nd & Broadway. Visitor Center open daily, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. in the summer. Call 907-983-2921 or write for brochure: P.O. Box 517, Skagway, AK 99840; www.nps.gov/klgo. SKAGWAY TRADITIONAL COUNCIL: Office in Tribal Commu- nity Center on Broadway and I lth. Phone 907-983-3615, website: www. skagwaytraditional.org NEWS: The Skagway News, published twice monthly year-round (monthly in January), is sold at Skaguay News Depot, Fairway Market and Family Fuel. Out of town subscriptions $45/yea. Call 907-983-2354, or write to P.O. Box 244, Skagway AK 99840-0498. Online edition at: www.skagwaynews.com. Daily papers sold at the News Depot. RADIO/TV: KHNS-FM: 91.9 FM, public radio for Haines-Skagway, also available online at www.khns.org; KIN Y-FM: 104.7 FM radio, Ju- neau; TV: 1 public, 35 cable channels, hundreds more via satellite dish. SKAGWAY PUBLIC LIBRARY: located at 8th and State. open weekdays, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., weekends, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. Watch for special programs. Wi-Fi is available outside of the library daily from IO a.m. to 10 p.m. ASSEMBLY OF GOD Church: Located at 8th and State. Sunday morning service at 11 a.m., Sunday night prayer at 6 p.m. Bible study at 6 p.m., Wednesdays. Call 907-983-2350. CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER DAY SAINTS: Located at 11th and State. Sunday Sacrament Meeting at 10 a.m. Call 1-867-332-1299. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH: Located at 5th and Main. Sun- day service, Sunday night prayer and women 's prayer circle schedule to be determined; www.fpcskagway.org. Call 907-983-2260. ST. THERESE CATHOLIC CHURCH: Located at 9th and State. Mass celebrated on Sundays at 3 p.m. and 7 p.m., and Mondays and Tuesdays at 12:10 pm. Call 907-983-2271. B.P.O.E. ELKS LODGE #431: Located at 6th and State. Meets sec- ond and fourth Thursdays at 7:30 p.m. Club room open for members at noon on weekdays and 11 a.m. on weekends. Emblem Club #111 meets third Thursday at 7 p.m. Call 907-983-2235. F.O.E. EAGLES AERIE & AUXILIARY #25: Located at 6th & Broadway. Aerie meets first and third Wednesday at 7:30 p.m. Auxiliary meets second and fourth Tuesdays at 7 p.m. Club room open daily for members at 11 a.m. Call 907-983-2234. WHITE PASS LODGE #1 F. & A.M.: Located on 4th near Broad- way. Meets first Saturdays at 12 p.m. 2022 Alaska Frontier Mint "Gold Rush" Coin Collection Just for trying on a jewelry item. Limit one per family. Collect at MINER'S GEMS Skagway Miner's Gems The Bright 41 Yellow Building 3RD AVENUE Eagle Store #1 Store #4 Angler Skagway Lumberjack Store #2 Miner Store #5 Sea Plane Store #3 Bear Store #6 Whale Tail 3RD AVENUE tarbucks no Big Dipper Back of Coin 26 2ND AVENUE 2ND AVENUE 23 use! Train Depot Miner's Gems O Miner's Gems Miner's Gems 200 2nd Ave. 3rd & Broadway 270 2nd Ave. The Bright Yellotv Bldg. Next to Dian-tonds Int'l. In Starbucks 9 STOPS 9 COINS See map on right for locations Stores I through 6 in Ketchikan and Juneau FREEA WiFi Stay connected with your loved ones. FREE DRINK Non-alcoholic drink. With this coupon. Limit one coupon per person. Just for trying on our Ammolite Pieces.
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Page 24 POINTS OF INTEREST S S.M.A.R.T City Transit dock pickup points 1. Railroad Dock (old Moore's Wharf) 2. Alaska Marine Highway Ferry Dock 3. Broadway Dock - Start Of Pullen Ck. Streamwalk 4. Ore Dock & AML Barge Ramp 5. Fuel and Ore Terminals (Industrial area) 7. Skagway Airport Terminal 8. Small Boat Harbor I I. Pullen Pond Park & continuation Of Pullen Creek Streamwalk - salmon interpretive signs 12. Centennial Statue & Park, Rotary Plow #1, and original WP&YR Engine #52 13. Soapy vs. Reid shootout monument, July 8, 1898 20. Martin Itjen House 66. Meyer Bldg./YMCA 89. Peniel Mission 95. Wells Fargo Bank Alaska -1916 Bank of Alaska 96. U.s. Post Office - Zip 99840 99. Mollie Walsh Park - exhibits, play area, restrooms 100. Skagway City Hall & Museum 105. Veterans Park 114. Tennis court at school 115. Skagway Recreation Center - gym, workout rooms, skate park (13th & Main St.) 116. State Street / Klondike Hwy. to Gold Rush Cem- etery/Reid Falls (take right before river bridge, .5 mile to graveyard/falls), Seventh Pasture Park and Dedman Outdoor Stage (just over bridge), Dyea/Chilkoot Trail (9 miles On Dyea Rd.), and Canada's BC & Yukon Territory (14.5 miles to border- see pages 31-32) 117. Broadway St. to Hanousek Park 119. Trail to Dewey Lakes, Icy Lake, Upper Reid Falls, Sturgill 's Landing (maps at visitor centers) 121. Footbridge across Skagway River to Yakutania Point Park, Smuggler's Cove & AB Mtn. Trail. VISITOR CENTERS & INFO. 21. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Visitor Center exhibits, theater, rest rooms 31. Muni. Of Skagway Visitor Center - A.B. Hall 49. The Pantheon - Jr. Ranger Activity Center (NPS) 87. Chilkoot Trail Center (restored Boss Bakery bldg.) 91. Skagway Chamber Of Commerce office 109. Skagway Public Library 112. Skagway Development Corp. office 117. Taiya Inlet Watershed Council & Skagway Tribal Center (l lth & Broadway) EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES DIAL 911 FOR EMERGENCY 116. Skagway Police and Fire/EMS/SAR depts. in Skagway Public Safety building (18th & State) 117. Dahl Memorial Clinic at EA & Jenny Rasmuson Community Health Center ( 14th and Broadway) 117. Lynn Canal Community Counseling (clinic bldg.) MUSEUMS & EXHIBITS 18. Jeff. Smiths Parlor Museum (NPS) 21. Klondike Gold Rush Museum (by visitor center) 33. Corrington History Alaska Scrimshaw Museum (s. side Of Old Golden North Hotel) 37. Mascot Saloon exhibit (NPS) 52. First Bloom Native Plants Garden (NPS) 85. William & Ben Moore Cabin & Homestead (NPS) 100. Skagway Museum & Archives / McCabe Bldg. II l. Skagway Sculpture Garden HOTELS, MOTELS, B&BS RV PARKS 110. At the White House Bed & Breakfast RESTAURANTS & FOOD 9. Skagway Fish Company 26. Excelsior Cafe 29. The Red Onion Saloon 42. Klondike Doughboy 43. Glacial Coffeehouse 54b. Station Bar and Grill 59a. Skagway Brewing 70. Kone Kompany 77. Lucy's Bakery BARS - CLUBS - LIQUOR STORES MARIJUANA RETAILER 17. Klondike Brewing Company 27. Alaska Liquor Store 29. The Red Onion Saloon 33a. Remedy Shoppe 54a. Station Bar and Grill 54a. Happy Endings Saloon 59a. Skagway Brewing 92. Elks B.P.O.E. #431 103. Olivia's Bistro at the Skagway Inn SKAGUAY ALASKAN GIFTS - JEWELRY - CURIOS 23/26/41 Miner's Gems 23. Gold Rush Gifts 25. Skagway Mining co• 28. Richter's 33. Corrington 's 71. Klothes Rush Gifts ALASKA'S 82. A Fine Line Alaskan Gifts 83. Back Alley Rock Shop 83. Rie LaMarr - Author 98. Boreal Artworks 101. Skagway Outlet Store 104a & 104c. Alaska Shoppe 106a. Alaska Knife & Ulu I I I. Skagway Sculpture Garden GALLERIES - FINE ART - ANTIQUES 82. A Fine Line Alaskan Gifts 86a. Alaska Artworks 102a. BearHead Photography I I I. Skagway Sculpture Garden GROCERY - PRODUCE - FISH FLOWERS 53. AC Fairway Market - Groceries CLOTHING STORES 14. Alaska Shirt Company 50. The Mountain Shop 71. Klothes Rush 73. Duff's Backcountry Outfitters 104a & 104c.Alaska Shoppe OUTFITTERS - SPORTING GOODS HARDWARE - BUILDING SUPPLIES 14 113 112 102 106 98 88 b SUMMER 2022 18 111 105 100 89 event t 0 econ 5 110 ve. 15 Terminal 109 91 53 i 4 104 103 96 50. The Mountain Shop / Packer Expeditions 59. Skagway Ace Hardware 73. Duff's Backcountry Outfitters 75. Sockeye Cycle co. BOOKS - NEWS - MUSIC 35. Skaguay News Depot & Books and Lynn Canal Publishing 35. The Skagway News office (upstairs) 115. KHNS - Skagway studio in Rec. Center. INTERNET - PHOTO - VIDEO ELECTRONICS 74. Radio Shack / Grizzly's General AIR TOURS & CHARTERS 6. Temsco Helicopters (heliport) 7. Alaska Seaplanes (airport terminal) RAIL - BUS - AND LAND TOURS 22. White Pass & Yukon Route RR Depot 29. Red Onion Saloon 50. Packer Expeditions / Mountain Shop 75. Sockeye Cycle Bicycle Tours WATER TOURS & CHARTERS 8a. Alaska Fjordlines (Embarks from small boat harbor - See ad on 6 for ticket sale locations) VEHICLE & BIKE RENTALS 75. Sockeye Cycle - Bike Rentals LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 88. Days of '98 Show with Soapy Smith (Eagles Hall Theater) The Alaskan makes a great souvenir. If you don't take it home with you, PLEASE PASS IT ON OR RECYCLE. 92 at 82 72 71 76 i 10 57 49 50 64 63 62 59a58 52 47 46 39b 39a 121 44 3 42 41 33 33 32 1617 8 20 14 .i BROADWAY 3 DOCK 41 39c 22 •-119 a RAILROAD DOCK 2 5 7 8 8 3 7 9 8 2 2 5 5 8 9 i i i ORE DOCK AMH 2 FERRY DOCK Downtown Map & ight 0 2022 Taiya Communications, LLC Advertising Directory
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